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Originally Posted by turtle189
(Post 14284044)
They did have issues with bad outdrives earlier in the year they will replace them with pics and a proof of sale.
I like tekno anyway ! |
For the battery connectors, count me as an XT90 convert as well. I'm switching over batches of batteries and a vehicle at a time, but I like them for everything except perhaps small stock buggy where lightweight everything matters. I think if I ever get back into stock racing I'll either stick with inboard 4mm bullets or use XT60s. I've used deans, but also agree they're more of a pain to solder than it should be, even though I don't generally have issues with them.
The XT60s are nice, but are a 3.5mm bullet connection, which I don't feel comfortable pulling the amp load of 2s 4wd SC or eBuggy Lite through. The EC3 and EC5 connectors are named after the size of their bullets. The XT90 has the largest mating surface with 5.5mm bullet connections. The XT90 is SUPER EASY to solder, even when using 8 and 10 gauge wire instead of just 12. They stay together well, but have good grip points so still aren't hard to pull apart, and are reasonably inexpensive as well. |
Originally Posted by justpoet
(Post 14284067)
For the battery connectors, count me as an XT90 convert as well. I'm switching over batches of batteries and a vehicle at a time, but I like them for everything except perhaps small stock buggy where lightweight everything matters. I think if I ever get back into stock racing I'll either stick with inboard 4mm bullets or use XT60s. I've used deans, but also agree they're more of a pain to solder than it should be, even though I don't generally have issues with them.
The XT60s are nice, but are a 3.5mm bullet connection, which I don't feel comfortable pulling the amp load of 2s 4wd SC or eBuggy Lite through. The EC3 and EC5 connectors are named after the size of their bullets. The XT90 has the largest mating surface with 5.5mm bullet connections. The XT90 is SUPER EASY to solder, even when using 8 and 10 gauge wire instead of just 12. They stay together well, but have good grip points so still aren't hard to pull apart, and are reasonably inexpensive as well. Even the hxt are only 4mm, they are longer. that's what help them to get the same rating but i like the fact that xts are easy to solder. I didn't notice that hxt 4mm get warmer but I think I need connectors that can handle 120 amps without any resistance. any idea ? |
Transponder
Has anyone tried relocating the transponder on the EB (and SCT) further forward? Has anybody had a photo finish where the location of the transponder matters?
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If by photo finish you mean a movie, yes I have had several of those. ;).
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Also once I hit the throttle, the ESC fan stops working? Any ideas? Tekin Gen2 and Futaba 3pm
edit: found some info, fan only turns on at 130 and above derp |
Originally Posted by qstorm777
(Post 14284229)
Has anyone tried relocating the transponder on the EB (and SCT) further forward? Has anybody had a photo finish where the location of the transponder matters?
I've had a finish where I beat Danny even though his truggy crossed the line first. Basically my front wheels were between his front and rear. This was at the first ROAR electric Nats at Revelation Raceway. I beat him by less than .1 seconds simply because my transponder was up front and his was in back. Ah, what a glorious day :). EDIT- Found it! Beat him by .01 -- TRUCK OPEN EXPERT - A Main -- Pos Car Laps time name id avg.mph 1 1 14 10:42.44 RANDY PIKE 36 15.29 2 3 13 10:18.50 TY 50 14.75 3 2 13 10:22.36 CHUCK MILLAR 118 14.65 4 8 13 10:27.70 A SEVILLE BRAVO 135 14.53 5 11 13 10:44.44 MATTHEW ARMENI 79 14.15 6 10 13 10:44.45 TEKNO RC 61 14.15 7 7 12 10:10.67 THOMAS JONES 65 13.79 8 12 12 10:35.31 DAN BURNHAM 23 13.25 9 6 12 10:47.43 JIM CAMPBELL 7 13.00 10 5 9 10:30.31 BLADE LUNA 69 10.02 11 9 4 3:29.30 A AARON WEULE 73 13.41 |
Originally Posted by JOELD
(Post 14283878)
ah thanks!
on another note a completely seized the rear hub inside carrier bearing, odd.. edit: wont let me upload pic right now [IMG]http://s22.postimg.org/6wfytx0od/seals.jpg[/IMG] |
Originally Posted by jason07
(Post 14283105)
If money wasn't an option, which servo would everyone use. I have always used the Hitec 7955(I'm a Hitec fan) but if there is a better servo that Hitec makes, I would be more than happy to spend a few more $$$.
What about something like this? HSB-9380TH Ultra Torque, Brushless, Titanium Gear Servo is it too much? I know some of you may use a $40 servo, and I'm sure they're great, but that's not what I'm after. www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-trucks/protek-rc-170t-chad-bradley-team-edition-high-torque-digital-servo-high-voltage-ptk-170t/p265048 OR www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-trucks/protek-rc-170s-chad-bradley-team-edition-high-speed-digital-servo-high-voltage-ptk-170s/p265047 |
Originally Posted by Dont Hack Me
(Post 14285870)
Im not a hitec fan because, I've never ran them. If switching was an option, this is what i would switch too. I run the "S" in my buggy and ran the "T" in my truggy. best servos I've ever had
www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-trucks/protek-rc-170t-chad-bradley-team-edition-high-torque-digital-servo-high-voltage-ptk-170t/p265048 OR www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-trucks/protek-rc-170s-chad-bradley-team-edition-high-speed-digital-servo-high-voltage-ptk-170s/p265047 |
All my 1/8 e cars are running Hitec 7954sh on 7.4v . I think they are absolutely the perfect servo for me at .12 speed and 400+ oz . I have never ever had 1 single issue with the hitecs 79** I have had. On the other hand , I have 3 bad HV savox servos that savox has no interest in talking to me about .I have had to rebuild a $130 plus hv futaba with no time on it and I have also sent back 2 protek servos that failed within minutes. I imagine the savox servos that start with a '2" are better than mine , but Im not betting on it . I would try a radiopost servo though fwiw . Drivers seem very happy with them.
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1 Attachment(s)
Here is where I place my transponder on all my Tekno vehicles.
Attachment 1332557 Is it me or does this car have tons of on-power steering and little off-power steering? |
Originally Posted by Mikeand22
(Post 14286864)
As a race director, watching the scoring software, I get notifications of "weak" transponders reads. More times than not, these transponders are mounted either vertically or directly on the aluminum chassis. Moving them and mounting them horizontally solves the problem. This doesn't mean it won't count (at all) mounted like this. Just FYI. http://support.mylaps.com/kb/en/b2c/...rt_07_2010.pdf |
Originally Posted by vwduud
(Post 14286897)
Although the transponder will work mounted vertically like that, it is designed to be installed horizontally for best performance. A lot of factors determine read performance, including proper installation of the counting loop at the track. If both the loop isn't optimally installed and the transponder is installed vertically or blocked by the aluminum part of the chassis, there are times that it may not count (weak signal).
As a race director, watching the scoring software, I get notifications of "weak" transponders reads. More times than not, these transponders are mounted either vertically or directly on the aluminum chassis. Moving them and mounting them horizontally solves the problem. This doesn't mean it won't count (at all) mounted like this. Just FYI. http://support.mylaps.com/kb/en/b2c/...rt_07_2010.pdf |
Originally Posted by Mikeand22
(Post 14286945)
Thanks man! I had no idea and no one has ever mentioned that to me. I've never not been counted but that's good to know.
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