shouldnt that inner seal on the seal piece itself go all the way around?

Rx8 Power Switch
 

I'm also curious as to where people who use RX8's put the power switch? On my 410.3, I have it on the side wall. I don't know that I like it there. The esc gets warm and my parma tape looses adhension if I mount it on the RX8. Just looking for a good spot. If the switch was a push button, I would mount it on the floor.

On the "motor" side of the ESC, Parma + shoegoo holds it well

Ca glue right to the case or even better , remove switch and solder. 2 problems solved

+1 for cut and solder.

Thats kind of funny....that happened to me with savox, why i switched

Intersting. Never tried using shoogoo. Guessing shoogoo goes between RX8 and parma. Don't want to cut switch out yet. I haven't had any problems with one yet. On my serpent, I found a good spot on side guards floor. I haven't found such a spot on Tekno yet.

Tekno did design a place for a switch. It is on the mud guard/radio tray. The top edge of the mud guard is not straight across, it has a small section that raises up slightly and has two support ribs molded into the plastic. The switch goes in-between the two ribs. Post #15558
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...l#post12632584
Having said that, I either cut off my switch or attach it to the side of the ESC.

I've run most all of the above mentioned except the ProTek's.

Hitec - lasted a long time, but got more slop in gear train than others
Futaba (the "expensive" one 9352??) - one lasted 8 months, the replacement lasted a week - got the "jitters"
Savox - both the 12 series and the 22 series - over time, lose power

I am surprised ANY of these servos last with the abuse that we put them through. Think about going full speed down a straight away, turning just a bit too early and catching a pipe, yanking the steering. Especially with 1/8th scale servo savers and not wanting to run them too loose to get every bit of steering out of the car as we can, in an 8 or 10 pound missile.

While I have had luck with both Futaba and Savox replacing damaged servos, as mentioned, when it happens during a race, that is not all too helpful.

I look at servos as disposable now, which means run the cheapest of the ones that perform, keeping brand new spares in my box. If I can get a warranty replacement for a busted one, great. If not, it hurts less to throw away a servo that was under a 100 bucks, than one that is over 100 or even $150.

Savox fits this paradigm. They have enough speed and torque to compare to the higher dollar servos, but are the least expensive in most cases. When they have failed on me, it has simply been a loss of torque; a notable loss of steering performance. Still finished a race, but car was sluggish. Now I just check for torque on the bench periodically. Catch it before it happens.

Racing is abusive. Parts are going to wear. Just the cost of having high performance fun.

Thanks. Thats exactly where I have it on the sct.

How recent? I was planning on getting the protek 170S

I get it. The price to play can be quite expensive. Ive had really good luck with my protek's. I had one go bad, sent it back for a swap out. My 170's tho, haven't had a real problem. The only thing that i have had go bad was the bearing that the spine comes out of. It was getting a little sloppy from turning 4 million times. I swapped it with a mbx7r steering post bearing. Good as new. With savox, i have had so many go bad after 4-6 months. Don't get me wrong. I am by no means easy on my servos, but i picked up the good ones. Gears mostly but some got the jitters.

Ordered mine yesterday. Can't wait to get it. Hopefully have it ready for next season. :)

Diffs
 

Is everyone sticking with 7-7-5? Has anyone tried 7-7-4 or 7-7-3? If so, can you state how does it compare to 7-7-5?

Thanks.

I switch between 7-5-3 7-7-3 7-7-5. Depending on the track.
The 7-7-5 pulls hard out of the corners if the traction is there.