649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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09-21-2016, 12:14 PM
#3331
First time trying the AE screws when I built my B6d. Never again. Complete trash.
09-21-2016, 12:16 PM
#3332
The posting like a Pro part wasn't directed at you bud
Fact is, the B6 cars are light enough out of the box with standard electronics that most are under legal weight as it is. There's little to no need to run Ti screws for the sole purpose of saving a couple grams on the scale.
Fact is, the B6 cars are light enough out of the box with standard electronics that most are under legal weight as it is. There's little to no need to run Ti screws for the sole purpose of saving a couple grams on the scale.
. The car is definitely lightweight. I add a good amount to mine. Racing outdoors my car weighs in about 1570g and gets better each time out.
09-21-2016, 12:26 PM
#3335
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,483
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
I had the associated and protek kits on some of my 5 series cars...price was decent but the quality could have been better. I am using the Schelle now and have had zero issues with them. I think we would all like to have Lunsford but I also like to eat and have a roof over me.
09-21-2016, 12:43 PM
#3338
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,483
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
09-21-2016, 04:37 PM
#3339
doing it that way i did not strip a single screw and the heads all look new.
09-21-2016, 07:19 PM
#3343
09-21-2016, 08:22 PM
#3345
Tech Regular