So far I've been running soft enduros on practice days and there wear is excellent, consistent handling, but the grid irons definitely have more overall bite when in the line. Still pretty new myself but those have been working pretty well. Want to try some triple Dees next

What would make the car bounce all over the place at the very end of the long straights ?
Basically the car is fine everywhere but at the last week end's race at the end of the straight the car would start bouncing violently until it fliped over. No drag brake was used.
The only way to keep it on it's 4 wheels was to gently ease off the throttle at the end and coast quite a while before using the brake for the first turn.
Any ideas ?

Was the track surface chewed up? One of the first place a track will start to get blown out is the braking zone at the end of a long straight.

You can also try reducing rear droop a little so not as much weight transfers to the front under braking. If it acted like drag brake though, check for binding someplace in the driveline like a worn CVD or a blown bearing or something rubbing.

Yes it was. Others had issue too but not everybody it seemed.
One odd thing about the track was the fact that the straight was uphill all the way except the last third. So if you were flat out the car, especially the rear, would lift quite a bit and of course forget about touching the brakes because the car would instantly flip over.
I'll try the idea of reducing rear droop a little, thanks :).

Btw I was at about 25mm ride height front and rear. I had standard pistons and oils according to temps (20wt front 25wt rear for a 5°c/40°F temp)

27mm is about where most are running. Depending on the oil that is pretty light, even if it is a little chilly out. 425 front and 450 is the sweet spot roughly for most of the setups and 20/25 is roughly 200/300. You might want to post the rest of your setup and a picture of the track, because something doesn't quite sound right.

Hello, has anyone else has any issues with the hex pins falling out? This has happened to me twice and the second time it had been thread locked into place. If anyone had a suggestion on how to stop this from reoccurring that would be appreciated.

Thanks Alex

I'm assuming you are talking about the pins that hold the wheel hexes in place. When you install the hexes, do you have the flat spot on the pin facing the grub screw?

I just sold my SCT410.3 roller. I've got one of these EB48.3 kits on the way.

I considered the SL. But the EB48.3 was hard to beat brand new on tower for $479.99

I'm going to run my RX8 Gen2 in it, with a Tekin Pro4 4600KV on 2S until I get my 1/8 buggy motor and 4S packs.

You guys think the Pro4 on 2S will move the EB48.3 around OK? It was a lightning bolt in the SCT.3 truck with a 17T pinion lol.

Also, do these EB48.3 kits include the cnc shock pack and the cnc conical pistons stock in the box?

Or do I need to pick some more up.

The kit has the cnc pistons, but does not have the delrin shock bushings.

Never seen it done, but doesn't mean it can't be done. The buggy is heavier so I will be curious to see how it goes. I prob would start w/16t tho. Post back your results.

The EB48SL seems to do OK.

I guess we will see. I've had the SCT.3 full of about a pound of dirt and it was still fast lol, considering a short course body acts like a fender lol. That's another reason I was looking to get away from SCT I spent more time cleaning, then running.

My Cousin runs a MP9e TKI3 and it's always clean.

I looked hard, and I don't think there is a better buggy for the money on the market. Massive shock towers.

No offense against SCT trucks, I'm sure when a 410.5 comes out I'll be buying lol. 48.5 to!

But for now, I'm excited to build a new kit!

Any suggestions before I build it?? The only part that ever broke on my SCT.3 was the stock plastic V2 A brace.

Kits usually take me 20 hours continuous work, or 3 days spread apart.

You want the delrin shock cartridge inserts like Ryan Lutz installs in his How-to videos.. followed by the white delrin conical pistons.

my new shock pistons
compression 4 hole 1.5 mm, the rebound 4x1,5+4x1,3 mm
here I think to buy a new buggy version 3, or 4 to wait...

The SL is basically a converted SCT (buggy mudguards and body mounts, etc.). I think the EB is a different beast but, like I said, idk - it very well may work. May not hurt to try. You might ask Tekno what they think. Maybe someone else here has some insight on the 2S and 4600kv motor.

Me personally...
minimum, I would get the aluminum servo horn.

I would then consider the delrin shock cartidges and alum diff cross pins. Maybe the alum center diff mount.

Alot of us are starting with Joe Bornhorst's wicked weekend NB48.3 setup. I believe that calls for different springs, sway bars and shock oil (I'm currently running the kit shock oils 400f/450r - still cool temps here).