Originally Posted by ray_munday (Post 14864961)

Check your alloy rear camber mount isn't bent. I have seen that cause different camber left/right. Also, the camber mount keys into the black rear bulkhead piece, but they don't key into the d block or transmission. So if you have a bent screw or elongated hole, the mount will not be sitting perfectly square.

Ray

Originally Posted by eper (Post 14865004)

Are you checking the camber with set up wheels or with tires. Tires are usually out of round

Originally Posted by Mason (Post 14865205)

Check your camber in 3 different spots on the wheels as wheels, and perhaps the tire glue job, makes things not so straight :) If the tires aren't new, check to make sure you haven't had a hard landing and gave the ole wheel a whack. I have had some that twisted the axle hole out of square. You could tell by the wheel ribs being twisted/bent.

Other things.. check your ride height at all 4 arms (inside towards the middle of the car). Set your ride height by adjusting the spring collars. Do not worry about the measuring collar distance. No 2 springs are exactly the same.
Are you running the same mounting options on the camber links (position/height)?
What about hub/caster inserts? double check they are the same and inserted the same.
Spring cups?
Is anything bent/cracked? shock towers, shock mount screws, camber mounts, arm mounts..
If you can't find anything else its time to look at the chassis being warped.

Originally Posted by Jason B (Post 14865178)

I think part of the reason is that the base setup (which includes the stand-up tranny) is pretty tame. Compounding the problem is that people take that base setup and then throw a laydown in because it's what everyone else is doing, and they think it will provide instant steering (at least that's what *I* was hoping hehe).

What I found was that if you throw the laydown in without making any other changes, you're still going to have understeer (particularly mid-corner), and you're going to be severely lacking rear bite on corner exit. And this assumes you're running your battery 2F (as far rearward as it will go), which requires running without the waterfall. I'm sure most people aren't doing that, so the battery is being run further forward, creating even more issues given that they're still running the kit setup. I didn't try that personally, but I imagine it would fishtail like an untuned OG B4 on an oil slick.

The B6D is a killer kit, but IMO if you're running indoor clay, the hot ticket is:

- 1.5 degrees antisquat (preferrably with the 25g C block)
- laydown tranny
- rear hubs forward
- front gray springs + 32.5wt

There are some other changes that I made for personal taste, but these four will get you a solid planted car with great steering. I wish I could tell you the 25g is or isn't all that important, but I made the 1.5 a/s change when I installed the 25g C block... sorry :blush: . I also have the alum D block installed, but I'm running it center... so right now it's just $15 bling.

Originally Posted by radioctrlhead (Post 14865277)

Front gray springs from the white implies stiffer front end, which will keep more weight to the rear but sacrifice steering. It doesn't' push too bad with gray springs?

Originally Posted by radioctrlhead (Post 14865276)

I definitely will check this. Nothing seemed out of wack here and i've removed it many times but I will check that block and reinspect.



I am using wheels and tires that are brand new. The tires aren't even glued yet but when i spin them they are extremely true.




I have checked everything here. the wheels are brand new. I will go through everything else and ensure nothing i bent but I have only been on the track 1 or two times with no major crashes unless things bend easily on this car... I am suspecting it may be what Ray is suggesting or the springs are just not matched (yokomo greens). The funny thing is when i built it everything was true and square and I have an eye for these things so the details are all being checked.

Something is bent or broken. but what....

Originally Posted by Jason B (Post 14865080)

Bump stear is kit setup. Only steering adjustment is 1mm on the steering rack.



Kit setup (A)



Gray isn't necessarily "better" than white, but they're more appropriate for my track IMO. I saw most people using them on similar surfaces (med-high bite indoor clay), so I tried them. They're creating excellent corner-entry steering, and they help get the weight back to the rear on corner-exit. Win/win.



With the setup that I posted, it had the tightest turning radius I've ever put on a car. Gobs of steering. The only thing I didn't like was that the rear end was getting a little unsettled on less-than-perfect landings, and the car would dart around a bit. So I could turn a hero lap, but only once or twice over the course of 10 minutes. I put the rear shock back to the #2 position, and everything is exactly where I want it. It's super easy to drive, has great steering, and the rear end is planted as long as you're not mangling throttle+steering input.

Here's an updated setup. At this point, I don't feel like there's really anything else for me to chase on the car for my home track. It's the easiest 2WD I've driven, it generates stupid corner speed, handles 180's great, and is extremely predictable.

Originally Posted by rgrg2 (Post 14865351)

Any spacers for the axle height?

Originally Posted by Jason B (Post 14865369)

It's all on the setup sheet (except for the removal of the waterfall). Axle height is 0.

Originally Posted by Scott R (Post 14865301)

Any chance you have a Hub hinge pin insert upside down?

Originally Posted by rgrg2 (Post 14865376)

I saw it shows 0, but on the setup sheet the pic shows the 2mm on top and 1mm on bottom. Is that 0, or do you not have any spacers at all there? I've also seen people have the 1mm on top and 2mm on bottom

Thanks

Originally Posted by Jason B (Post 14865398)

IOW, the axle height just gives you a way to lower the ride height without exhausting the available pre-load on the shock springs. It might have other effects, but to my knowledge that's its main purpose.

Originally Posted by radioctrlhead (Post 14865905)

Update.. couldn't figure out why one side camber is greater than the other. I will continue to try and reassess.

On a side note. racing at med grip clay and made a few changes that really woke this car up from the dead that I just couldn't believe was happening:

Narrow track, 3* toe, 2* anti squat. so 1* pill in (d) and 1* pill in and up (C)
rear hub position "forward"
1 mm bump steer, 1mm ackerman, type 1

shocks: 32 front (ae white), 27 rear (yokomo green)

racing at OCRC. I will create a set up sheet shortly because this car is on rails.

Originally Posted by radioctrlhead (Post 14865905)

Update.. couldn't figure out why one side camber is greater than the other. I will continue to try and reassess.

On a side note. racing at med grip clay and made a few changes that really woke this car up from the dead that I just couldn't believe was happening:

Narrow track, 3* toe, 2* anti squat. so 1* pill in (d) and 1* pill in and up (C)
rear hub position "forward"
1 mm bump steer, 1mm ackerman, type 1

shocks: 32 front (ae white), 27 rear (yokomo green)

racing at OCRC. I will create a set up sheet shortly because this car is on rails.

Originally Posted by rgrg2 (Post 14866098)

Do you run stock or mod at OCRC? I run stock, so getting a detailed, complete setup would be great, either way. I don't get many chances to get to the track, so when I do, i'd rather be on the track instead of in the pits wrenching and trying to figure out what to do next. I've spent way too much time doing that already. I want to come race there instead of just practicing, but not having the car dialed in is not as fun. Maybe you can also include your radio and esc settings.

Thanks