AMS 7.0, Diffs 7/7/5, droop 119/135 giving the 3x2.1 pistons a try also

AMS 7.0, Diffs 7/7/5,droop 119/135

Off topic question as i'm still new to the 8th scale world but I was looking at a lot of the under the hood setups that neobuggy showcased for the E-buggy Euro race and noticed that they all use 2x2s lipo setups instead of a single 4s battery. Anyone know why this is? Weight? Capacity?

Anyway, love my .3. Still gives me a big grin every time I drive it. :)

Must be a Euro thing.. No one at my track runs that.. Although on some older platforms that was the thing to do before the proliferation of large capacity 4s came to market. Maybe in Europe 4s batteries are harder to get?

Yea things happen and sometimes it's just unexplainable hahaha. I'm just happy Tekno offers the 50% warrenty so that makes me happy :)

It's because EFRA hasn't still hasn't homogenized any 4S packs so on EFRA events you have to run 2x2S packs. On club level most people run 1x4S since it's easier to handle and cheaper.

I'm running the same setup on my EB and NB, but my shock package is different on both. Works well for me. I had tried the Joe's WW setup, and the Southern nats setup before. Found the ass to be a little more unstable on both setups.

One thing to look at, is if it feels twitchy, to slow down your steering rate. My buddy recently switched to tekno, and we had to turn it down to 70% for him due to how much the tekno responds to input. After running TLR & AE, he just wasn't used to the response.

without knowing your setup, I wouldn't touch diffs. It sounds like your car transfers too much weight forward as soon as you let off the throttle. That effect is more noticeable when you hit the brakes. I would maybe take a mm rear droop out. Maybe go to thicker shock oils, try lowering the ride height 1mm...

remember that unless we have the total picture, we're all just guessing.

Haha...some how I missed the AMS setup in your initial post. Like said, yeah reducing the rear droop could help. I never had this problem with the buggies, just the sct. Limiting the rear droop and drooping the antisquat helped me on the sct.

Another thing that helped was making sure the wheels were straight and that I wasn't giving it any steering input at the end of the straight until I was ready to turn.

Nice low wing mount. What mount are you using?

I use 18t pinion with my 1900kv setup as well

Hi. I bought 48.3 three months ago. Now I run it on a medium size indoor clay track with all stock settings. I cannot find a setting sheet for clay track from Tekno's website. Anyone who also play on indoor clay could give me some suggestion?
Below is my car:
Tekin rx8 + 1900kv + 18t pinion
Tires: JC Dirt webs or PL electron

With the stock settings, I can feel the car is not very fast in corners, especially when coming out of corners. The first thing I learned from this thread is to change diff oil. Maybe 10-10-5 is a good idea? I use associated oil. Since 48.3 is my first racing car, I don't know much about tuning cars. Any suggestion will be appreciated.

Look for one of the Neo Race setups and that should get you in the ball park. And I would suggest 7-7-5 PT brand for diffs. That's roughly 5-5-3 AE. If you're on higher bite inside, bump it up some (about 2k each to start)

Thanks Bob! I checked Neobuggy.net but could not find setup for EB48.3. Did you mean setups for other cars also work here?

I will start with 7-7-5 for the diffs and see how it goes. I notice that the center diff can be hot after running for a while. I think that is because motor is hot. But do we usually take the temperature into consider and pick higher weight for center diff?

Any alternatives to the Tekno battery straps? I broke 3 this week... the edges on the guard aren't sharp or anything, so no idea why they are breaking..