Yep. All mounting pieces are where they should be with no pre-bendiness. It’s just not a great design. I’ll make some temporary fixes and order up some bling first chance I get.

I agree, I got the B6 because of parts availability, but it has been extremely hard to find parts lately. I heard something about Associated changing distributors or something, but it's hard to run a car with outdrives as worn out as mine are...

My son broke 2 front towers in 1 night of racing. I ordered an aluminum tower. Till it comes in I flip flopped his front towers and doubled them. Added longer stews. Used ca and baking soda. Maybe this pic can help others continue racing.

I have this set from mip as soon as my current ae outdrives wear out. With this set you replace the gold rollers instead of outdrives. Looks like a better solution long term.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/mip-ass...p16040/p531932

Yeah that's what i thought too until everyone who ran them at my turf track snapped the outdrives in qualifiers and A-mains. With extremely high traction, and a lot of power with a lockout on 17.5 those will break. The stock ones never break, at least that i know of.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...a6d24d163b.png

And that's not including the guys at my track who break the outdrives. This is a very common and unnacceptable problem with the pucks. Unless they come out with an updated design or solution then i will never be buying them.

I was finally able to find some of the outdrives in stock. RC Madness still have about 9 in stock. And I have heard the same thing about the MIP roller pucks, I would personally only run the MIP products with a stock motor.

I am thinking about getting a b6 to replace my worn out b5m but am a bit up in the air about it. I race on a fairly small indoor carpet track with tight 180 corners. I have seen first hand that the gull wing arms and front tower tend to make the car push really bad entering a corner and make it hard to go fast on the track. Is this something that is tunable that doesn't require you to buy the flat arms and narrow tower? I have considered getting the d for that reason but am unsure. Would rather not spend extra to get the best of both worlds.

I would say that the B6 as is the way to go. If you get the d you would have to buy the laydown tranny and the gear diff separately. I have had success tuning in more steering by adjusting the roll center and reducing the size of the washers on the Ackerman plate and the steering rack.

I was more or less set on getting the carpet version. It only makes sense really. A few guys have just been having issues with them in the steering department since our track doesn't have tons of traction. I would prefer the car to almost pivot but I'm sure I could make it work.

i have one of the early kits and the hold down clamp is really soft you can screw down the nuts and it doesnt even feel like theyve touched the hold down and its just bending

I've just built and installed the transmission on my new B6 but there is a slight bind in the tranny, only when both tranny cases are put together. Screws are not overtightened, besides it also happens when I just hold them together by hand.. I've verified that I installed everything correctly about 10 times and I inspected the insides of the cases and they don't have any dodgy spots... any ideas?

Not true I’ve been running them on my turf car since they 1st came out matter of fact only on my second set of inserts. U need to make sure they stay tight and the you maintain your car. And I run mod on a very high bite surface

Be sure to check between all the the teeth on all the gears for anything the wouldhamper smooth rotation after all that is checked also check all bearings spin free and that they are seated in their positions all the way hopefully that will get you spinning freely. Also I like to hook tranny to a drill and run it in that way so I can easily open it up and look for other ways to free it up and get it operating as smoothly as possible

I want to put together a 4 gear trans for our B6D, since we run on a hard packed, but fairly bumpy track that can get dusty in spots, especially turns.

Does anyone know if the 3 gear motor plate will work backwards on the 4 gear case? I have to order the parts and wondering if anything I already have might work.