649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
|
09-09-2016, 07:23 PM
#3137
Tech Regular
Hey gents,
3.0 or 2.5 degrees rear toe on a B6 running med-high bite clay? Pretty sure I had 2.5 when I put it together for carpet racing. But I think I might need the extra toe to get forward bite on dirt?
3.0 or 2.5 degrees rear toe on a B6 running med-high bite clay? Pretty sure I had 2.5 when I put it together for carpet racing. But I think I might need the extra toe to get forward bite on dirt?
09-09-2016, 08:00 PM
#3138
These Schumacher Low Profile Stagger fronts are annoying to mount on the JConcepts Slim front wheels.
The tires have the lip of the bead made to work with standard width rims basically it feels like.
Does anyone cut back the bead lip on them?
The tires have the lip of the bead made to work with standard width rims basically it feels like.
Does anyone cut back the bead lip on them?
09-09-2016, 08:03 PM
#3139
What's the most aggressive steering setup you can get on a b6d Laydown on medium bite clay (Ocrc). Coming from a laydown xb2 so looking for max steering. Any tips on setup (bushings etc). Thx!
09-09-2016, 09:01 PM
#3140
Flat arms, with the aluminum steering rack/assembly....I was running all the aluminum stuff, but went back to stock because it was too twitchy
09-09-2016, 09:12 PM
#3141
Aluminum steering have different ackerman settings or just remove slop and flex?hiw about the bushings on the caster blocks? Top or bottom? Thx man
M
M
09-09-2016, 10:44 PM
#3142
These Schumacher Low Profile Stagger fronts are annoying to mount on the JConcepts Slim front wheels.
a Jconcepts issue.
The tires have the lip of the bead made to work with standard width rims basically it feels like.
Does anyone cut back the bead lip on them?
09-10-2016, 09:45 AM
#3144
I haven't found them hard to get on the wheels, but gluing them is a different story...... I only buy them pre-mounted for the front.
09-10-2016, 10:17 AM
#3145
Tech Rookie
Using the 7/13 Hartson setup, I added the brass bulkhead and got a TON of steering. I also got the front servo weights, but haven't tried them yet. I had so much rear traction, I couldn't get enough steering until the brass bulkhead. (It may be overkill, so I'm gonna go back to plastic bulk and try the weights next)
09-10-2016, 11:17 AM
#3146
Everyone using the 25 gram brass c for the laydown? Mine came with the 12 and wondering if that will provide enough grip. Bushings on to on the spindles add more steering in this buggy (like others) right? Thc
Using the 7/13 Hartson setup, I added the brass bulkhead and got a TON of steering. I also got the front servo weights, but haven't tried them yet. I had so much rear traction, I couldn't get enough steering until the brass bulkhead. (It may be overkill, so I'm gonna go back to plastic bulk and try the weights next)
09-10-2016, 11:22 AM
#3147
Tech Apprentice
Rookie question that I'm hesitant to ask.... When setting rear camber to -1, do you guys set it by adjusting the tie rods or do you leave the tie rods at the manual set up length and move the mounting point on the rear hubs.
The reason I'm asking is that I'm using a new setup sheet for my first runs on the B6D which says which mounting hole to upper middle.
The reason I'm asking is that I'm using a new setup sheet for my first runs on the B6D which says which mounting hole to upper middle.
09-10-2016, 11:39 AM
#3148
Rookie question that I'm hesitant to ask.... When setting rear camber to -1, do you guys set it by adjusting the tie rods or do you leave the tie rods at the manual set up length and move the mounting point on the rear hubs.
The reason I'm asking is that I'm using a new setup sheet for my first runs on the B6D which says which mounting hole to upper middle.
The reason I'm asking is that I'm using a new setup sheet for my first runs on the B6D which says which mounting hole to upper middle.
09-10-2016, 01:36 PM
#3150
Thx Matt ! You get consistent grip there with the laydown on a practice day? Coming from xray I needed 3-4 degrees toe (4 degrees is shockingly kit setup)