28LikesTLR 22-4 THREAD
01-27-2014, 07:12 AM
#1952
Sounds like there is more than one of us having problems with limitations on ride height in front due to lack of threading on the shock body. I seem to remember that associated B4.2s came with different height spring cups. I wonder if their taller ones will fit. Worth a try anyway.
Friend hooked me up and they fit like a champ! Not only does it allow for higher ride heights (like the 22.5mm listed on the Dunford OCRC starting setup) but it feels like it's locked in more securely than the stockers.
Friend hooked me up and they fit like a champ! Not only does it allow for higher ride heights (like the 22.5mm listed on the Dunford OCRC starting setup) but it feels like it's locked in more securely than the stockers.
01-27-2014, 07:22 AM
#1953
I am running the Dunford set up and have no problem getting the right ride height. I order all my extra parts and the parts need for the set up frpm Horizon and had them in a day!.
I am running the rear sway bar and the 1.5 hexs.
Running a 8.5 with my Tekin RS and had to add a fan. Running AKA Typo's all the way around with red foams and the car was hooked up at IERC. I did break my front arm but was totaly at fault as I put this car though the ringer!!!
Build was super easy. I need a little help setting the slipper but other that that great ride. I did not get any pics with tires mounted.
I am running the rear sway bar and the 1.5 hexs.
Running a 8.5 with my Tekin RS and had to add a fan. Running AKA Typo's all the way around with red foams and the car was hooked up at IERC. I did break my front arm but was totaly at fault as I put this car though the ringer!!!
Build was super easy. I need a little help setting the slipper but other that that great ride. I did not get any pics with tires mounted.
01-27-2014, 08:05 AM
#1954
is this a good set up a gen two redline 8.5 with tekin rs pro esc?
01-27-2014, 09:27 AM
#1955
Should they provide you with one extra of every piece in case you lose those too? I understand that it is a very low cost item to them, but how do they know which hardware piece you are going to lose? I'm not sure if the shafts are metric or std, I think they are metric. Should be easy enough to find a clip at the local hobby shop if you have one. The hardware section of lowe's or home depot may even have one.
Sorry can't blame losi here.
Sorry can't blame losi here.
01-27-2014, 09:29 AM
#1957
01-27-2014, 10:05 AM
#1960
Here is My review of the TLR 22-4 after the build and 1 day of racing - Keep in mind, I am still a new Driver and not much experience with a 1/10th 4wd buggy.... The build went together very smoothly - No major hiccups at all - I spent roughly 11 hours on the main build without wiring electronics - I will say, when applying thread lock to the front hubs, be very gentle - slightly to much and it will bind up a bit - Also, make sure your exercise the turnbuckles, it will save your a headache at the track when your need to make adjustments - The 2 ball diffs went together without a hiccup and feel very smooth - On my first few practice laps I noticed my Orion 8.5 turn motor running blinky may have been to light of a motor, so I quickly added some timing into the ESC - Problem solved - I was running the base setup for ride height of 22 front and rear, while running 32.5 weight shock oil front and 30 in the rear. - The car absorbed the bumps of my track very very well and handled the jumps like a pro giving me confidence in the car... Qualifier went smooth no issues at all - short of my driving of course which was a little off for this class - Mains came and I was nervous and tired at this point after running only 2 classes today, but marshaling quite a bit to help out as needed, It's time for the Main- Started off strong in 6th position - avoided most of the chaose at turn 1 and moved my up the pack as quick as I could - Fighting my own tiredness I was driving like an amateur - Miss judging turns, eating pipes, hard landings etc - the car handled them good for the most part - then it happened - A few minutes into the race and I hit a pipe to hard on the left side of the car and broke the left front A-arm - Am I upset, not at all, the car handles amazingly well and grips the track nicely - The issue I had was DRIVER RELATED - I am extremely pleased with the car and the decision to add 4wd mod buggy to my race program !!!
01-27-2014, 10:07 AM
#1961
01-27-2014, 10:33 AM
#1962
Arm is on backwards...
Mine was 1870g at Reedy with Ti Turnbuckles, Ball Studs and Shock Mounts.
CC rears, always. Fronts, CC for higher traction, 3/4 open cell rear foam for the front on medium to low grip. CC fronts kill a lot of steering, so it is a tuning option.
CC rears, always. Fronts, CC for higher traction, 3/4 open cell rear foam for the front on medium to low grip. CC fronts kill a lot of steering, so it is a tuning option.
01-27-2014, 10:53 AM
#1963
The problem i have right now with the car or set up is that the car sqats on the rear and wants to pull the front tires up. It doesnt launch right when on the the power. Any suggestions Frank?
01-27-2014, 11:18 AM
#1964
Does anyone who has hit the track already have a recommendation for a jconcepts tire combo in the 22-4? I am going to order Gold Dirt Webs all around and wonder if there was any other suggestions.
01-27-2014, 11:29 AM
#1965
Tech Adept
BIG PROBLEM
Page 30, D-7
I went ahead of myself and missed putting in the spacer. Did not think it was a problem to correct.
BOY O BOY - I can't get the pin out (TLR2974). Those who are built the kit, try for yourself.
Mine is locked in. I tapped it down to the shaft with a screwdriver. I still cant pull it out. The pin is to to short and tight to pull !!!!!!!
Everyone will need to change/clean bearings. Try taking the pin out for yourself
TLR staff- try pulling out your front pins. Good luck.
Why did you not use the same pin idea as the SCTE?
Page 30, D-7
I went ahead of myself and missed putting in the spacer. Did not think it was a problem to correct.
BOY O BOY - I can't get the pin out (TLR2974). Those who are built the kit, try for yourself.
Mine is locked in. I tapped it down to the shaft with a screwdriver. I still cant pull it out. The pin is to to short and tight to pull !!!!!!!
Everyone will need to change/clean bearings. Try taking the pin out for yourself
TLR staff- try pulling out your front pins. Good luck.
Why did you not use the same pin idea as the SCTE?