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-   -   Team Associated B4.2 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/694124-team-associated-b4-2-thread.html)

Nicholas Muelle 08-16-2013 10:28 AM

why dont they just make bull cups that screw on so they stay on. Mine keep coming off ever race!! And im not even hitting anything!! what are some suggestions as too which will stay on?

RED-LINE M03 08-16-2013 10:41 AM


Originally Posted by Nicholas Muelle (Post 12453832)
why dont they just make bull cups that screw on so they stay on. Mine keep coming off ever race!! And im not even hitting anything!! what are some suggestions as too which will stay on?

I might try the new Serpant Syder ball studs and ball cups on my 4.2.
Zoom in on the front and have a look.

http://www.liverc.com/news/announcem...offroad_buggy/

Wattsup23 08-16-2013 10:46 AM


Originally Posted by RED-LINE M03 (Post 12453869)
I might try the new Serpant Syder ball studs and ball cups on my 4.2.
Zoom in on the front and have a look.

http://www.liverc.com/news/announcem...offroad_buggy/

I plan on doing this. I have seen billy eastons proto type car and the ball studs are very nice!

DanielC. 08-16-2013 10:55 AM

I am not easy on my b4 by any means, and the new JC cups have stated on pretty much all of the time, except once where I ripped an arm clear off the car. No complaints here.

the incubus 08-16-2013 11:07 AM


Originally Posted by Wattsup23 (Post 12453889)
I plan on doing this. I have seen billy eastons proto type car and the ball studs are very nice!

You guys do realize this is not new, right?

Dubro has been making these forever and is what I went to on my original RC10 because every ball cup I'd try would pop off. Slapped these on and they are still on that damn car and are just as good as day one.

YankeeFan123 08-16-2013 11:22 AM


Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 12453780)
I don't seem to need to do all that, all works nice and smooth no binding or rub .

I use the factory's recommended shim's however ...
maybe that's why ?

Been using 2 x.030 stud washer's on the bottom shock eye , other wise rubbing happens for me .

I had the recommended washers on, there was no binding it just looked like it was bending the shock at an angle..oh we'll it's fixed now

Wild Cherry 08-16-2013 11:26 AM

Yankee

Are sure its ok ?

Way you have it now ?

Can switch back including the hub to the way the factory says ?

Snap back on the camber link & note
the change in the rear wheel camber angle ...;)

YankeeFan123 08-16-2013 11:32 AM


Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 12454005)
Yankee

Are sure its ok ?

Way you have it now ?

Can switch back including the hub to the way the factory says ?

Snap back on the camber link & note
the change in the rear wheel camber angle ...;)

Once I put it on the backside I readjusted everything to the way I run it..it's all good now:)

Jake S 08-16-2013 11:34 AM

on both my sc10.2 and b4.2 i run 1mm on the lower shock eyelet. sc10.2 has no rubbing, and b4.2 with b44 arms has none, but with stock arms, it had alittle.

chevmaro 08-16-2013 11:37 AM


Originally Posted by Jake S (Post 12454027)
on both my sc10.2 and b4.2 i run 1mm on the lower shock eyelet. sc10.2 has no rubbing, and b4.2 with b44 arms has none, but with stock arms, it had alittle.

I thought the kit arms were the 44 arms?

Wild Cherry 08-16-2013 11:37 AM

Yankee
when you get the chance ?


Maybe compare your camber link
length to someone who has it the factory way .

Your link will be longer to achieve the proper
camber angle for the tire .

Just wanted you to know ....:batman:

RED-LINE M03 08-16-2013 11:38 AM


Originally Posted by the incubus (Post 12453952)
You guys do realize this is not new, right?

Dubro has been making these forever and is what I went to on my original RC10 because every ball cup I'd try would pop off. Slapped these on and they are still on that damn car and are just as good as day one.

Yes sir I know....
Xray has been using these forever also.
Xray have always been a robust car in my opinion, but to expensive for my blood. I'll stick with the AE buggy because its a great buggy and the parts are so available & cheap. But I'll snag some item off the serpant or X-buggy to make the 4.2 a little more robust. I think the Serpant buggy will be available before the XRay buggy. Also I like the fact that AE really didn't jump on the MM bandwagon like most of these manufactures did...!!!:sneaky:

Jake S 08-16-2013 11:39 AM


Originally Posted by chevmaro (Post 12454031)
I thought the kit arms were the 44 arms?

they are the same design (both sway bar mounts), but the first run of b4.2 kits the arms are noticeably more flexible then b44 arms.

Wattsup23 08-16-2013 12:00 PM


Originally Posted by the incubus (Post 12453952)
You guys do realize this is not new, right?

Dubro has been making these forever and is what I went to on my original RC10 because every ball cup I'd try would pop off. Slapped these on and they are still on that damn car and are just as good as day one.

I do relaize this, we use them on our air plane. However they are bulk and not design for a 1/10 scale off road vehicle. That is why i will be getting the ones serpent will be coming out with.

the incubus 08-16-2013 01:00 PM

Not true, Ball links have been made in different sizes for ages. One of my friends got tired of his 410's cups popping off and went with Ball links and hasn't had an issue since. Using Ball links removes all slop because they get torqued down and there is just about no play.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...k+++&search=Go



here is my 25+year old RC10 with 25 year old Ball Links:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...s200638b7.jpeg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...s04f062f1.jpeg


As you can see they are no more bulky or bigger than regular ball cups. The ones on the rear are the heavy duty ones and even then, they's just a tad thicker all around.


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