You can try if you wish, but your going to have a hard time keeping your diff from slipping or even working at all. A ball diff works just fine with no "diff lube" on the main balls and rings.

Are you going 15-20 runs without cleaning, and relubing your diff? If so, you're wasting your time entirely. There's a massive difference between a diff with 1 day's worth of running, versus one with a month's worth of running. Ideally, I'd clean and lube before every race day, but more often, I do it ever 3-4 race days. Even though the diff stays relatively smooth, cornering will suffer.

But don't you at least flip the rings or use new rings with every clean and lube? That's the one piece I always change when doing a diff. I've never gotten a smooth diff with reused grooved rings.

I have re-lubed maybe once or twice every month or the day of a big race. I inspect the rings and I've been using the same rings with the groove as long as the groove is a clean groove I will re-use them. running ceramic so it always runs smooth. (never had it slipped since learning from BK how to build them the way he does)

dont bother reinventing the wheel, just go with it. the formula that the pros use is dialed

The only Lube I have been seriously thinking about using is Dow33. I have plenty of experience with this lube in the world of Paintball because it is the most readily available one in the industry. However, Dow33 is not the correct lube to use in Paintball because even though it works well, it is not specifically engineered for use with pressurized air valves and the like.

Dow33 is specifically engineered bearing grease and it's slick and maintains that slickness even when most of the lithium base has been expelled, leaving behind that black soot, which is the product of carbon residue, which is part of what makes it so slick.

I'm not sure how well it will work, but I'd expect it would do quite well and would easily last longer than 10 long runs without a drop in performance.

Personally ?
I don't rebuild the diff until the out drives are hobbed out & CVA's are toast .

The diff will out last those parts & stay smooth
using the Ae ceramic balls.:)

Are the kit diff balls carbide? Or only carbide when you buy the replacement balls?

WCRC Clay and wrong Panther Rattlers!
 

I use the standard BarCode/Suburb combo. But, upon recommendations, I got a set of Panther Rattlers for the rear to try out. I wouldn't have believed ANYONE if they'd told me how slippery a tire could be. It was as if my car was on ice; the rear end was so slippery that ANY input from the steering would spin the car!!

The other day, I ran into the Panther rep and explained the deal. After looking at the Rattlers, he exclaimed, "OH NO, THESE ARE THE OLD SERIES...DON'T USE THEM!!" He gave me a set of the NEW VERSION, with different compound (still clay) and a slightly different pattern. THIS MADE ALL THE DIFFERENCE...even new, the tires really hooked up nicely.

So, don't ever discount how important your tires are. The wrong compound/tread will make everything else pointless.

My $.02

+1 build it right the first time with the high quality components and break it in properly and it will last a long time. Mine is 2 months old and still feels like new. Racing 1-2 times a week and a practice session.

Also I have panthers in my sc and they were complete garbage untill I wore of 60% if the tread. Now they are just subpar...
Never buying them again but the foams are really nice.

Ryan

Don't feel the Panthers are all that bad , just their compound does not perform well for TRCR ...


Note of interest :

compare Panthers Orange insert for buggy...

smaller in diameter next to the Sweep , AKA ,ect...

Honestly, I hardly ever change rings/balls with my AE cars. Usually before a big race/race weekend, otherwise I don't bother unless I bark a diff or something.

When I ran Losi I would change them at least once a month.

for me, conditions are such that we service the diff more than what those running indoor high traction do. But in general, its not some every race type of deal.

Hideeho
Either I'm not as rough on my out drives or I don't rebuild the dif as well as he does because my dif doesn't out live my out drives, but I have over 2 months current rebuild & it's still smooth (not as smooth as new, but still very smooth). My ceramic balls are from f18engineguy (best price on the best balls I've found).

I go about 6 to 8 weeks , I run the car 15 to 20 runs a week .

I replace the out drives , CVA & bearings, transmission gears , diff ring..

Still using the same thrust for almost 8 months now ...

If you are running on dusty outdoor ?

space a small bit of cotton from Q tip under the thrust seal cap .