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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-25-2016, 08:04 PM
  #1951  
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Originally Posted by suby723
Did you bleed the shocks for zero rebound? Also is the +3 hub instert down? I have no problems getting to 16mm on my b6. If you can't figure it out I'll be more then glad to give it a good look over at the next race.
Where have you been man?

Yeah I have zero rebound on the shocks. The rear hub insert did confuse me a bit but I have it so the hinge pin hole is closest to the bottom of the hub making it sit higher. Should it be there other way?
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Old 07-25-2016, 08:12 PM
  #1952  
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Originally Posted by TAW
Where have you been man?

Yeah I have zero rebound on the shocks. The rear hub insert did confuse me a bit but I have it so the hinge pin hole is closest to the bottom of the hub making it sit higher. Should it be there other way?
I had my second son born on July 1st and was on call for work yesterday so I couldn't race. I'll be racing the thunder sizzler this weekend though.
Maybe the car is too light? I added the brass lipo weights. You have the hubs set up correctly also.
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Old 07-25-2016, 08:15 PM
  #1953  
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Originally Posted by suby723
I had my second son born on July 1st and was on call for work yesterday so I couldn't race. I'll be racing the thunder sizzler this weekend though.
Maybe the car is too light? I added the brass lipo weights. You have the hubs set up correctly also.
Congrats!

We will be at Thunder this weekend too.

We will keep working on the B6, I will say that its much more "reactive" than his 5 car was and that may be part of the issue. Might need a bit of a driver adjustment more than anything.
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Old 07-25-2016, 08:28 PM
  #1954  
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Originally Posted by TAW
Congrats!

We will be at Thunder this weekend too.

We will keep working on the B6, I will say that its much more "reactive" than his 5 car was and that may be part of the issue. Might need a bit of a driver adjustment more than anything.
Thanks! I'll see you there! It's a task switching out the carpet setup for a dirt setup, I may just have to get a D car also lol.
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Old 07-25-2016, 08:34 PM
  #1955  
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Originally Posted by TAW
I have the 0 offset cups in the rear and the 5 in the front, I'm not sure the 0 will work in the front without binding against the arm.
a bunch of guys are using the yokomo springs on carpet. maybe they are shorter?
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Old 07-25-2016, 09:55 PM
  #1956  
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nevermind...
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Old 07-25-2016, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
a bunch of guys are using the yokomo springs on carpet. maybe they are shorter?
Most are using Kyosho.
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Old 07-25-2016, 10:08 PM
  #1958  
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whats the part number for this Yokomo green springs?
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Old 07-25-2016, 10:15 PM
  #1959  
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Originally Posted by Phillip F
whats the part number for this Yokomo green springs?
YOKYS-A1200 for the rear

YOKYS-A775 for the front.

The importer is Amain.

I personally love the Yokomo (non yatabe) springs for outdoor. However, for carpet I've been directed away from the Yatabe and told to run the kyosho. For high bite clay, I was stoked on the greens on a lighter car (1475 grams).

I don't have experience with either on carpet, until this weekend.
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Old 07-25-2016, 10:21 PM
  #1960  
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check this out...don't know if this is a reliable source.

http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/BuggySpringChart.pdf
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Old 07-25-2016, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Socket
YOKYS-A1200 for the rear

YOKYS-A775 for the front.

The importer is Amain.

I personally love the Yokomo (non yatabe) springs for outdoor. However, for carpet I've been directed away from the Yatabe and told to run the kyosho. For high bite clay, I was stoked on the greens on a lighter car (1475 grams).

I don't have experience with either on carpet, until this weekend.
thanks Socket.... in that case...what's the part number for the Kyosho's? I run indoor on a medium/high bite clay.
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Old 07-25-2016, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Phillip F
thanks Socket.... in that case...what's the part number for the Kyosho's? I run indoor on a medium/high bite clay.
Sure.

I've been told two spring setups with the Kyoshos.

Note: I have not personally ran Kyosho springs on the B6/B6D...yet. That will change this week. Before this week, I've stuck to Yokomo and been happy.

XGS012 are white rears
XGS002 are white fronts

I'd run these on indoor clay, and I've been told are stellar on carpet for a lighter car.

For carpet, I'm going gold rears (XGS013) and red fronts (XGS004).

If I'm not stoked on how the car works, I'll be going right back to yokomo springs.
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Old 07-26-2016, 01:20 AM
  #1963  
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Originally Posted by Socket
Sure.

I've been told two spring setups with the Kyoshos.

Note: I have not personally ran Kyosho springs on the B6/B6D...yet. That will change this week. Before this week, I've stuck to Yokomo and been happy.

XGS012 are white rears
XGS002 are white fronts

I'd run these on indoor clay, and I've been told are stellar on carpet for a lighter car.

For carpet, I'm going gold rears (XGS013) and red fronts (XGS004).

If I'm not stoked on how the car works, I'll be going right back to yokomo springs.
thanks ... wow $20 for a pair of springs (that's like a pair of Proline Prime tires w/ inserts already)... thank god I bought a B6
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Old 07-26-2016, 04:31 AM
  #1964  
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The kyo springs can be found at the $15 a pair on ebay by rchobbies4life.

But yes, they aren't cheap.
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Old 07-26-2016, 05:51 AM
  #1965  
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Originally Posted by Socket
The kyo springs can be found at the $15 a pair on ebay by rchobbies4life.

But yes, they aren't cheap.
Also when the yen was down compared to the $$ I got them from Futaba shop Japan, it was like $8 for a pair
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