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Old 10-03-2014, 03:41 PM
  #3376  
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Originally Posted by Cain
hopefully tekno can look into a thicker pull on the body if possible, or something beefed up more. That would be a nice fix.
The thin body bothered me at first as I quickly destroyed my first one, but I gooed' an drywall taped my second before running it and it's held up great.

My thinking here is that even with thicker lexan you will still probably have to goo it to keep it from cracking, so might as well have an over all lighter body with the thinner lexan. Also with the flexible backing the more flexy body could help prevent cracks.

And using Velcro to hold the body to the side of the truck help a lot with durability as the bottom can't get caught on the ground and twist as easy and also takes all the stress off of the body mount holes to the point where you only need body clips as a backup. On all my Tekno's I run the sticky side Velcro the full length on both trays and trim to fit clean, then put about 1.5in of the fuzzy side at the for corners of the body. This prevents the Velcro on the car from pulling off as easy vs. just using a couple of squares on the car to match the body.
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Old 10-06-2014, 04:12 PM
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Drove my car on the track for the first time yesterday....it was pretty damn amazing. With the 2050kv, 14t, and current limited to 50% the car was very predictable and controllable. Jumped really nicely. I did notice when coming into a turn hot, the rear end would lift a little...is there a way to correct that? It's built box stock with 10/15/7 in the diffs.

I want an EB48.2 now!
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Old 10-08-2014, 07:21 AM
  #3378  
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Originally Posted by Sk8rob
Yeah, I read just about every page in here and for our track I think the 2050kv motor was a good option. I have a 14t & 15t pinion to try out. It currently has 10/15/7 diff fluids, which I'll try for now. Also, going to limit the current to 50% for starters.

I totally forgot about that 14mm screw...thanks for the reminder!
i am not too sure about the 2050 motor. I tried one. Major heat issues. Tried everything from a 14 up to a 18 pinion. If anyone can get it right let me know but it was coming off the track over 200 after three minutes of running. My 1900 never goes over 150
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Old 10-08-2014, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by rythby
i am not too sure about the 2050 motor. I tried one. Major heat issues. Tried everything from a 14 up to a 18 pinion. If anyone can get it right let me know but it was coming off the track over 200 after three minutes of running. My 1900 never goes over 150
After 10-15 min runs, my motor was around 140's. Perhaps limiting the current to 50% helps with heat. Our track is pretty small as well.
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Old 10-08-2014, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Sk8rob
Drove my car on the track for the first time yesterday....it was pretty damn amazing. With the 2050kv, 14t, and current limited to 50% the car was very predictable and controllable. Jumped really nicely. I did notice when coming into a turn hot, the rear end would lift a little...is there a way to correct that? It's built box stock with 10/15/7 in the diffs.

I want an EB48.2 now!
Are the rear tires coming all the way off the ground? if so stiffer front springs could help or shifting some weight to the rear.
If the tires don't actually come off the ground but the rear end is coming up real high, you can limit the droop in the rear.
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Old 10-08-2014, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42
Are the rear tires coming all the way off the ground? if so stiffer front springs could help or shifting some weight to the rear.
If the tires don't actually come off the ground but the rear end is coming up real high, you can limit the droop in the rear.
The rear end is just coming up real high so I slow down into the turns to keep the car from possibly flipping. I'll give that a try next time out....thanks
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Old 10-08-2014, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by rythby
i am not too sure about the 2050 motor. I tried one. Major heat issues. Tried everything from a 14 up to a 18 pinion. If anyone can get it right let me know but it was coming off the track over 200 after three minutes of running. My 1900 never goes over 150
You're using a buggy motor in a truggy. We've said this before that it's not advised.

We make truggy motors for a reason, the buggy motors tend to run hot since you're using them at their limits. 4s and a 2000kv or 2250 Truggy length will run cooler and perform better.
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Old 10-08-2014, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
You're using a buggy motor in a truggy. We've said this before that it's not advised.

We make truggy motors for a reason, the buggy motors tend to run hot since you're using them at their limits. 4s and a 2000kv or 2250 Truggy length will run cooler and perform better.
Also I think they are more efficient in the truggy. I have the 2000kv and made a 20min main on a large outdoor track, and my SMC 6500mAh battery was still at 3.7v per cell.
Cain said his 7200mAh died around 19 min using the 1900kv buggy motor.
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Old 10-08-2014, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Sk8rob
The rear end is just coming up real high so I slow down into the turns to keep the car from possibly flipping. I'll give that a try next time out....thanks
Is this during braking or turning? I was assuming you meant braking at first but now it sounds like while you are cornering, either way the same idea will apply. Did you adjust your droop screws at all? this truck is capable of having way more droop than you will ever need, I didn't adjust mine before the first time I ran it and it did what it sounds like yours is doing.
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Old 10-08-2014, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42
Also I think they are more efficient in the truggy. I have the 2000kv and made a 20min main on a large outdoor track, and my SMC 6500mAh battery was still at 3.7v per cell.
Cain said his 7200mAh died around 19 min using the 1900kv buggy motor.
yup. Something to keep in mind though is driving style as well. I am very on power driver so I will in turn burn more mah as well, especially on loose conditions factor in wheel spin too.

But I agree that it may be with the truggy motors, you find you don't push the vehicle harder since you have a great amount of available torque.

HOWEVER, the buggy motor by its nature of lower torque is easier to drive, motor to motor.

As Tekin doesn't recommend there buggy motors in 1/8 truggy I'll switch it back to my E-buggy and run the Viper I picked up with the same Kv that from what I am understanding in discussions with them is okay / advised to use in truggy.

The big trick is knowing to detune the truggy motor on conditions that don't have the traction you need. have a Truggy motor sitting here that I wsa going to use, but the space between the Viper and the motor is not enough for the sensor wire.
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Old 10-08-2014, 03:18 PM
  #3386  
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I can run 20mins pretty well on a 6500 but run 2x 7200 2s for nitro mains to give me enough room to take a couple of easy practice laps and not be afraid to gun it when need be.

I try to get my truggy to handle as much like a buggy with more grip as possible and drive it more that way and don't use a lot of wheel spin. I like to blip the breaks hard but short right before turn in then really throw the rear into the turn, then can get alot of rotation and power out smoothly.
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Old 10-09-2014, 07:32 AM
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yeah out here in buggy back with my first go around in 1/8 I went 6000mah lipos when 25C was a big rating lol to get guarenteed 15 minutes of runtijme. I would get about 17 -18 consistently with even rough on power driving in buggy at least.

something also to keep in mind the 7200s I am using aren't latest and greatest either, mainly used in my 1/10 4wd SCT so I also turn up cutoff on my viper to compensate for any odd voltage dips. Could be that factored in as well as the viper is more sensitive to this than other ESCs and hence if I put it to say something lower, like 3.2 (I had it like 3.5) I probably could have gotten more runtime out of them.

For next year, depending on what I decide I may either get some 4S 6500mah lipos , or maybe do some more IP lipos but in a 7600mah or whatever comes out next brand new just for the vehicle.

I'd be curious though to run my lighter weight 5000mah packs and see how I like the performance and weight balance.
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Old 10-09-2014, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42
Is this during braking or turning? I was assuming you meant braking at first but now it sounds like while you are cornering, either way the same idea will apply. Did you adjust your droop screws at all? this truck is capable of having way more droop than you will ever need, I didn't adjust mine before the first time I ran it and it did what it sounds like yours is doing.
It is while braking hard to enter a turn. I'll play around with the droop settings to see if that helps. It's not bad, but I just want this to be a handling beast.
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Old 10-10-2014, 08:39 AM
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http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...r-et-48-a.html

For sale I have no time to run outdoor tracks in the summer. It's only been on track a handful of times.
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Old 10-10-2014, 05:14 PM
  #3390  
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
You're using a buggy motor in a truggy. We've said this before that it's not advised.

We make truggy motors for a reason, the buggy motors tend to run hot since you're using them at their limits. 4s and a 2000kv or 2250 Truggy length will run cooler and perform better.
i had the 2250. Hated it. Too much. I have been running the 1900 buggy motor for a year and it has never gone over 150 degrees. Runs awesome. Alot of the tekno guys use that motor. Very smooth. Plus it allows me to run lighter batteries. Those guys with the monster batteries try to make runtime and they just add more and more weight. I am just a club racer but I have noticed alot of guys running buggy motors lately. I ran a 1900 buggy motor at Motorama last year in my truggy and I made it all the way up to the A-main. It was amazing.
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