649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
|
02-13-2017, 07:52 AM
#5686
Tech Elite
iTrader: (89)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: " The World's Most Famous Beach "
Posts: 2,308
Trader Rating: 89 (100%+)
set up
I need some help guys. My buggy drives ok with the laydown. I feel like it drove GREAT with the stand up. I think I might be switching back, but before I do, I would like to see if I can get this car the way I want.
I'm having a high speed push, getting off the straight away with occasional traction roll. At low speed in the 180's its turning too fast or over steering. I also don't feel it has enough grip or stable enough when I first enter the straight. Our straight away is bumpy and If I hit the wrong spot I can lose control half way down.
Camber links are in the kit position with 2mm inside front and back
Shocks are
Front: Gray spring, middle top, outside bottom 32.5 w/ 1.6
Rear: Green Spring, Middle top, inside bottom 30 w/ 1.7
Short ends front and rear
21mm ride height front and rear.
Shocks on rear tower.
Running Brass C Block, plastic D block with 3.5 toe and 1 anti squat. Have tried 3/1 and I don't see any difference here.
Rest of the car is kit setup.
High bite clay, sometimes bumpy. Your help is appreciated, thanks.
I'm having a high speed push, getting off the straight away with occasional traction roll. At low speed in the 180's its turning too fast or over steering. I also don't feel it has enough grip or stable enough when I first enter the straight. Our straight away is bumpy and If I hit the wrong spot I can lose control half way down.
Camber links are in the kit position with 2mm inside front and back
Shocks are
Front: Gray spring, middle top, outside bottom 32.5 w/ 1.6
Rear: Green Spring, Middle top, inside bottom 30 w/ 1.7
Short ends front and rear
21mm ride height front and rear.
Shocks on rear tower.
Running Brass C Block, plastic D block with 3.5 toe and 1 anti squat. Have tried 3/1 and I don't see any difference here.
Rest of the car is kit setup.
High bite clay, sometimes bumpy. Your help is appreciated, thanks.
Hi,
I would move the shocks to the front of the tower with short shock ends mounted on the inner hole of the rear arm . Go to the gull front end arms/tower also space the hubs according to the B6 manual.
Also try going back to center position on rear pills and adjust according.
I run on high bite bump clay with primes and my pills are .5 up from center on brass 25g c mount and .5 out from center on aluminum rear D mount and I may even go .5 up and out from center on the c mount. when I tried to run a short track with in the rear the car was unstable out of the turns. Also 1 to 2mm on the inner rear ball stud. I also tried running 22g of weight under the battery this week and liked it a lot.
Good Luck
02-13-2017, 07:55 AM
#5687
on set-up up sheets, on the stock AE hub when it says +3, is that with the hole all the way up or down. also when it comes to the front end steering hat sleeves is +3 with the larger hat on bottom or top
02-13-2017, 08:08 AM
#5688
0 to +3 is in reference to axle height. So hole down in the rear insert moves the axle up to +3, same thing in the front large insert in the bottom is +3 on the B6D and +2 on the B6 because they have different inserts.
02-13-2017, 08:10 AM
#5689
02-13-2017, 08:42 AM
#5690
So far so good on the build... curious as to why they included a 72 spur specifically for stock, but then their gearing chart recommends 69/31.
02-13-2017, 04:32 PM
#5691
So.. I noticed something odd after completing my B6D build. I had to reduce the steering end points on my (Futuba 4PL) transmitter by 50%. So instead of being set at (L) 100/100 (R) for my old B5m they are now set to 50/50 (actually they were set to 95/95 before to avoid the chance of binding the servo, but you get the idea). Anything higher than (about) 50/50 and the servo now binds as the wheels are turned to their limits. Yet it doesn't seem like I lost any steering. Well, I haven't had it on the track yet, but *looks* like tires seem turned to maximum. There is no binding or clearance issues in the steering rack anywhere, it's simply pushing the wheel hubs to their limit up against the arms as would be expected at maximum steering throw. Does this mean in the B6D the servo throw to accomplish the same amount of steering before has been cut in half..?
02-13-2017, 06:20 PM
#5692
Check your toe and steering links. Did you mess with Dual Rate at all? Is DR turned all the way up on your B5M? I wouldn't worry about it at all just make sure everything is correct.
02-13-2017, 07:07 PM
#5693
D/R is set to 100 as normal. I dunno. I had not run the B5m in a while before I harvested the electronics from it, so there's no telling if I did something somehow on the transmitter or something to cause this to happen before this. I'm not about to go through all the work of moving the electronics back to the B5m just to find out though. I adjusted the toe to 0 using a setup station earlier, the links seem ok, nothing outside of normal length/adjustment range.
02-13-2017, 07:31 PM
#5694
Well there is a huge design difference in the B5 and the B6 as far as steering goes. I dont remember the servo settings but I do know that my servo is not as strong in the B6 as it was in the B5 and that is because of the way the steering is set up. On the B5 the pivot point is in between the servo and the turnbuckles, on the B6 the turnbuckles are in between the servo and the pivot point, so travel has to be different between the two.
Having said that, as long as you are getting equal throw left to right and you are maxing out the steering at the knuckles what does it matter what the radio settings are?
Having said that, as long as you are getting equal throw left to right and you are maxing out the steering at the knuckles what does it matter what the radio settings are?
02-13-2017, 07:52 PM
#5695
Tech Apprentice
battery placement
Where is the proper place to put the shorty battery.on b6d.all way back or in the middle thanks.
02-13-2017, 08:29 PM
#5696
Boy, I feel dumb. Upon a closer look comparing to the manual I had the front wheel hubs installed reversed. Oops. I'm still limited to about 80/80 on my steering end points but I think it will be alright. I went ahead and reset the links back to manual spec lengths and will recheck/calibrate camber and toe tomorrow.
02-13-2017, 08:46 PM
#5697
02-13-2017, 10:29 PM
#5698
Motor mounting
Anybody else have trouble putting in the bottom motor mount screw with the laydown tranny? I guess using an L shaped hex wrench would work, but using a straight one is a bit difficult.
The laydown tranny also makes it a bit harder to get the spur gear off.
The arm mount inserts and hub inserts are still a bit confusing also
The laydown tranny also makes it a bit harder to get the spur gear off.
The arm mount inserts and hub inserts are still a bit confusing also
02-13-2017, 11:58 PM
#5700
Which version did you use? I used the lay down version and filed it down to clear my motor using the smallest pinion/spur combination I would use as a guide to how much to remove.
I think I only lost 3-4 grams by filing it down.
If your gonna ask why I didn't dremel it ( like everyone else does) . I have steadier hands with the file. Haha