if buying a new kit, what options would be recommended?

Pink Front Springs
Red Rear Springs
Delrin Shock inserts
TiNi Shock Shafts
Arm mod
Raise the transmission (try it, if you don't like it remove it)
Joe Bornhorst Southern Nats setup

Remember all the team guys use PT Oils, which are considerably thinner. If you don't want to figure out the differences, add PT Oils to the list.

Thanks :) Appreciate the info

You're Welcome. I added that info to the first post along with the part numbers. If you have any other questions, let me know.

This is just the rear gearbox, correct? Not the front or center?

Correct.

I just placed my order. The tower price along with coupon makes this deal too hard to pass up. Was able to get it down to just under 430 for the kit :nod:
One item I got that Bob doesn't mention is the aluminum servo horn if you don't already have one. I also got some additional roll bars for tuning. Can't wait to receive mine and join the tekno army. :deathstar

i'm slowly mounting my kit : i really appreciate the overall quality, nice work Tekno !
this thing is the most extrem 1/8 i ever built : all the chassis is so skinny and tight ! + the chassis is really thin as some point !
the gearbox are closed units, that's a nice idea

Droop it
 

Anyone like to touch on droop settings for this buggy, when and why changed and a correct way to measure.

Measure shock length from upper mounting screw to lower mounting screw.

i just mounted the front shocks to check how it is in place : i 'm a bit disapointed because i thought there would be a lot of negativ suspension travel : i mean when the chassis touches the ground, you can't really lift the Wheel anymore.
negativ suspension travel is usefull on very bumpy tracks or harsch landing ( my case )

I do measure my shafts when building, (calipers not large enough for entire shock) I was always under the impression that you tune this with the screws on the arms.
Is the group letting the shock do the work, or are you limiting down travel with the screws? I leave them sometimes for bumpy stuff, but I am recently running more prepped tracks and the car doesn't settle as fast as a few others out there. I'm thinking limiting down might help on a smooth track?

What some do is take a ruler and measure from top to bottom with the shock installed on the car. Using the droop screws, you set the 'length' or droop and just make sure they are the same length.. and yes, limiting droop on a smooth track will help :D

The droop screws in the arms are what does the limiting, but most setup sheets still measure 10th scale style by the length of the shock eye to eye. My calipers also don't go this long, and that changes if you change shock position (while the actual droop doesn't). I measure my droop like a second ride height as the wheels are just about to leave the ground. It isn't really important how you measure, as long as you measure the same each time or use the same method as the setup sheet you're trying to match.

And you are correct, less droop will as an over generalization, generally allow the vehicle to react faster and work more consistently on a smooth track.

Is the eb48.3 better then the losi 4.0, rc8b3e, or mugen?