649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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07-29-2016, 09:20 AM
#2075
if the car is good before the track dries out, it might just require a tire change. Now if you want to strap on brass go for it. My local track typically has good traction, but it can dry out and the cars handling changes. I find it best to change the tire or change your driving. I mostly change my driving. Alter how I enter/exit corners etc. I dont run on your surface, so hard to really say. I suggest talking to the local sponsored AE drivers.
07-29-2016, 09:22 AM
#2076
07-29-2016, 09:28 AM
#2077
Tech Regular
07-29-2016, 09:52 AM
#2078
it could make it worse by exaggerating the pendulum effect. if you're juicing it coming out of a corner and the buggy isn't straight yet and it's sliding out, adding more weight to the back will make it swing more.
07-29-2016, 10:36 AM
#2081
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
if the car is good before the track dries out, it might just require a tire change. Now if you want to strap on brass go for it. My local track typically has good traction, but it can dry out and the cars handling changes. I find it best to change the tire or change your driving. I mostly change my driving. Alter how I enter/exit corners etc. I dont run on your surface, so hard to really say. I suggest talking to the local sponsored AE drivers.
07-29-2016, 10:36 AM
#2082
I had to cut the body to get The R1 fan to fit.
07-29-2016, 01:35 PM
#2085
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
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