nanoverse

Internal gear ratio is 4.0 and the usable range for a 4000kv is 17-19. 19 gives a FDR of 9.27. The 4000kv has so much torque that overgearing a little makes a better throttle feel.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

funny, I think I was down to around 13 or 14T pinion on a 4000Kv motor when I ran on the tight carpet track here. But it was TINY with really abrupt jumps. some vid of this is on youtube prior to a piston change.

I think I still have the setup around I kind of settled on too if anyone would like it, just let me know. would love to have tweaked it more but no carpet indoors with hour or so driving.

Tibbar110

iTrader: (7)

I have 18 and 19 tooth pinions on order. The 19T would bring my FDR close to what I was running in my Slash 4x4.

Should I expect a lot of heat with the larger pinions? I can go down to a 14T without needing to buy addition gears. I thought that reducing the FDR increased acceleration and decreases top speed. In a small track, wouldn't better acceleration be more useful?

jwill05

iTrader: (6)

When gearing higher be sure to check your temps.

fq06

iTrader: (12)

You should have no problems at all with heat. That motor runs very cool, you actually may have more heat with a 13-14 than 18-19 just because the motor will spend more of its time at peak rpm with the lower pinion sizes.
I also don't think you will be lacking any torque with the higher gearing and you may like the power delivery a little better.

My temp guess is 130°-140° with 18-19

Hoese37

iTrader: (5)

The lower the KV, the higher the efficiency, so you can gear it up a bit more while not getting up in temp.

Tibbar110

iTrader: (7)

Thanks everybody. I have the 18-19T on order. I will try the 17T today.

Nemaris

iTrader: (18)

The 16 and 17 tooth pinions worked great for the Tekin 4600 as well. I originally was at 14, but found on even tighter tracks that a 16 gave the best over all feel.

Tibbar110

iTrader: (7)

I just took my truck through medium to high grass for a pack and the motor and ESC did not get hotter than 132 degrees with a 17 tooth. I'll try the 18 and 19 when they come.

Nemaris

iTrader: (18)

Hey Cain I just got the Kyosho 1.3x6 hole pistons. I am about to drill them out to 1.5mm but I can't find a precise bit to do it with. I have a drill bit that follows wire gauge sizes. It's a 53, but the 53 is technically a 1.51mm. If that is x6 that means the surface area is 9.06mm overall instead of 9mm. Is that going to make a big deal, should I just buy a specific 1.5mm drill bit instead?

Stitch 78

Thanks, I ended up going with the Green! I read a lot of good things about both!

Matthew_Armeni

iTrader: (31)

It should have come out to 10.74mm, .14mm more surface area than the 6x1.5mm (10.6mm), which is barely more than a 1% increase in total surface area. The 53 drill bit you have will be fine
Worst case is you have to go up in oil maybe 2.5 wt or ~50-100 cst.

Also, if anyone was looking for piston drill sets, here's a link to some on A-Main's site.

Nemaris

iTrader: (18)

You're right, I forgot to account for the overall area instead of just the diameter lol. Thanks for reassuring me that it won't make too big of a difference!

wreckya

iTrader: (1)

Right now I'm running 8x1.3's & 37 1/2 oil F and 8x1.4's & 35 R. So your saying go to the 6x1.5's all the way around with the same oil just to increase the pack. And hope I don't loose too much traction on a medium traction track? I run center brace but not rear, your saying run the rear without the screw in the diff case? What is that gonna do for me? Any reason I should try the new pistons instead of just running thicker oil? Thanks

Rcnutz1977

Hi, getting back into rc after many years away. Awesome thread with an amazing amount of info!
Bought truck 2nd hand pretty much new but built. Having been going over checking set up and have a couple of questions?
First. Rear camber is visibly different left to right. Have just had camber links out and checked length. Identical. Correctly installed in stock set up positions and still different side to side? Am missing something? Anything else that affects this I can check or should I just adjust this using the links. This would mean one link longer than the other to make both side the same, which seems odd.
Lastly I've read heaps about set ups great info. No one seems to ever mention how far up or down the shock body they have top spring collar? Surely this would have massive affect on spring rate?there is a good 20mm of thread you can use to squeeze spring. Is there a standard number of thread down people are working off?
Thanks in advance