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-   -   Team Associated B4.2 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/694124-team-associated-b4-2-thread.html)

chevmaro 08-13-2013 11:39 AM


Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 12442883)
I go about 6 to 8 weeks , I run the car 15 to 20 runs a week .

I replace the out drives , CVA & bearings, transmission gears , diff ring..

Still using the same thrust for almost 8 months now ...

If you are running on dusty outdoor ?

space a small bit of cotton from Q tip under the thrust seal cap .

What do your outdrives look like when you replace them? Mine do not show wear 8 weeks in.

BryanJ 08-13-2013 11:44 AM

8 weeks with no wear must be stock racing?

Any car I've ever had with 10+ runs/week would have notchy outdrives after that much time and be noticeably unpredictable handling-wise until they were replaced.

metalnut 08-13-2013 01:29 PM

How much slop do you guys have in the dogbone couplings before you replace them? My rear wheels have enough slop in them that I can rotate them a significant amount back and forth without moving the outdrive. It seems to be coming from the coupling by the looks of it. I'm guessing it's time for new dogbones?

Wildcat1971 08-13-2013 01:37 PM

My drive terrain is solid after a year. But I run stock on low bite

ryanpatrickgore 08-13-2013 02:08 PM

Yea the mod drivers are the ones who are really tearing up the out drives.

YankeeFan123 08-13-2013 03:05 PM


Originally Posted by metalnut (Post 12443629)
How much slop do you guys have in the dogbone couplings before you replace them? My rear wheels have enough slop in them that I can rotate them a significant amount back and forth without moving the outdrive. It seems to be coming from the coupling by the looks of it. I'm guessing it's time for new dogbones?

Mine are like that also where there's a significant amount of play. I would think the out drives and dogbones would have to be replaced at the same time or else the worn dogbones would wear out the new out drives and vice versa

YankeeFan123 08-13-2013 03:06 PM

Also, if anyone wants my XP 1015 servo that started to crap out on me for parts or you know how to take it all apart and find the problem, PM me and I'll give it to you, just pay for shipping to wherever.

ChrisAttebery 08-13-2013 03:20 PM

How big is the track you're running on?


Originally Posted by YankeeFan123 (Post 12441531)
I run 33/72 with 39* timing with my SchuurSpeed


YankeeFan123 08-13-2013 03:27 PM


Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery (Post 12443973)
How big is the track you're running on?

Not sure, pretty decent sized tracks, OCRC or West Coast in SoCal

Jsaves 08-13-2013 03:59 PM

Loose Track set up?
 
Wildcat1971,

What set up are you using? I run on an out door drying loose track. It has a hard pan underneath and a loose silt on top.
I am running the following set up.

Tires - m3 hole shot fronts, green goose bumps rear & stock foam on both.

Front :
Shocks - Green spring, 2 x 1.6 flat, 30 wt, 1 tower, O arm
tie rod - 1 in (2mm washer) and A out 30 deg. caster
Rear:
Shocks - White spring, 2x 1.6 flat, 27.5 wt., 1 tower, I arm
tie rod - 1 in (2mm washer) and B out, 0 deg. hub
This Steven Hartson set up

The buggy is loose on power
Thanks for any help
God Bless

trixter91 08-13-2013 04:09 PM

We run on a medium size track with a few decent straights and a few small jumps. I was thinking of replacing my full size packs with some shorty packs . I was told that the b4 was light and worked better with the full size packs as opposed to shortys. Anybody know what the benefit of a shorty vs a full size is other than the weight.

Wildcat1971 08-13-2013 04:39 PM


Originally Posted by Jsaves (Post 12444085)
Wildcat1971,

What set up are you using? I run on an out door drying loose track. It has a hard pan underneath and a loose silt on top.
I am running the following set up.

Tires - m3 hole shot fronts, green goose bumps rear & stock foam on both.

Front :
Shocks - Green spring, 2 x 1.6 flat, 30 wt, 1 tower, O arm
tie rod - 1 in (2mm washer) and A out 30 deg. caster
Rear:
Shocks - White spring, 2x 1.6 flat, 27.5 wt., 1 tower, I arm
tie rod - 1 in (2mm washer) and B out, 0 deg. hub
This Steven Hartson set up

The buggy is loose on power
Thanks for any help
God Bless

IMO, white is too stiff in the rear, I would go green. I really dont like the 1.6 pistons much at all. My personal favorites are the 1.4x3 pistons. If they are too pricey for you, try the 1.7's with 37.5/32.5 oils.

Wild Cherry 08-13-2013 04:56 PM


Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore (Post 12443746)
Yea the mod drivers are the ones who are really tearing up the out drives.

Naaa , just the amount of runs ....

Maybe stock wears a little less but not much less....

17.5 is nothing but a mild mod motor these days ...


All new parts make for consistent cornering & forward traction at it best .

Wild Cherry 08-13-2013 05:02 PM


Originally Posted by trixter91 (Post 12444112)
We run on a medium size track with a few decent straights and a few small jumps. I was thinking of replacing my full size packs with some shorty packs . I was told that the b4 was light and worked better with the full size packs as opposed to shortys. Anybody know what the benefit of a shorty vs a full size is other than the weight.


Car handles & traction is much the same as a with full size pack.

Jumping & landings are improved ....

trixter91 08-13-2013 05:15 PM


Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 12444262)
Car handles & traction is much the same as a with full size pack.

Jumping & landings are improved ....

So do u suggest using shortys over full size packs.


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