Yep, new bearings often have a little more resistance than well worn ones. At larger angles like full droop when on a stand, CVDs and dogbones can also have more resistance than when in their normal running positions. Most 8th scale motors do tend to have a bit of a drag effect though, even without drag break turned on.

Very cool! I appreciate the help and will post more after i get to run it. Sadly no racing this weekend since the track is being reworked.

thanks guys i got some tekno k=ones along with the 4mm arm reamer, good call on that cause i missed it as the required tools on the box.

will start the build next week and keep everyone updated

Good idea getting these tools ahead of time. It sucks getting to a spot where a tool is needed and having to wait 3 days for it to arrive. I am currently waiting on my arm reamer. Today I just picked up a mini electric driver and some mip speed tips. Best thing ever especially for screwing in those long screw for the hinge pin hangers.
Speaking of the hangers I just put my front arms on to test fit them while waiting on the reamer and is there supposed to be this big of a gap between the arm and hanger? The arm can slide back and forth like 1.5-2mm - see pic

I've been wondering about this too, I know the gap is expected, its just part of the design, but should we be shimming it out?

i'm curious on the gap too. i shimmed mine to take up the slack. don't know if it's right to do that or not though.

Someone will hopefully chime in... Although I am thinking it is supposed to be left alone so the arm has room to move and doesn't get bound up.

I am also wondering about the hinge pins again. I got my reamer today and I reamed so that when I drop the pin thru it falls thru flush to other end. When I hold the pin and move the arm it has very very slight friction still but very free moving. I read the pin is supposed to fall all the way thru. But I thought maybe I shouldn't go that far with it cause dirt might get in easier? Should I leave it how it is or keep going til the pin can fall thru all the way out the other end?

The gap is intentional. It only happens with the more angled hinge pin settings, and this can happen because of the huge amount of adjustability Tekno offers. If it didn't have the gap when at more of an angle, then it would bind up when straight center to center. It is safe to take some of the play out with a small shim so long as you still have SOME movement so as to not bind up even under flex and the full suspension compression movement.

I have mip and hudy hex bits (2 each of 1.5mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm and 3mm), two 1/4" small handles from Lowe's, kobalt socket ends, those 1/4" shank things for using sockets with driver and a small 1/4" electric driver. I probably don't need two 1.5mm and two 3.0mm because I never use the 1.5mm in the drill and I rarely use 3.0mm hex. It works for me because everything is quick-change and interchangeable. I can use drill to do most the work and the use handles for final tightening. To me, a quality electric driver is a must. Wrenching on new plastic by hand is a pain and slow.

Definitely want your hinge pins to fall all the way through your arms in every situation, it prevents the suspension from doing its job correctly if there is binding or friction.

Something the team has been doing is a simple mod to the suspension arms. The mod is to cut out the area around the hingepin but leave about 12mm on both ends to create H-shaped arms. This allows the arms to pivot far more freely under stress and flex while getting rid of an area that could load up with dirt. Arm strength is reduced but no one I know has had durability issues running their arms like this with the buggies.

if you run in dusty conditions like I do, you should often take you suspension apart and clean the hingepins : dust tend to pack and become hard.
I even use a round 4mm round file to rub the Inside of the arm. then I blow the dust out.

On every buggy I drill the arms with a 4.2mm drillbit.

I am very annoyed by this and just wanted to see if anyone else had any issues with these. I got the TiNi coated shock shafts and delrin inserts and assembled my front shocks last night. The one shock has this rough feeling when the shaft is all the way extended then you start to compress it. I took everything apart twice and cleaned everything. I couldn't see any issues with the inserts, O-rings or piston. So it has to be an imperfection in the shaft itself right? I emailed amain for a replacement but I am sure they are going to want me to send back the one I have first which means I will be waiting another week before I can continue.

Also, I had a question about the manual. Manual says to use 400cst in the front shocks and 450cst in the rear. Isn't it more typical to use lighter oil in the rear than in the front?

It has to do with the length of the shocks and the pistons that are used. This is the only buggy with truggy length shocks so it is different from a standard buggy setup. It works though!

Also, shock mounting position. With the front shock mounted out further on the arm, it will gain in shock shaft speed, allowing it to pack up quicker with lower viscosity oil.

Ok, about the shocks. I just talked to Amain about the problem I am having with the TiNi shaft on the front. I bought TKR6017T for the front and TKR6061T for the rear. Amain is saying I need part number TKR6004T for the front and TKR6017T for the rear. But I think that would be the parts you use on the 48.2. I ordered the front and rear per the manual option callout. Am I wrong or what? TKR6017T says rear shaft and TKR6061T says X-Long rear shaft. But I am pretty sure that is what I need. Anyone have a contact at Tekno I can ask to be 100% sure?