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why dont they just make bull cups that screw on so they stay on. Mine keep coming off ever race!! And im not even hitting anything!! what are some suggestions as too which will stay on?
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Originally Posted by Nicholas Muelle
(Post 12453832)
why dont they just make bull cups that screw on so they stay on. Mine keep coming off ever race!! And im not even hitting anything!! what are some suggestions as too which will stay on?
Zoom in on the front and have a look. http://www.liverc.com/news/announcem...offroad_buggy/ |
Originally Posted by RED-LINE M03
(Post 12453869)
I might try the new Serpant Syder ball studs and ball cups on my 4.2.
Zoom in on the front and have a look. http://www.liverc.com/news/announcem...offroad_buggy/ |
I am not easy on my b4 by any means, and the new JC cups have stated on pretty much all of the time, except once where I ripped an arm clear off the car. No complaints here.
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Originally Posted by Wattsup23
(Post 12453889)
I plan on doing this. I have seen billy eastons proto type car and the ball studs are very nice!
Dubro has been making these forever and is what I went to on my original RC10 because every ball cup I'd try would pop off. Slapped these on and they are still on that damn car and are just as good as day one. |
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 12453780)
I don't seem to need to do all that, all works nice and smooth no binding or rub .
I use the factory's recommended shim's however ... maybe that's why ? Been using 2 x.030 stud washer's on the bottom shock eye , other wise rubbing happens for me . |
Yankee
Are sure its ok ? Way you have it now ? Can switch back including the hub to the way the factory says ? Snap back on the camber link & note the change in the rear wheel camber angle ...;) |
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 12454005)
Yankee
Are sure its ok ? Way you have it now ? Can switch back including the hub to the way the factory says ? Snap back on the camber link & note the change in the rear wheel camber angle ...;) |
on both my sc10.2 and b4.2 i run 1mm on the lower shock eyelet. sc10.2 has no rubbing, and b4.2 with b44 arms has none, but with stock arms, it had alittle.
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Originally Posted by Jake S
(Post 12454027)
on both my sc10.2 and b4.2 i run 1mm on the lower shock eyelet. sc10.2 has no rubbing, and b4.2 with b44 arms has none, but with stock arms, it had alittle.
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Yankee
when you get the chance ? Maybe compare your camber link length to someone who has it the factory way . Your link will be longer to achieve the proper camber angle for the tire . Just wanted you to know ....:batman: |
Originally Posted by the incubus
(Post 12453952)
You guys do realize this is not new, right?
Dubro has been making these forever and is what I went to on my original RC10 because every ball cup I'd try would pop off. Slapped these on and they are still on that damn car and are just as good as day one. Xray has been using these forever also. Xray have always been a robust car in my opinion, but to expensive for my blood. I'll stick with the AE buggy because its a great buggy and the parts are so available & cheap. But I'll snag some item off the serpant or X-buggy to make the 4.2 a little more robust. I think the Serpant buggy will be available before the XRay buggy. Also I like the fact that AE really didn't jump on the MM bandwagon like most of these manufactures did...!!!:sneaky: |
Originally Posted by chevmaro
(Post 12454031)
I thought the kit arms were the 44 arms?
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Originally Posted by the incubus
(Post 12453952)
You guys do realize this is not new, right?
Dubro has been making these forever and is what I went to on my original RC10 because every ball cup I'd try would pop off. Slapped these on and they are still on that damn car and are just as good as day one. |
Not true, Ball links have been made in different sizes for ages. One of my friends got tired of his 410's cups popping off and went with Ball links and hasn't had an issue since. Using Ball links removes all slop because they get torqued down and there is just about no play.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...k+++&search=Go here is my 25+year old RC10 with 25 year old Ball Links: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...s200638b7.jpeg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...s04f062f1.jpeg As you can see they are no more bulky or bigger than regular ball cups. The ones on the rear are the heavy duty ones and even then, they's just a tad thicker all around. |
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