I am thinking maybe this can be fixed thru the hotwire settings but I could use a little help. I just finished my new EB48.3 last night. I took my RX8 Gen 2 and motor out of my ET48 and swapped the whole thing right over and bolted it into the EB. When I turned it on the car drives forward when I hit reverse on the controller and it brakes when I pull the trigger. Then it will reverse when I pull the trigger. I tried reversing the throttle in the radio but that didn't work. It was working fine in the ET48 and I didn't disconnect anything. I used the same receiver and everything just swapped it all over to the buggy. Is there a setting in the hotwire that can change this? Do I have to reverse the direction of the motor or something?

It's been a while since I built mine but is it possible you have the front and rear diffs in backwards?

What's the best overall diff oil set up to run. Outdoor medium traction dusty dirt

+1
7-7-5 is pretty common, I've been liking 7-5-5 on a low bite track

You can reverse the motor rotation in the Hotwire settings but my guess is that you have the diffs in backward in either the buggy or the truggy. Both require the same motor rotation so you should not have to reverse it for one or the other.

Also, did you calibrate the ESC?

Hi guys, can anyone help with the stock shock and diffs oils that come with the kit, how do I compare their weight to Associated or Losi oils?
Found a conversion chart but don't know where I am with the stock oils.

http://i.imgur.com/R9ELYFH.jpg?1

From my understanding, the oil in the kits are pretty close to ptrc oil. From what I understand, in the diffs, kit/ptrc feels like 2k less than assoc/losi. Kit 5K feels like assoc 3K.

I haven't heard how the shock oils compare. I would go to ptrcracing.com and look at their conversion chart under the technical data tab.

Need a little advice from the Tekno crowd. I've been running Tekin RX8 / 1900KV in my various buggies for quite some time, but decided to give the Orion R8.1 Pro a shot to see if it's more durable than the Tekin.

Does anyone on this thread have one mounted in an EB48.3 / ET48.3? The separate capacitor bank, and the rather large switch is a real bugger to mount. I found some pictures online of someone who had one mounted in an SCT410, but the 1/8th motor is too long to mount it that way.

Any pictures y'all have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks....

Any idea why one of my front camber links would have to be shorter then the other side to get the same camber. I've checked everything I can think of but the right side has to be about 2-3 mm shorter. If I run a full short link it bottoms out in the link ends at 0 degrees while the other side I can run to -3. Going nuts lol

did you mix up a camber link and a steering link when building?

Also check to make sure that both rod ends on the link are threaded on evenly. If one is a couple turns out from the other you might not be able to make it as short as you need.

Nah this is a well used buggy that just had this issue pop up . Threads are equal, and they are both actual camber links not toe links I removed the ends and checked.
The actual gap is smaller on one side and still doesn't have enough negative camber. In other words I have more negative camber on one side even though the gap is bigger between the links. Weird

Only thing I can think of to check is to make sure the arms are still straight. I used to get some weirdness like that on the old buggy after a while when the arms would develop a bow to them after a year and a half of heavy racing. I've not seen that with the newer ones though.

A silly thing to check, make sure the hinge pin inserts are the same side to side and one didn't end up rotated while you were doing some other maintenance.

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