http://www.teamassociated.com/news/l..._Shock_Pistons!
New Factory Team machined pistons for the 12mm big bore shocks take performance to the next level.
Precision CNC machined pistons allow for the best fitment and concentricity with the shock body to improve handling and consistency. The new pistons are also tapered for independent tuning of compression and rebound.

Terminology

Compression movement: Shock piston traveling upward toward the top of the shock
Rebound movement: Shock piston traveling downward toward the bottom of the shock
Tapered piston: One side of the piston face is flat; the other is tapered / angled
Flat piston: Top and bottom of the piston face are flat
Difference between tapered and flat pistons

A flat piston will travel at the same speed in compression as it does in rebound (given equal force is provided in both directions)
A tapered piston will travel faster in the direction of the taper/angle.
For example, a tapered piston with the taper facing down will travel faster in rebound than it will in compression, allowing the user to tune the rebound and compression movement independently.

#91346 FT Tapered Piston, 2 x 1.5mm holes
#91347 FT Tapered Piston, 2 x 1.6mm holes
#91348 FT Tapered Piston, 2 x 1.7mm holes
#91349 FT Tapered Piston, 3 x 1.4mm holes
#91350 FT Tapered Piston, 4 x 1.3mm holes
#91308 Standard Flat pistons, two-hole (1.5mm, 1.6mm, 1.7mm)

Has anyone heard back from AE about missing kit parts?

I'm still waiting for a response to my email, better off calling them?

-kyri

Yeah, when I was missing parts and then again when I had some other parts machined incorrectly I just called and they usually just have you email them the receipt and description and they'll get it right out. They're good about it once you get them on the phone.

Nice, cool little upgrade for the b4.2 now .

Try building your shocks using AE Green Slime #1105, I also place a small bead of slime on the bleed screw and I don't use the bleed screw o-rings. No shock leaks whatsoever.

If you don't have any green slime make sure you at least place a couple drops of oil on the shock shaft threads before routing the shock shaft through the shock body, so you don't damage the o-rings when 1st assembling shocks.

Can someone explain the idea of the 2+2 pistons? And also when they are used.
Thanks Jason

Read this explanation from AVID's website.

http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html

No QC issues with my 4.2.

Raced it tonight and ran my fastest lap ever on the current layout. Used the box setup but with brown front springs and 30f / 25r oil. And won the main. Light turnout though. Looking forward to some tuning.

Saw those a couple days ago, not in stock yet.... on my wish list!

Finished the kit of my 4.2... the diff feels amazing compared to the ones i built before (iono if its better quality parts or if im just getting better at building them). Everything fit nice and smooth the only thing i had to "drill" out were the arms to ensure they move nice and freely. Tomorrow i put in the electronics... Since my tack is kind of small (90x50 im used to racing on a 150x60) i dont know if i should stick with my 10.5 81/20 or go with my 13.5 75/30. What do you guys think? I always over shoot the triple at my current track. I have a SXX v2 ESC 1/5/3/2 profile setting currently with my 10.5 orion (the 13.5 is also orion). Any thoughts?

Putting my sons diff together on the 4.2, followed the video on how to do it, compressed the spring on the thrust bolt, but the nut does not go down far enough and it is tight to the point I don't want to tighten any more. Picture of how far the nut is on.

It looks like you put the screw / nut in opposite sides of the diff. There is a male and female side and each one has its own place. Double check where you have it vs the instructions.

X2. In fact I just accidentally did this about 2 weeks ago when I rebuilt my diff and had exactly the same result.

Cool, I'll flip it tomorrow, thanks.

Really felt that, after some track testing, I needed to share something that was a real eye opener. On the old small bore shocks, the front droop (2 vs 3 limiters) change affected initial on power steering, deep high speed steering, and rear traction... all in subtle ways. With the big bore shocks and 1.6 pistons in the rear, 2 vs 3 limiters in the front is a TOTAL game changer in regard to the rear end, specifically the ability to get on power. With 2 limiters, I felt as if I needed to keep raising the roll center (removing washers) until the car squared up decently, but it significantly affected low speed traction. With 3 limiters, I was able to lower my roll center significantly more without having the car want to excessively roll back on one wheel when accelerating hard.

This was a real eye opener. On the old car, the front limiters weren't such a huge change to the rear's ability to get on power.

Just sharing the infos.