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-   -   Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/882749-tekno-rc-eb48-3-thread.html)

ezlight 04-21-2016 08:38 AM


Originally Posted by Rc4life1978 (Post 14498844)
Also I have a eb48.2. And a rc8b3e. I'm thinking of running my tekno instead but one question. Is the .2 that much different than the eb48.3. Should I sell and get the .3. What r the major differences

The .2 is good, but the .3 is better. The suspension is a world of difference. You can get the upgrade kit here http://fiercercsolutions.com/Tekno-E...kit-FRC010.htm that will give you all the performance parts to make your .2 handle like a .3. But that kit lacks the updated blocks for full adjust ability, which you can also get from Fierce.

And then you have the convenience item of the split center diff, which is a must for maintenance reasons. And you also have the .3 trailing spindles. It's debatable if these are needed though.

8ight-e 04-21-2016 05:24 PM


Originally Posted by HoldDaMayo (Post 14496657)
*****Posted this in the EB48SL thread, but it doesn't get near as much traffic as this thread, so figured I'd post it here as well, one additional comment for this thread, I wish my EB48.3 was a little lighter, be nice if it was a bit closer to 3200g*****

I weighed my buggies and just thought you guys might find it interesting.

EB48SL - HW XERUN pro SCT esc, Tekin 3300kv, 6500mah 3s vant lipo, DS1015 servo
EB48.3 - Tekin RX8G2, Tekin 2050kv T8i, Vant 6500mah 4s lipo, DS1015 servo

I'm interested in trying to get the SL up to 3200g, i'm switching to a Tekin Pro 4 HD 3000kv motor that will add 28g, so I think I'm down to needing 116g to reach 3200g. Any recommendations on what to use to add 116g?

Thanks.

http://i.imgur.com/A4n8Ap0.jpg

Can use the typical 1/10 weight kits for battery trays stick on weights... pretty easy to add weight just put it where you like it best :)

shannow 04-22-2016 01:58 AM

I had an issue the other day with my eb48.3 on race day.
The bladder on the rear right hand side kept "popping out" thus emptying the oil completely after a short while.
It did this a few times and I couldn't explain why. I properly bleed it when I assembled it with no rebound whatsoever. I even managed to feel the bladder pop out of it's place when testing the shock still in my hands by pushing up and down fast. When I was slow I could go full stroke easily and when I push harder suddenly it when plop and oil was pouring on the side hole. I redid it again and so far no problem but I can figure what went wrong. Any ideas ?

Thanks

Horizon8 04-23-2016 04:36 AM

My first new buggy =)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GG...w1600-h1068-no

justpoet 04-23-2016 09:01 AM


Originally Posted by shannow (Post 14501703)
I had an issue the other day with my eb48.3 on race day.
The bladder on the rear right hand side kept "popping out" thus emptying the oil completely after a short while.
It did this a few times and I couldn't explain why. I properly bleed it when I assembled it with no rebound whatsoever. I even managed to feel the bladder pop out of it's place when testing the shock still in my hands by pushing up and down fast. When I was slow I could go full stroke easily and when I push harder suddenly it when plop and oil was pouring on the side hole. I redid it again and so far no problem but I can figure what went wrong. Any ideas ?

Thanks

Well used bladders are hard to seal correctly as they have expanded. Also, with no rebound, it is possible that you're sucking enough to pull the bladder out of perfect seal when at full shock length. The tighter you get the cap when there isn't oil between the bladder and cap, the less likely you are to have issues. If you're going to re-use bladders, the only way that generally works is the method as shown by Lutz in the Tekno shock video.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

qstorm777 04-23-2016 02:20 PM


Originally Posted by shannow (Post 14501703)
I had an issue the other day with my eb48.3 on race day.
The bladder on the rear right hand side kept "popping out" thus emptying the oil completely after a short while.
It did this a few times and I couldn't explain why. I properly bleed it when I assembled it with no rebound whatsoever. I even managed to feel the bladder pop out of it's place when testing the shock still in my hands by pushing up and down fast. When I was slow I could go full stroke easily and when I push harder suddenly it when plop and oil was pouring on the side hole. I redid it again and so far no problem but I can figure what went wrong. Any ideas ?

Thanks

Could be the bladder is old, but also with the .3 buggies and truggies, don't push the shock shaft in all the way when installing the cap. I leave about 10mm of the shaft out on the front and about 15mm out on the rear.

bigco66 04-24-2016 08:34 AM


Originally Posted by tekno951 (Post 14498331)
anyone know who has the proline eb48 phantom bodies in stock?

Proline discontinued the Phantom body I don't know why!!!! I found one and I am planning on making some copy's of it.

shannow 04-25-2016 01:44 AM

thanks for all the tips on the shock bladders :). I'll try the trick not to fully compress them when assembly. The whole kit is still pretty new. The bladders had maybe 3hours of runtime max total (two races a a couple of training).

doctorfeelgood5 04-25-2016 06:39 AM

Quick question likely answered somewhere but I couldn't find it:

I upgraded my EB48.2 to the .3 (mostly) and I also have a 410.3 Even thought the front and rear shocks are slightly different lengths between these two vehicles, they use the same springs right?

MX304 04-25-2016 08:57 AM


Originally Posted by doctorfeelgood5 (Post 14505055)
Quick question likely answered somewhere but I couldn't find it:

I upgraded my EB48.2 to the .3 (mostly) and I also have a 410.3 Even thought the front and rear shocks are slightly different lengths between these two vehicles, they use the same springs right?

That's correct.

ezlight 04-25-2016 08:58 AM


Originally Posted by doctorfeelgood5 (Post 14505055)
Quick question likely answered somewhere but I couldn't find it:

I upgraded my EB48.2 to the .3 (mostly) and I also have a 410.3 Even thought the front and rear shocks are slightly different lengths between these two vehicles, they use the same springs right?

Correct...different overall shock lengths, but springs are the same.

(the rear bodies and shafts on the SCT are the same as the front on the buggy. Keep appropriate springs though.) Now you have spare shocks for the front of the SCT since you did the upgrade on the buggy. :)

weedsnager 04-25-2016 06:20 PM

Just bought the Eb 48.3 kit with the Tekin 1/8 RX8 Gen2 Brushless System 4030 1900kV,

Is there a lot of setup adjustments I need to make to the esc? I don't have the program card

MX304 04-25-2016 06:28 PM


Originally Posted by weedsnager (Post 14505920)
Just bought the Eb 48.3 kit with the Tekin 1/8 RX8 Gen2 Brushless System 4030 1900kV,

Is there a lot of setup adjustments I need to make to the esc? I don't have the program card

Not really. I usually set my current limited to around 70 which I think you can do without having the Hotwire programmer. Make sure the low volt cutoff is set to 4s, and that you don't have any timing added.

SLW-SVT 04-25-2016 10:07 PM

I'm having a problem with one of my rear shocks and i haven't been able to figure it out yet. The bladder keeps getting dislodged and oil comes out the breather hole. I tried a new bladder thinking that would help because the old one was a little swelled up. It did not help.
I'm not running shock boots but neither are any of my other teknos and i am not having that problem with them or the other shocks on this buggy.

wow didnt see this a few posts up. I'll try this

Originally Posted by justpoet (Post 14503065)
Well used bladders are hard to seal correctly as they have expanded. Also, with no rebound, it is possible that you're sucking enough to pull the bladder out of perfect seal when at full shock length. The tighter you get the cap when there isn't oil between the bladder and cap, the less likely you are to have issues. If you're going to re-use bladders, the only way that generally works is the method as shown by Lutz in the Tekno shock video.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


coombes 04-26-2016 05:18 AM

Who here run uni joints in the steering on dusty lose bump track in there buggy and is it worth it


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