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-   -   Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/882749-tekno-rc-eb48-3-thread.html)

teknorc 08-05-2015 11:47 AM

'Upside down' in this case means the taper or cone point is on top.

We don't recommend using the previous design (conical) pistons upside down as this reduces down travel too much. This is why we went to the taper design so that you can run them upside down and not lose any down travel.

Wease 08-05-2015 12:17 PM


Originally Posted by teknorc (Post 14126865)
'Upside down' in this case means the taper or cone point is on top.

We don't recommend using the previous design (conical) pistons upside down as this reduces down travel too much. This is why we went to the taper design so that you can run them upside down and not lose any down travel.

O.K., let me try to re-state what I think you are saying. There are two types of pistons, conical and tapered.

The 4x1.8 tapered pistons are included in the kit and they should be installed taper side up/flat side down.

The 6x1.6 pistons are the conical style and if I decide to use them, these should actually be installed with the dome side facing down. Running the conical pistons with the dome side up reduces too much down travel.

Do I have this correct?

jetgsr 08-05-2015 01:30 PM

Pistons
 

Originally Posted by Wease (Post 14126906)
O.K., let me try to re-state what I think you are saying. There are two types of pistons, conical and tapered.

The 4x1.8 tapered pistons are included in the kit and they should be installed taper side up/flat side down.

The 6x1.6 pistons are the conical style and if I decide to use them, these should actually be installed with the dome side facing down. Running the conical pistons with the dome side up reduces too much down travel.

Do I have this correct?

Yes that is correct. Does not show in the EB48.3 manual but is in the NB48.3 manual.

HoldDaMayo 08-05-2015 04:37 PM


Originally Posted by MX304 (Post 14126298)
They are supposed to be installed taper side up, which as you said, will reduce pack. When I originally built my car I had them in flat side up, then switched them to taper side up. The car worked well both ways but was better with the taper up. I also tried the 6X1.6 pistons. That didn't work nearly as well as the 4X1.8 for our track.

Can you give some idea of the handling differences between the 4x1.8 and the 6x1.6 pistons? Just trying to figure this stuff out.

Thanks.

justpoet 08-05-2015 06:27 PM


Originally Posted by home13oy75 (Post 14123682)
I just purchased a used EB48.2. Can I slowly replace my existing parts to the new .3 - or does it all need to be changed at once to work?

You MUST replace some of them in sections. For example, you can't use the longer shocks without the new arms and hubs.

You CAN replace sections apart from each other (for example only the front or the back). You will have very odd setups and possible handling issues, but it can be done.

It is RECOMMENDED that you replace at least all of the major components (shocks, arms, spindles/hubs, towers) in the front and back at the same time. You CAN wait on the v2 hinge pin holders if you haven't already gotten them, though many of the new setups make use of positions that require them.

teknorc 08-06-2015 11:20 AM


Originally Posted by HoldDaMayo (Post 14127295)
Can you give some idea of the handling differences between the 4x1.8 and the 6x1.6 pistons? Just trying to figure this stuff out.

Thanks.

You can get them to feel similar, but the short story is that the new tapered pistons are a little more consistent in most conditions because the compression/rebound differential is closer.

The coned pistons pack up more and give quicker rebound which is good for smoother tracks. They should provide higher corner speeds.

The new tapered pistons have a more subtle compression/rebound differential and are suited for rougher tracks. They should provide more stability.

CTDpower 08-06-2015 08:57 PM


Originally Posted by teknorc (Post 14128479)
You can get them to feel similar, but the short story is that the new tapered pistons are a little more consistent in most conditions because the compression/rebound differential is closer.

The coned pistons pack up more and give quicker rebound which is good for smoother tracks. They should provide higher corner speeds.

The new tapered pistons have a more subtle compression/rebound differential and are suited for rougher tracks. They should provide more stability.

Thanks for the explanation. Everyday learning more and more. When I built my kit I used the white tapered pistons because they just looked better to me, not sure why, just looked smoother or something. I put the taper down. I assume you can run taper up or down and it would be a preference or tuning thing. Am I correct to assume that running taper down will provide more pack and quicker rebound? But since it is such a small taper the difference is subtle and a person may not even notice a difference between running them upside down or right side up?

Wease 08-06-2015 10:00 PM


Originally Posted by teknorc (Post 14128479)
You can get them to feel similar, but the short story is that the new tapered pistons are a little more consistent in most conditions because the compression/rebound differential is closer.

The coned pistons pack up more and give quicker rebound which is good for smoother tracks. They should provide higher corner speeds.

The new tapered pistons have a more subtle compression/rebound differential and are suited for rougher tracks. They should provide more stability.

Got 3 packs through my new EB48.3 this evening and started with the 6x1.6 conical pistons. Tekno is right on the money about the quick rebound in these pistons. The buggy would land a really tall and long double without chassis slapping, but the buggy wanted to jump back up off the track because the rebound was so fast. It did the same thing on smaller jumps but obviously not as bad, but it would make the buggy lose rear traction If I got on the throttle to quick because the weight had come off the rear end. I did not like the feel of those pistons in this buggy. I prefer my buggy to pack and stay sucked to the track and slowly rebound. Headed back to the track tomorrow for more practice before a big race and I put the 4x1.8 tapered pistons in the buggy when I got home. Can't wait to see what these feel like.

CTDpower 08-06-2015 10:43 PM

When you guys are swappin pistons are you just trashing the shock oil and refilling, or do you save the oil in the shocks, maybe pour it back in the bottle?

JJG690 08-06-2015 10:59 PM


Originally Posted by CTDpower (Post 14129346)
When you guys are swappin pistons are you just trashing the shock oil and refilling, or do you save the oil in the shocks, maybe pour it back in the bottle?

I've personally never seen anyone try and reuse shock oil. It's cheap and fresh oil always performs the best anyway

RokleM 08-07-2015 05:39 AM


Originally Posted by CTDpower (Post 14129346)
When you guys are swappin pistons are you just trashing the shock oil and refilling, or do you save the oil in the shocks, maybe pour it back in the bottle?

It depends. If the oil is pretty fresh and I want to make a quick shock piston change, you can technically do that with just a quick topoff. I think many will dump or also make an oil viscosity change at the same time.

jon may 08-07-2015 12:11 PM

I run on some quite bumpy dirt and astro tracks in the uk should I be running my shock pistons with the flat facing up or down

ZERTA RACING 08-07-2015 02:09 PM


Originally Posted by jon may (Post 14130113)
I run on some quite bumpy dirt and astro tracks in the uk should I be running my shock pistons with the flat facing up or down

Hello,

You would want to run the flat side down. This will slow the rebound down and allow the car to stay more planted on a bumpy surface.

jon may 08-07-2015 02:25 PM


Originally Posted by ZERTA RACING (Post 14130264)
Hello,

You would want to run the flat side down. This will slow the rebound down and allow the car to stay more planted on a bumpy surface.

thanks

X God 08-10-2015 07:18 AM

When changing the roll center with the tie-rod should you also change it in the suspension block ?


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