Tekno ET48 Thread
#3376
My thinking here is that even with thicker lexan you will still probably have to goo it to keep it from cracking, so might as well have an over all lighter body with the thinner lexan. Also with the flexible backing the more flexy body could help prevent cracks.
And using Velcro to hold the body to the side of the truck help a lot with durability as the bottom can't get caught on the ground and twist as easy and also takes all the stress off of the body mount holes to the point where you only need body clips as a backup. On all my Tekno's I run the sticky side Velcro the full length on both trays and trim to fit clean, then put about 1.5in of the fuzzy side at the for corners of the body. This prevents the Velcro on the car from pulling off as easy vs. just using a couple of squares on the car to match the body.
#3377
Drove my car on the track for the first time yesterday....it was pretty damn amazing. With the 2050kv, 14t, and current limited to 50% the car was very predictable and controllable. Jumped really nicely. I did notice when coming into a turn hot, the rear end would lift a little...is there a way to correct that? It's built box stock with 10/15/7 in the diffs.
I want an EB48.2 now!
I want an EB48.2 now!
#3378
Tech Regular
Yeah, I read just about every page in here and for our track I think the 2050kv motor was a good option. I have a 14t & 15t pinion to try out. It currently has 10/15/7 diff fluids, which I'll try for now. Also, going to limit the current to 50% for starters.
I totally forgot about that 14mm screw...thanks for the reminder!
I totally forgot about that 14mm screw...thanks for the reminder!
#3379
After 10-15 min runs, my motor was around 140's. Perhaps limiting the current to 50% helps with heat. Our track is pretty small as well.
#3380
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Drove my car on the track for the first time yesterday....it was pretty damn amazing. With the 2050kv, 14t, and current limited to 50% the car was very predictable and controllable. Jumped really nicely. I did notice when coming into a turn hot, the rear end would lift a little...is there a way to correct that? It's built box stock with 10/15/7 in the diffs.
I want an EB48.2 now!
I want an EB48.2 now!
If the tires don't actually come off the ground but the rear end is coming up real high, you can limit the droop in the rear.
#3381
The rear end is just coming up real high so I slow down into the turns to keep the car from possibly flipping. I'll give that a try next time out....thanks
#3382
We make truggy motors for a reason, the buggy motors tend to run hot since you're using them at their limits. 4s and a 2000kv or 2250 Truggy length will run cooler and perform better.
#3383
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
You're using a buggy motor in a truggy. We've said this before that it's not advised.
We make truggy motors for a reason, the buggy motors tend to run hot since you're using them at their limits. 4s and a 2000kv or 2250 Truggy length will run cooler and perform better.
We make truggy motors for a reason, the buggy motors tend to run hot since you're using them at their limits. 4s and a 2000kv or 2250 Truggy length will run cooler and perform better.
Cain said his 7200mAh died around 19 min using the 1900kv buggy motor.
#3384
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Is this during braking or turning? I was assuming you meant braking at first but now it sounds like while you are cornering, either way the same idea will apply. Did you adjust your droop screws at all? this truck is capable of having way more droop than you will ever need, I didn't adjust mine before the first time I ran it and it did what it sounds like yours is doing.
#3385
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
But I agree that it may be with the truggy motors, you find you don't push the vehicle harder since you have a great amount of available torque.
HOWEVER, the buggy motor by its nature of lower torque is easier to drive, motor to motor.
As Tekin doesn't recommend there buggy motors in 1/8 truggy I'll switch it back to my E-buggy and run the Viper I picked up with the same Kv that from what I am understanding in discussions with them is okay / advised to use in truggy.
The big trick is knowing to detune the truggy motor on conditions that don't have the traction you need. have a Truggy motor sitting here that I wsa going to use, but the space between the Viper and the motor is not enough for the sensor wire.
#3386
I can run 20mins pretty well on a 6500 but run 2x 7200 2s for nitro mains to give me enough room to take a couple of easy practice laps and not be afraid to gun it when need be.
I try to get my truggy to handle as much like a buggy with more grip as possible and drive it more that way and don't use a lot of wheel spin. I like to blip the breaks hard but short right before turn in then really throw the rear into the turn, then can get alot of rotation and power out smoothly.
I try to get my truggy to handle as much like a buggy with more grip as possible and drive it more that way and don't use a lot of wheel spin. I like to blip the breaks hard but short right before turn in then really throw the rear into the turn, then can get alot of rotation and power out smoothly.
#3387
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
yeah out here in buggy back with my first go around in 1/8 I went 6000mah lipos when 25C was a big rating lol to get guarenteed 15 minutes of runtijme. I would get about 17 -18 consistently with even rough on power driving in buggy at least.
something also to keep in mind the 7200s I am using aren't latest and greatest either, mainly used in my 1/10 4wd SCT so I also turn up cutoff on my viper to compensate for any odd voltage dips. Could be that factored in as well as the viper is more sensitive to this than other ESCs and hence if I put it to say something lower, like 3.2 (I had it like 3.5) I probably could have gotten more runtime out of them.
For next year, depending on what I decide I may either get some 4S 6500mah lipos , or maybe do some more IP lipos but in a 7600mah or whatever comes out next brand new just for the vehicle.
I'd be curious though to run my lighter weight 5000mah packs and see how I like the performance and weight balance.
something also to keep in mind the 7200s I am using aren't latest and greatest either, mainly used in my 1/10 4wd SCT so I also turn up cutoff on my viper to compensate for any odd voltage dips. Could be that factored in as well as the viper is more sensitive to this than other ESCs and hence if I put it to say something lower, like 3.2 (I had it like 3.5) I probably could have gotten more runtime out of them.
For next year, depending on what I decide I may either get some 4S 6500mah lipos , or maybe do some more IP lipos but in a 7600mah or whatever comes out next brand new just for the vehicle.
I'd be curious though to run my lighter weight 5000mah packs and see how I like the performance and weight balance.
#3388
Is this during braking or turning? I was assuming you meant braking at first but now it sounds like while you are cornering, either way the same idea will apply. Did you adjust your droop screws at all? this truck is capable of having way more droop than you will ever need, I didn't adjust mine before the first time I ran it and it did what it sounds like yours is doing.
#3389
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...r-et-48-a.html
For sale I have no time to run outdoor tracks in the summer. It's only been on track a handful of times.
For sale I have no time to run outdoor tracks in the summer. It's only been on track a handful of times.
#3390
Tech Regular
You're using a buggy motor in a truggy. We've said this before that it's not advised.
We make truggy motors for a reason, the buggy motors tend to run hot since you're using them at their limits. 4s and a 2000kv or 2250 Truggy length will run cooler and perform better.
We make truggy motors for a reason, the buggy motors tend to run hot since you're using them at their limits. 4s and a 2000kv or 2250 Truggy length will run cooler and perform better.