Norcal.

I hadn't had any either until very recently. Went from the same setup that had been working to massive traction rolls.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYcza51jaeg

hopefully that video works, but I'm referring to that quick left turn right in front of the camera, then the subsequent right hand. i can't get my car to reliably land and keep the speed through the turn.

Running treads, not slicks and using StickyKicks tire additive (yellow mostly).

good tips here - i will give them a try next practice later in the week.

Quick question.

How much taller is the tall rear tower over the standard b6 one.

Cheers

I think it's 4mm because you go from a 27 to 31mm rear shock body when you add it.

Logical thinking captain.

Guess I won't bother with the long tower as I've already raised the gearbox 2mm.

Cheers

What are the Yatabe equivalent springs to Associated front purple 4.20 and rear blue 2.30?

Front is the orange (yokyas-700) at 4.6 or red (yokyas-800) at 3.83
Rear would be green (yokyas-1050) at 2.71 - I believe that is the softest for rear

Which Yatabe springs is everyone running F&R on Astroturf?

Hopefully someone can get me a quick answer but what should I start out with for the front and rear sway bar? Blue rear gray front?

Just installed. These bars don't seem thick enough. When I comPress one arm the other side doesn't move at all. Is it still working properly even if I can't see the other arm moving?

When installing swaybars (let's say rears for example)
First step:build bar links symmetrical, measure with calipers. I put a 1 mm shim in between the two plastic ball ends to help in keeping them similar in length.

Second step: would be to make sure the bar is centered in the rear bulkhead using the supplied blue collar.

Third step: adjust set screws to remove excessive play in bulkhead making sure to not over tighten.

Fourth step: slide bar into sway bar links making sure each end is even with the blue collar opening.. one side sticking out more than the other will effect how the bar works.

Check if sway bar is working properly by slowly moving one arm up
(I.e right arm). Take notice how high you moved the (right) arm up when the opposite arm moves. So for example let's say you raised the right arm up 10mm to make left arm move. You then raise left arm, if it's 10 mm when the right arm moves you have sway bars working properly.

This should be done without shocks connected as well as wheels removed .. if the bars are off it's typically the links from bar to arm that are different lengths

Ya I got all that. The arms do move when the shocks are disconnected. I meant the opposite arm doesn't move when the car is all put back together. It just must be that the sway bar isn't thick enough. I used the 1.4mm in the rear. On my X-ray I have 1.8mm bars. I didn't look to see if AE made thicker bars. I assume they don't or they would have included them in the kit

The arm will not raise when everything is connected

any word on a factory team B6 on the horizon?

some of the B6's i see on carpet tracks are seriously loaded with stuff to the point it seems warranted, especially for the laydown. not talking about the bling over the top items.r

stuff like:
hard rails
67mm dogbones...new outdrives, aluminum hub (or a nylon hub for 67mm)
shims to raise bearbox
shims to move front bulkhead lower
+2mm rear tower
bigger rear shock bodies
alum D block

B64 sway bars work and are thicker

I am setting up my car for asstroturf and I see a lot of setups where they
run the Yatabe red fr & green rear I have also seen setups with yellows up front but the greens seem to be the standard for the rear on turf.

I could not get over how much resistance was in my gear diff. about as much as an 1/8 with 2000+.I tried thin oil, different shims and orings. Nothing helped.I finally decided to remove orings. Just a touch of oil on internal gears. Black grease on outdrives. It's butter smooth and free. Call it the poor mans ball diff. But whatever. Had to share. Gonna make my buggy turn a ton better. Cheers