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Old 12-23-2013 | 11:30 AM
  #11986  
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Another new to AE lame question... Can anybody tell me what turnbuckle wrench will work with the FT blue turnbuckles that come with the 4.1? I have called around to all of my local shops and nobody has one so I have to go to Tower or Amain. It looks like AE, JC, Losi, etc. sell them, but the sizing on all is slightly different and I don't want to buy a paper weight. I just put on RPM ballcups and they are way too tight to move for the plastic turnbuckle wrench that came with the kit so I am looking for something with more muscle that won't strip them.

Thanks again for the help!!!
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Old 12-23-2013 | 11:57 AM
  #11987  
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Originally Posted by JeepnMike
Another new to AE lame question... Can anybody tell me what turnbuckle wrench will work with the FT blue turnbuckles that come with the 4.1? I have called around to all of my local shops and nobody has one so I have to go to Tower or Amain. It looks like AE, JC, Losi, etc. sell them, but the sizing on all is slightly different and I don't want to buy a paper weight. I just put on RPM ballcups and they are way too tight to move for the plastic turnbuckle wrench that came with the kit so I am looking for something with more muscle that won't strip them.

Thanks again for the help!!!
Pretty sure it's 1/8". You can find one here:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...nbuckle-Wrench
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Old 12-23-2013 | 12:12 PM
  #11988  
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Originally Posted by aeRayls
The kit setup is actually really really good and gets you really close at most any track. Tires are 80% of the game. All the esc shelf does is help the car rotate quicker in tight corners. It's a little more hard to drive on certain layouts. The same goes for using a shorty pack. Car is lighter and feels quicker but lap times aren't there to support it.
Thanks for the input, I really appreciate it!

Should I stick with the stock setup with the shocks, as well? From what I remember, the manual had odd shock oil weights for the front and rear.
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Old 12-23-2013 | 12:40 PM
  #11989  
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Originally Posted by 2-shot
Thanks for the input, I really appreciate it!

Should I stick with the stock setup with the shocks, as well? From what I remember, the manual had odd shock oil weights for the front and rear.
30 front, 27.5 year is about the only thing I did outside of the kit. That and RPM ballcups.
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Old 12-23-2013 | 12:43 PM
  #11990  
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Originally Posted by 2-shot
Thanks for the input, I really appreciate it!

Should I stick with the stock setup with the shocks, as well? From what I remember, the manual had odd shock oil weights for the front and rear.
I personally love tapered pistons. Makes the suspension more responsive imo. Maybe give em a try.
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Old 12-23-2013 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by JeepnMike
Another new to AE lame question... Can anybody tell me what turnbuckle wrench will work with the FT blue turnbuckles that come with the 4.1? I have called around to all of my local shops and nobody has one so I have to go to Tower or Amain. It looks like AE, JC, Losi, etc. sell them, but the sizing on all is slightly different and I don't want to buy a paper weight. I just put on RPM ballcups and they are way too tight to move for the plastic turnbuckle wrench that came with the kit so I am looking for something with more muscle that won't strip them.

Thanks again for the help!!!
the turnbuckle size is 3mm.... Hudy makes a wrench that fits a bunch of them
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Old 12-23-2013 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 2-shot
Thanks for the input, I really appreciate it!

Should I stick with the stock setup with the shocks, as well? From what I remember, the manual had odd shock oil weights for the front and rear.
For the shocks the 1.7 pistons are really good most everywhere as well. 37.5 in front and 35 rear. If you must run shorty pack use 35 front 32.5 rear
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Old 12-23-2013 | 01:20 PM
  #11993  
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Originally Posted by JeepnMike
Another new to AE lame question... Can anybody tell me what turnbuckle wrench will work with the FT blue turnbuckles that come with the 4.1? I have called around to all of my local shops and nobody has one so I have to go to Tower or Amain. It looks like AE, JC, Losi, etc. sell them, but the sizing on all is slightly different and I don't want to buy a paper weight. I just put on RPM ballcups and they are way too tight to move for the plastic turnbuckle wrench that came with the kit so I am looking for something with more muscle that won't strip them.

Thanks again for the help!!!
Associated part number 1110 it's $1.50.... 1111 is $6.00 (it's the fancy version)
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Old 12-23-2013 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by aeRayls
Associated part number 1110 it's $1.50.... 1111 is $6.00 (it's the fancy version)
+1
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Old 12-23-2013 | 01:30 PM
  #11995  
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Thanks for the replies about turnbuckles wrenches!

Those of you that have changed out to RPM ballcups, do you guys have to use metal wrenches as well as they are too tight for the plastic wrench?

Thanks again!
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Old 12-23-2013 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by JeepnMike
Thanks for the replies about turnbuckles wrenches!

Those of you that have changed out to RPM ballcups, do you guys have to use metal wrenches as well as they are too tight for the plastic wrench?

Thanks again!
yes rpm cups are very tight in the threads... This is a downside to me. I will never use rpm again.

The very best ballcups I have ever used and I've used a lot of em... Are the new AE low friction cups. They thread on easy as they should, they're stiffer than stock, take quite a push to pop on(that's a good thing) and they are also very "free" on the ball studs. It's the best $6 to spend on the car IMO
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Old 12-23-2013 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by JeepnMike
Thanks for the replies about turnbuckles wrenches!

Those of you that have changed out to RPM ballcups, do you guys have to use metal wrenches as well as they are too tight for the plastic wrench?

Thanks again!
Not sure if you did this already. Put the RPM ball cup in a drill. Just tighten the chuck on the drill enough to hold the ball cup and keep the drill chuck from spinning on the ball cup. Then dab a little bit of grease or Chapstick on the treads of your turnbuckle. Hold the turnbuckle and use the drill to run the ball cup in and out on the threads of the turnbuckle a couple of times. It will make it a lot easier to adjust the turnbuckle later. It's still tight enough that they won't adjust themselves, but loose enough to make it easy to adjust later.
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Old 12-23-2013 | 02:07 PM
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I just got the jconcepts ball cups with the holes in them and I must say, I really like them, they have been really strong and you never have to pop the cups and ruin them. I switched to these from low friction cups, no complaints against the low friction ones, I agree that they are awesome, just wanted something new and i really liked the hole in them idea. anything is better than the kit cups.......
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Old 12-23-2013 | 02:26 PM
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Hideeho
I have been running the jc cups for a few months now. I just popped my 1st cup on my b44 (I've been running them on my b4 & b44). I got taped on launch from a big jump & got seriously out of control in the air. I came down on 1 wheel, broke the arm & popped both ends of the steering link. To test their durability (it was a practice day so it didn't matter) I popped it back on. Next run I hit a dirt clod on the straight, spun & got plowed by an ebug at full throttle. It broke the other arm & popped the same steering link off (other side from the break this time). Again I left it on for the next pack, this time with no major mishaps or breaks, & not popped cups. I'll run it again for warm ups, but it is looking like they are just as durable as the RPM's. Once they pop they need to be replaced, but it should be quite a while before they pop. I don't see them being any better than the RPM's, just MUCH more convenient with the hole in the top.
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Old 12-23-2013 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Waflet
Hideeho
I have been running the jc cups for a few months now. I just popped my 1st cup on my b44 (I've been running them on my b4 & b44). I got taped on launch from a big jump & got seriously out of control in the air. I came down on 1 wheel, broke the arm & popped both ends of the steering link. To test their durability (it was a practice day so it didn't matter) I popped it back on. Next run I hit a dirt clod on the straight, spun & got plowed by an ebug at full throttle. It broke the other arm & popped the same steering link off (other side from the break this time). Again I left it on for the next pack, this time with no major mishaps or breaks, & not popped cups. I'll run it again for warm ups, but it is looking like they are just as durable as the RPM's. Once they pop they need to be replaced, but it should be quite a while before they pop. I don't see them being any better than the RPM's, just MUCH more convenient with the hole in the top.
Wow, exact same experience I have had with the JC ball cups. The only time I popped them was when I snapped the arm on the B44.
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