R/C Tech Forums - Team Associated B4.2 Thread

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I just put the A hub on the back side of the hub. I couldn't do that with the A/C AVID hub, but when I went to the Associated A hub I forgot I could do that! So much clearance!

Quote:

Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore (Post 12451705)

I'm running no washer at all on the bottom. I have only Minimal slight discoloration . I am usin the short standoffs on top with the corner edge shaved off slightly. Never broke a tower this way either.

Using 2 x.030 on the bottom shock eye :batman:

no shaveN tower's , been using the plastic RTR shock bushing just flip around so its close to the tower as possible .

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 12451997)

Using 2 x.030 on the bottom shock eye :batman:

no shaveN tower's , been using the plastic RTR shock bushing just flip around so its close to the tower as possible .

When I used to have that it seemed to bend my shock so much that it made it sort of permanent where when I would compress it it would go in the shock body at an angle

Quote:

Originally Posted by YankeeFan123 (Post 12451993)

I just put the A hub on the back side of the hub. I couldn't do that with the A/C AVID hub, but when I went to the Associated A hub I forgot I could do that! So much clearance!

the AE A carbon upper clears well? flipped

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 12452143)

the AE A carbon upper clears well? flipped

Yes flipped on the backside. I was bummed because I wanted to run the A hubs and all there was was either the thick A hub or the AVID A/C and neither could be mounted on the back but now with the Associated A hub it clears fine

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevmaro (Post 12451946)

They are garbage dont waste your money. I use chapstick on the threads of my cups and they still pop when adjusting. I lost 3 ballcups racing saturday and 2 on wed. I lost one ballcup just overshooting the tripple and landing in the flat. I did take them off once or twice to adjust diff and inner washers stuff like that. They felt a lot tighter when first assembled but after removing them a couple times they felt really loose. The front ballcups never popped but I never removed them either.

On the plus side they do clearence the turn buckle enough to run hubs forward, no washer on shock eyelet and no rubbing.

I am working on the buggy tonight rebuilding them with trusty RPM's. I will deal with the shock rubbing a different way. I cant remember the last time I lost an RPM cup honestly.

I was afraid of that. I did not like the way they felt popping on so I figured they might pop off easy. Thanks for the input!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Waflet (Post 12447251)

Hideeho
You run nitro's on a 60'x45' track:eek:!? We're 95'x55' & the nitro guys do nothing but whine & complain about it. I can only imagine what they say about your track:flaming::rolleyes:.

When you have no place to run in winter you go where you can.

Quote:

Originally Posted by the incubus (Post 12447268)

Tom, if you're breaking your rear tower, I'm assuming you're landing on your lid on the landing end of that triple. Not sure how adept you are at rotating your whip in the air via throttle and braking, but if not, that is a skill that is essential so you're best served to learn how to make adjustments in the air to avoid braking any more big components like the shock towers. Of course you can never assure 100% success but, practice makes perfect.

Another thing to keep in mind that you don't have to clear the triple in a single jump and perhaps you need to break it down to suit your ability and speed and work your way up to be able to clear it in one jump. I have a hard time with a really off pace double/triple combo at my local track but when I make it a point to take that section well, I take the last turn into the double wide at a reduced speed, and then power through the triple which I take batter than most. If I don't do this, I can lose a few seconds per lap.

The key is steady at the max speed you can handle. No need to go at all out blistering speeds the whole way around the track. Save those bursts of all out speed for wide open areas you can handle.

I would say I am an experienced driver now with moderate skill. I have driver 2wd electric a lot just not buggy. I do know how to control pitch in the air with both 2wd and 8th scales which is why I was commenting on breaking my towers so much. In two testing sessions I have broken three towers all on the same jump landing a little too flat. Yes I did flip the car a few times while tuning and learning the big triple. I have my slipper fairly loose as well which is impacting the run up to the first jump. Also one of my towers was broken by an 8 th scale that plowed into me and sent me over the triple so that does't count.

After the last race I spent some time driving the car with my best set-up and was able to clear the triple more consistent and land correctly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by F18engineguy (Post 12452487)

I was afraid of that. I did not like the way they felt popping on so I figured they might pop off easy. Thanks for the input!

Not disputing anyone else's experience but my 8 year old son and I ran the new Jconcepts ball cups indoor club racing last week with zero issues. They move freely, have very little slop, are stiff enough and none popped off even though my son spent the first hour of practice trying to figure out the the triple. Also, given you don't need to take them on and off much due to the ball stud access holes I think they will last a while.

No ball cup design is 'perfect' -- there always is a compromise among a variety of considerations. The RPM's are very good also -- but I have from time to time popped one off, especially on my B44.2.

Quote:

Originally Posted by YankeeFan123 (Post 12452147)

hmm, I wonder they the avisd has issues? Is it taller above the holes? from the pictures, they look about the same.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 12453102)

hmm, I wonder they the avisd has issues? Is it taller above the holes? from the pictures, they look about the same.

Yes it is taller than the Associated hubs so it hits the wheel

Hello everyone, got some questions for you fine folks. I'll be returning from Afghanistan here in a few weeks and while here, I've been on an rc shopping spree to say the least. New servos, recievers, speedos, batteries, motors, and kits. Before I left, I sold almost all of my vehicles so that theydidnt sit and so I had an excuse to buy all this new stuff. I've spent some time reading this thread and getting an idea of what I need to do while I'm buildin my B4.2 but my question is about a setup. I wil be running on an outdoor 1/8 scale track thats got low traction during the day when its dry and some decent traction at night when its wet. Can anyone give me a good place to start with my buggy? Also, give me some input on anything you think is a mandatory fix or modification I should do while building the car. Thanks for your help and input in advance.

There is an app for android called b4.2 essentials, u can get a good idea from them!!!

Ok so I've been going over my B4 and setting everything to the factory specs. The result of this is -2 deg camber in the back and....-5 deg in the front. I measured the camber links several times and am in the kit hole (inside at the tower with 2 washers and hole A at the caster block). Why do I have so much negative camber in the front using the factory setup?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grasschopper (Post 12453215)

-5? I run -1 deg, or did you mean -.5?