17LikesTekno SCT410 Thread
08-23-2014, 06:10 PM
Tech Initiate
08-23-2014, 09:17 PM
Not sure why so many guys run the Savox servos, maybe price? I run HiTec on my 4wd and 1/8th scale stuff. I have the 7945TH in my sct410 but if I were to buy one now it would be the HSB-9370TH. The new ProTek 170's are sweet too.
08-24-2014, 10:06 AM
So I'm pretty happy with my current setup but the track is a large indoor track with big jumps and my question is this. Unless I over shoot my landings and land out in the flat I would say my pack is good, but if I do over shoot it slap goes the chassis. Unfortunately I just got back racing after almost 3 yrs so I do it more then I dont. I don't know if I should set it up with more pack to help save the truck but possibly make it shitty everywhere else on the track or leave it be. The only thing I'm worried about as far as parts is my BCE chassis that I can no longer buy if I did bend it or something. Any thoughts? How do u guys determine how much pack to build into the shocks?
08-24-2014, 10:10 AM
08-24-2014, 10:13 AM
08-24-2014, 10:40 AM
Anyone running dirtwebs, if so what foams are you running. The stock jconcepts foams is a little soft and breaks down fast, and the dirttech for the 8th scale doesn't fit well either. Thinking aka reds will probably be best.
08-24-2014, 11:13 AM
First off, I built the shocks exactly as the instructions say but both of my rear shocks leaked badly. No problems with the front ones. Going in for a rebuild this evening with the derlin guides and new o rings of course. Not sure what happened with the rear shocks, the seals looked fine visually. Any pointers from y'all as I go back together and, has any one else had this experience? Seems as though I remember some talk of this sort of thing some pages back or in another forum. Also, this happened from the beginning so not just a wear issue, in fact, I've yet to actually run the truck at all.
Mine stay pretty dry for a bunch of days of driving and then they will get scratched and leak a little... but not much at all.
I have replaced orings probably 3 times in almost a year.
AKA reds are what I've used for the past couple years (black is too firm IMO). The JC or PL foams are done in a couple days of driving under the weight of this truck (and my old Mugen). That may be ok at an outdoor track where tires last a day or two but since you're talking an indoor tire I assume you will get many days out of them and want your foams to do the same.
08-24-2014, 02:41 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
Technical Carpet Setup
I am still getting used to this awesome truck. I drove it on a dirt track last week and it handles incredibly. I drove it on a carpeted track today and it nose dived on every kicker.
The setup is largely stock and I am using Proline BeadLocks with PinPoints all around. I believe that the BeadLocks may be making the truck out of balance.
I ask you all, what would you recommend? I am using a Tekin RX8 and a HW 3635 4000 kv motor along with a Savox 1258tg servo.
Ideally I don't want two radically different setups for each track.
The setup is largely stock and I am using Proline BeadLocks with PinPoints all around. I believe that the BeadLocks may be making the truck out of balance.
I ask you all, what would you recommend? I am using a Tekin RX8 and a HW 3635 4000 kv motor along with a Savox 1258tg servo.
Ideally I don't want two radically different setups for each track.
08-24-2014, 03:21 PM
Most of the carpet tracks I've seen online have short abrupt jump faces, that may just require a retrain your brain and approach it smoother.
What pinion are you using with the 4000? If its less than 17 it's probably too small and there is no throttle left once you leave the face of the jump. Temps allowing, 18 would probably be best... maybe even 19
(again, temps allowing)
What pinion are you using with the 4000? If its less than 17 it's probably too small and there is no throttle left once you leave the face of the jump. Temps allowing, 18 would probably be best... maybe even 19
(again, temps allowing)
08-24-2014, 03:47 PM
I am still getting used to this awesome truck. I drove it on a dirt track last week and it handles incredibly. I drove it on a carpeted track today and it nose dived on every kicker.
The setup is largely stock and I am using Proline BeadLocks with PinPoints all around. I believe that the BeadLocks may be making the truck out of balance.
I ask you all, what would you recommend? I am using a Tekin RX8 and a HW 3635 4000 kv motor along with a Savox 1258tg servo.
Ideally I don't want two radically different setups for each track.
The setup is largely stock and I am using Proline BeadLocks with PinPoints all around. I believe that the BeadLocks may be making the truck out of balance.
I ask you all, what would you recommend? I am using a Tekin RX8 and a HW 3635 4000 kv motor along with a Savox 1258tg servo.
Ideally I don't want two radically different setups for each track.
You have to find balance. Drive over a hose or similar object and look how the rear behaves. Try out different spring/oil/piston combos. Does it kick like a mule or does it go over smoothly. It's not necessarily a stiffer rear spring but the relation front to rear.
Maybe try black front and pink rear with 6x1.5 pistons and little lighter oil than stock. Check if chassis slaps on takeoff. If it does go up in oils.
08-24-2014, 04:22 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
Pinion 18-19 as FQ stated. Battery in rear. More front droop. 25-26mm ride height. Dirt and Carpet are on opposite sides of setup and have to compromise.
You have to find balance. Drive over a hose or similar object and look how the rear behaves. Try out different spring/oil/piston combos. Does it kick like a mule or does it go over smoothly. It's not necessarily a stiffer rear spring but the relation front to rear.
Maybe try black front and pink rear with 6x1.5 pistons and little lighter oil than stock. Check if chassis slaps on takeoff. If it does go up in oils.
You have to find balance. Drive over a hose or similar object and look how the rear behaves. Try out different spring/oil/piston combos. Does it kick like a mule or does it go over smoothly. It's not necessarily a stiffer rear spring but the relation front to rear.
Maybe try black front and pink rear with 6x1.5 pistons and little lighter oil than stock. Check if chassis slaps on takeoff. If it does go up in oils.
08-24-2014, 09:57 PM
Tech Initiate
And ide have to agree carpet vs dirt is a world of difference. You will most likely need to makes shock oil, spring, droop, shock positioning, and ride height changes.
Best of luck racing!
08-24-2014, 10:17 PM
Check the 1st page for the battery tray mod.
08-24-2014, 11:05 PM
I use 17t on very small indoor tracks and 19t almost everywhere else with a SCT-Pro and 4000kv HW motor.
08-25-2014, 01:45 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
The battery holder has actually 3 position in stock form. Front, middle and back. It's done with removing holder and adjusting the center strap or with a foam insert. It has a surprisingly large effect on steering and jumping abilities.Usually it's on the back but on indoor small technical tracks I move it to the middle and adjust throttle on jumps. I haven't done the battery mod because I suspect it will take away steering too much and isn't needed on outdoor tracks IMHO.
I use 17t on very small indoor tracks and 19t almost everywhere else with a SCT-Pro and 4000kv HW motor.
I use 17t on very small indoor tracks and 19t almost everywhere else with a SCT-Pro and 4000kv HW motor.
I will have to play with the battery strap. Does the manual list the options?
I was under the impression that using a large pinion would make my electronics too hot. I entered my Slash 4x4 info into that RC speed calculator (Slash had the equipment now in the SCT410) and then changed the gear ratio information to match the SCT410, I saw that there was a 10 mph speed drop which seems accurate when I drive it.
How hot do your electronics get when you ride with a 19t pinion?