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-   -   Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/882749-tekno-rc-eb48-3-thread.html)

justpoet 04-13-2016 08:15 AM


Originally Posted by Slapjack (Post 14490699)
Ok, about the shocks. I just talked to Amain about the problem I am having with the TiNi shaft on the front. I bought TKR6017T for the front and TKR6061T for the rear. Amain is saying I need part number TKR6004T for the front and TKR6017T for the rear. But I think that would be the parts you use on the 48.2. I ordered the front and rear per the manual option callout. Am I wrong or what? TKR6017T says rear shaft and TKR6061T says X-Long rear shaft. But I am pretty sure that is what I need. Anyone have a contact at Tekno I can ask to be 100% sure?

You are correct. The 48.3 does use the longer shafts, not the shorter shafts like the 48.2 and 48SL do. That would also have nothing to do with an initial bind while the shock is fully extended.

Does the same issue happen when you use the stock shafts? That'll tell you quickly if it is shaft or something else.

Slapjack 04-13-2016 08:35 AM


Originally Posted by justpoet (Post 14490703)
You are correct. The 48.3 does use the longer shafts, not the shorter shafts like the 48.2 and 48SL do. That would also have nothing to do with an initial bind while the shock is fully extended.

Does the same issue happen when you use the stock shafts? That'll tell you quickly if it is shaft or something else.

Thank you for confirming the part number. Yea, I just thought about doing that with the stock shaft. This was last night at like 1:30am and I was pretty tired and frustrated by that point.

shannow 04-13-2016 10:54 AM

I was wondering if my servo (2yrs old) is still good enough for the EB48.3 at race level.
I currently have a Hitec 7954sh set with 7.2v (through the xr8+ HW).
It produces a torque of about 400oz.inch and a speed of 0.12s.
Should I keep it until it dies or would I benefit from upgrading ?
I was looking at servos around 0.09s for a 250-300oz.inch thinking of the savox 1267sg
Or even should I go banana and get the 2284sg at 0.65s for the same torque ? I like the aluminium case as the Hitec's is getting pretty beaten up where you screw it to the chassis... (direct mount though as I lost the rubber pads a long time ago).

thanks

ezlight 04-13-2016 11:03 AM


Originally Posted by shannow (Post 14490944)
I was wondering if my servo (2yrs old) is still good enough for the EB48.3 at race level.
I currently have a Hitec 7954sh set with 7.2v (through the xr8+ HW).
It produces a torque of about 400oz.inch and a speed of 0.12s.
Should I keep it until it dies or would I benefit from upgrading ?
I was looking at servos around 0.09s for a 250-300oz.inch thinking of the savox 1267sg
Or even should I go banana and get the 2284sg at 0.65s for the same torque ? I like the aluminium case as the Hitec's is getting pretty beaten up where you screw it to the chassis... (direct mount though as I lost the rubber pads a long time ago).

thanks

Specs are good enough at 7.4v...I'd run it

Wouldn't hurt to get a spare as a backup. But at 2 years old, if it isn't giving you problems. Or upgrade to one with better specs, and keep the hitec as your backup....I'm kinda a backup nazi...I hate not having spares.

Numburn 04-14-2016 06:42 AM


Originally Posted by shannow (Post 14490944)
I was wondering if my servo (2yrs old) is still good enough for the EB48.3 at race level.
I currently have a Hitec 7954sh set with 7.2v (through the xr8+ HW).
It produces a torque of about 400oz.inch and a speed of 0.12s.
Should I keep it until it dies or would I benefit from upgrading ?
I was looking at servos around 0.09s for a 250-300oz.inch thinking of the savox 1267sg
Or even should I go banana and get the 2284sg at 0.65s for the same torque ? I like the aluminium case as the Hitec's is getting pretty beaten up where you screw it to the chassis... (direct mount though as I lost the rubber pads a long time ago).

thanks

Those specs look good. Most are using the inner hole on the new servo arms, but in your case you could keep using the outer hole if you want more speed.

Personally, I can't run a servo for 2 years in EBuggy. I run a good bit every week and I'm doing good to get a year out of any servo. Usually it's just the gears that get wore out and slop develops.

I would stay away from Savox servos. The motors tend to die in them. I've just started running the Protek servos and so far I'm really impressed with the bang for your buck.

Slapjack 04-14-2016 09:54 AM


Originally Posted by Slapjack (Post 14490730)
Thank you for confirming the part number. Yea, I just thought about doing that with the stock shaft. This was last night at like 1:30am and I was pretty tired and frustrated by that point.

Just wanted to make another post about what my issue was with the shocks on my new kit. At first I thought it was the TiNi shaft that I bought that was giving me a notchy rough feel when compressing the shocks. So I went home last night and removed the piston from the shaft and worked the shock up and down... Perfectly smooth. Got the same result with the stock shaft. Then I put the piston on the stock shaft and got the notchy feel again. I grabbed a Q-tip and pulled the cotton off one end and ran the stick down inside the body of the shock and the bottom 1/2" of the inside of the body I could feel these grooves. So I held it up to the light and you can see there were these circular grooves inside the body at the bottom. There weren't jagged or anything but they were very shallow. That is what was causing my problem. Anyone else ever experienced this?

I also wanted to commend Tekno RC on their customer service. I emailed them about the issue and they got right back to me and sent out 2 new shock bodies (so the colors would match) along with a new bottle of shock fluid and a return label to send in the faulty shock so they could inspect it. Excellent customer service Tekno!! Keep up the good work.

vwduud 04-14-2016 11:03 AM


Originally Posted by Slapjack (Post 14492303)
... Excellent customer service Tekno!! Keep up the good work.

Second to none.

Jan Larsen 04-14-2016 01:24 PM


Originally Posted by Slapjack (Post 14492303)
Just wanted to make another post about what my issue was with the shocks on my new kit. At first I thought it was the TiNi shaft that I bought that was giving me a notchy rough feel when compressing the shocks. So I went home last night and removed the piston from the shaft and worked the shock up and down... Perfectly smooth. Got the same result with the stock shaft. Then I put the piston on the stock shaft and got the notchy feel again. I grabbed a Q-tip and pulled the cotton off one end and ran the stick down inside the body of the shock and the bottom 1/2" of the inside of the body I could feel these grooves. So I held it up to the light and you can see there were these circular grooves inside the body at the bottom. There weren't jagged or anything but they were very shallow. That is what was causing my problem. Anyone else ever experienced this?

Yeah, me. I massaged the grooves away with a dremel on slow settings and a polishing end that fitted right in. That helped. I could probably have done the same as you and get it replaced due to slightly faulty manufacturing, but I couldnt be arsed really, it was a fairly easy fix :)

Bob Barry 04-14-2016 01:53 PM


Originally Posted by shannow (Post 14490944)
I was wondering if my servo (2yrs old) is still good enough for the EB48.3 at race level.
I currently have a Hitec 7954sh set with 7.2v (through the xr8+ HW).
It produces a torque of about 400oz.inch and a speed of 0.12s.
Should I keep it until it dies or would I benefit from upgrading ?
I was looking at servos around 0.09s for a 250-300oz.inch thinking of the savox 1267sg
Or even should I go banana and get the 2284sg at 0.65s for the same torque ? I like the aluminium case as the Hitec's is getting pretty beaten up where you screw it to the chassis... (direct mount though as I lost the rubber pads a long time ago).

thanks

I run the Savox 1268 in every car I own, 10th and 8th. It's more than enough power and the speed is just right for me. Anything more and I feel my car is too twitchy. They are 200/6.0v 347/7.4v for torque. If you want the latest and greatest, Savox 2274 I believe is the updated version of this servo (also what Ty Tessman runs)

shannow 04-14-2016 04:37 PM

Thanks for the replies :). I'll keep the Hitec then for a while. Actually the Hitec is the remnants of two 7954sh where on one the case busted and gears were worn and the other was going berserk around neutral and had Parkinson elsewhere. I used the working components of both to give me a very good one.
It's good news anyway because I may have a change of plans moneywise and I'm going to go probably for the nb48.3 as well (not enough races in 1/8 ebuggies where I live and can't take the frustration).
I was wondering if the HD power are good servos ?

edonsohc 04-14-2016 06:43 PM


Originally Posted by shannow (Post 14492737)
Thanks for the replies :). I'll keep the Hitec then for a while. Actually the Hitec is the remnants of two 7954sh where on one the case busted and gears were worn and the other was going berserk around neutral and had Parkinson elsewhere. I used the working components of both to give me a very good one.
It's good news anyway because I may have a change of plans moneywise and I'm going to go probably for the nb48.3 as well (not enough races in 1/8 ebuggies where I live and can't take the frustration).
I was wondering if the HD power are good servos ?

I've ran a few of the HD power servos. Hit and miss on quality. I've had some real good ones. Some I'm still running. And a few that burnt up or broke pretty quick.

Ruffdog1 04-14-2016 10:02 PM

I need some setup help for my 48.3. Our track has a long high speed strait then a 180 turn. My buggy pushes hard when i try to take the corner. I have 4 steering limiter washers. I run associated diff oils 7-7-5. My setup is pretty close to bornhorst wicked weekend. I can usually get my sct 410.3 rear to break free and drift the corner a little but can't seem to break the buggy rear end free. Track is hard packed, somewhat dusty and watered but drys out quickly. Any suggestions?

Cuebulon 04-16-2016 08:24 AM


Originally Posted by Ruffdog1 (Post 14493044)
I need some setup help for my 48.3. Our track has a long high speed strait then a 180 turn. My buggy pushes hard when i try to take the corner. I have 4 steering limiter washers. I run associated diff oils 7-7-5. My setup is pretty close to bornhorst wicked weekend. I can usually get my sct 410.3 rear to break free and drift the corner a little but can't seem to break the buggy rear end free. Track is hard packed, somewhat dusty and watered but drys out quickly. Any suggestions?

what are your ride heights?

Ruffdog1 04-16-2016 09:01 AM


Originally Posted by Cuebulon (Post 14494526)
what are your ride heights?

27 front and rear

qstorm777 04-16-2016 08:59 PM


Originally Posted by Ruffdog1 (Post 14493044)
I need some setup help for my 48.3. Our track has a long high speed strait then a 180 turn. My buggy pushes hard when i try to take the corner. I have 4 steering limiter washers. I run associated diff oils 7-7-5. My setup is pretty close to bornhorst wicked weekend. I can usually get my sct 410.3 rear to break free and drift the corner a little but can't seem to break the buggy rear end free. Track is hard packed, somewhat dusty and watered but drys out quickly. Any suggestions?

5-5-3 assoc is probably more like Joe's 7-7-5 ptrc oil.


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