38LikesTekno ET48 Thread
05-20-2015, 07:40 AM
#4126
Tech Adept
I don't like to suggest cheaper radios to start with if you know you're going to be staying in the hobby. It's better to spend the money up front and get a radio that will last you several years than buy a cheaper one that you'll replace as your skill level increases. That said, if you have to buy a cheap radio, I'm pretty sure the Airtronics MX-V, Futaba 3PL, and Spektrum DX4C are right at $100. All three offer plenty of adjustments as well as having rx's that you can use later on when you upgrade your radio (provided you stick with the same brand).
Is the Futaba's transporder more durable than HK-310's?
05-23-2015, 11:55 PM
#4127
Anyone know of a good 7500 - 8000 pack that will fit in the tray? My 2x7200 SMC's finally gave out after doing a year of 4x4 SCT then being joined for a year of etruggy. would like to go to a single pack if possible. Typically use the SMC 6500's but need a little more when running with the nitros in 20min mains.
I lead every lap for 17mins before my pack died and still finished second yesterday
I lead every lap for 17mins before my pack died and still finished second yesterday
05-24-2015, 07:50 AM
#4129
Tech Regular
Thinking the same thing. Eb48.3 is due out soon I would think the ET will eventually be getting the same updates.
05-24-2015, 10:33 AM
#4130
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
As far as I can tell, the real focus is on the NB and EB, and the ET/NT are still in stock some places unlike the NB/EB. It's not out of the question there might be some new parts for the ET/NT, but again I think the overhaul/update of the NB/EB is soon.
05-25-2015, 09:50 AM
#4132
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
Bearing Kit
By comparing the manuals it looks like the ET48 uses the same bearings throughout as the EB48.2. I like the Avid bearing kits but their web site lists a bearing kit for only the NT48 which is more expensive than the EB48.2 kit. Can I just order the EB48.2 kit and have everything I need, can anyone confirm?
05-25-2015, 07:02 PM
#4133
By comparing the manuals it looks like the ET48 uses the same bearings throughout as the EB48.2. I like the Avid bearing kits but their web site lists a bearing kit for only the NT48 which is more expensive than the EB48.2 kit. Can I just order the EB48.2 kit and have everything I need, can anyone confirm?
I'm guessing the Nitro has more bearings for nitro related things for the clutch or something. (I know nothing about nitro
)
05-31-2015, 12:40 PM
#4134
Hey guys... I just finished reading the entire thread 
I picked up my et48 over memorial day weekend and began the build. As always of Tekno kits it is going together smoothly. My only complaint is that I wasn't aware of needing a 4mm reamer for the arms. I have one on order and should be receiving it tomorrow. I used a 3/16 drill bit on the rear arms and it seemed to work fine. I'm just nervous I'll over ream and now waiting for the tool.
I wanted to go over what I had jotted down and see if anyone had anything to add.
1.For diffs: 10/15/5 still a good overall setup? I'm going to build it with the kit setup and go from there.
2. Make sure to use plenty of drywall tape and shoe goo to the body. Mostly the whole front end and around the body mounts. Are people using body pins and velcro? Just a thought...
3. Need a 4x14mm screw for the rear chassis brace to screw into the gearbox.
4. Are yellow springs still a good choice? Is that for front or rear or both?
5. Diff oils to have on hand: 20k, 15k, 10k, 7k, 5k
Shock oils to have on hand: 50, 45, 40, 35
6. Is it still advised to sand down the bottom of the bell crank to reduce friction?
That is all I had written down and I'd appreciate any tips or advice
I can't wait to get this bad boy on the track this coming sunday. I also wanted to throw in a couple pics of my newly painted body. Kinda wish I had known it was that flimsy before having my painter paint it :roll eyes:
I picked up my et48 over memorial day weekend and began the build. As always of Tekno kits it is going together smoothly. My only complaint is that I wasn't aware of needing a 4mm reamer for the arms. I have one on order and should be receiving it tomorrow. I used a 3/16 drill bit on the rear arms and it seemed to work fine. I'm just nervous I'll over ream and now waiting for the tool.
I wanted to go over what I had jotted down and see if anyone had anything to add.
1.For diffs: 10/15/5 still a good overall setup? I'm going to build it with the kit setup and go from there.
2. Make sure to use plenty of drywall tape and shoe goo to the body. Mostly the whole front end and around the body mounts. Are people using body pins and velcro? Just a thought...
3. Need a 4x14mm screw for the rear chassis brace to screw into the gearbox.
4. Are yellow springs still a good choice? Is that for front or rear or both?
5. Diff oils to have on hand: 20k, 15k, 10k, 7k, 5k
Shock oils to have on hand: 50, 45, 40, 35
6. Is it still advised to sand down the bottom of the bell crank to reduce friction?
That is all I had written down and I'd appreciate any tips or advice
I can't wait to get this bad boy on the track this coming sunday. I also wanted to throw in a couple pics of my newly painted body. Kinda wish I had known it was that flimsy before having my painter paint it :roll eyes:
05-31-2015, 03:32 PM
#4135
I reamed with a drill bit as well and have had zero issues with it... been running last season and this season so far with no down time (due to the reaming that is 
)
It looks like you have pretty much nailed the biggest things down with what you have written down on your list there -- I'm sure the pro's will chime in soon if you missed some things.
As for the body, they are _really_ flimsy. I use Fiber Fix tape and Shoe Goo on the problem areas to keep it intact for as long as possible, but good luck with that!
(I ran most of the time with only pins in the front two posts, the rear ones got torn away and I was surprised that the body didn't flop around or anything with only 2 pins...)
Anyway, I hope you have a good time with the truck, I know I love mine!
p.s. your lid looks fantastic!
)It looks like you have pretty much nailed the biggest things down with what you have written down on your list there -- I'm sure the pro's will chime in soon if you missed some things.
As for the body, they are _really_ flimsy. I use Fiber Fix tape and Shoe Goo on the problem areas to keep it intact for as long as possible, but good luck with that!
(I ran most of the time with only pins in the front two posts, the rear ones got torn away and I was surprised that the body didn't flop around or anything with only 2 pins...)Anyway, I hope you have a good time with the truck, I know I love mine!
p.s. your lid looks fantastic!
05-31-2015, 04:25 PM
#4136
By comparing the manuals it looks like the ET48 uses the same bearings throughout as the EB48.2. I like the Avid bearing kits but their web site lists a bearing kit for only the NT48 which is more expensive than the EB48.2 kit. Can I just order the EB48.2 kit and have everything I need, can anyone confirm?
05-31-2015, 07:55 PM
#4137
I reamed with a drill bit as well and have had zero issues with it... been running last season and this season so far with no down time (due to the reaming that is )
It looks like you have pretty much nailed the biggest things down with what you have written down on your list there -- I'm sure the pro's will chime in soon if you missed some things.
As for the body, they are _really_ flimsy. I use Fiber Fix tape and Shoe Goo on the problem areas to keep it intact for as long as possible, but good luck with that! (I ran most of the time with only pins in the front two posts, the rear ones got torn away and I was surprised that the body didn't flop around or anything with only 2 pins...)
Anyway, I hope you have a good time with the truck, I know I love mine!
p.s. your lid looks fantastic!
)It looks like you have pretty much nailed the biggest things down with what you have written down on your list there -- I'm sure the pro's will chime in soon if you missed some things.
As for the body, they are _really_ flimsy. I use Fiber Fix tape and Shoe Goo on the problem areas to keep it intact for as long as possible, but good luck with that!
(I ran most of the time with only pins in the front two posts, the rear ones got torn away and I was surprised that the body didn't flop around or anything with only 2 pins...)Anyway, I hope you have a good time with the truck, I know I love mine!
p.s. your lid looks fantastic!
What size drill bit did you use? Thanks for the kind words!
I was thinking of patching up the body but I haven't reamed the body posts yet. Should I wait until the build is done or am I safe reaming the holes and thickening up the body.
Thanks!
06-01-2015, 05:26 AM
#4139
nevermind... I answered my own question
06-01-2015, 08:27 AM
#4140
!