Xray XB4 thread
#9693
yes i have read page in the book like 10 tens and i still dont understand it.
I guess where I get lost is if for example, if you get the inserts that have the dots in the middle but toward the inside it say -1.5 track, well what would the Anti Squat and Roll Center and Toe In? sorry if this is a really dumb question i am normally good at this stuff but just dont get there system. thank
I guess where I get lost is if for example, if you get the inserts that have the dots in the middle but toward the inside it say -1.5 track, well what would the Anti Squat and Roll Center and Toe In? sorry if this is a really dumb question i am normally good at this stuff but just dont get there system. thank
The original posting was in regards to an earlier version of the buggy, but the concept is the same on any of the XRAY vehicles using the same eccentric system (T4, XB8, XB4, XB2). The key to remember is that roll center and track width are dependent on the "absolute" position of the hinge pin; meaning if you move the pin in/out or up/down, those settings change. The toe or antisquat/kickup are based on the relative position of the front and rear inserts as it is the angle of the pin the alters these adjustment, not the location.
If that doesn't help (or maybe makes it worse!) feel free to call us at the shop and I will be happy to help.
- Bryan
#9694
Re: twitchiness
This past weekend, I ran into this issue on medium-bite clay in the A-main, so I went for some practice tonight to see if I could ease some of it out of the car, here's the things I did:
1) Remove some multi-flex screws
2) Ackermann to the forward position
3) Back to the 9* caster blocks from the 12*
4) Layed down the front shocks all the way (inner hole tower, outer hole arms).
I often overlook the multi-flex stuff, but it made a huge change in the way the car handled and really toned down the twitchiness of the car. However, it did not affect the low speed steering of the car in a layout with a bunch of 180s, the car was very stable but didn't push at all.
I'm not convinced about the 12* blocks on clay, the steering coming out is noticeable, but can be too much sometimes (layout has a lot of 180's, so you would think it would be beneficial). I'll keep them around in case I run some carpet.
I would like to try thicker fluid in the front and rear diffs too, just didn't have enough time. Changing diff fluids is a PITA though to do on race day, I really wanted to focus on things that can be easily changed between heats.
This past weekend, I ran into this issue on medium-bite clay in the A-main, so I went for some practice tonight to see if I could ease some of it out of the car, here's the things I did:
1) Remove some multi-flex screws
2) Ackermann to the forward position
3) Back to the 9* caster blocks from the 12*
4) Layed down the front shocks all the way (inner hole tower, outer hole arms).
I often overlook the multi-flex stuff, but it made a huge change in the way the car handled and really toned down the twitchiness of the car. However, it did not affect the low speed steering of the car in a layout with a bunch of 180s, the car was very stable but didn't push at all.
I'm not convinced about the 12* blocks on clay, the steering coming out is noticeable, but can be too much sometimes (layout has a lot of 180's, so you would think it would be beneficial). I'll keep them around in case I run some carpet.
I would like to try thicker fluid in the front and rear diffs too, just didn't have enough time. Changing diff fluids is a PITA though to do on race day, I really wanted to focus on things that can be easily changed between heats.
#9695
Re: twitchiness
This past weekend, I ran into this issue on medium-bite clay in the A-main, so I went for some practice tonight to see if I could ease some of it out of the car, here's the things I did:
1) Remove some multi-flex screws
2) Ackermann to the forward position
3) Back to the 9* caster blocks from the 12*
4) Layed down the front shocks all the way (inner hole tower, outer hole arms).
I often overlook the multi-flex stuff, but it made a huge change in the way the car handled and really toned down the twitchiness of the car. However, it did not affect the low speed steering of the car in a layout with a bunch of 180s, the car was very stable but didn't push at all.
I'm not convinced about the 12* blocks on clay, the steering coming out is noticeable, but can be too much sometimes (layout has a lot of 180's, so you would think it would be beneficial). I'll keep them around in case I run some carpet.
I would like to try thicker fluid in the front and rear diffs too, just didn't have enough time. Changing diff fluids is a PITA though to do on race day, I really wanted to focus on things that can be easily changed between heats.
This past weekend, I ran into this issue on medium-bite clay in the A-main, so I went for some practice tonight to see if I could ease some of it out of the car, here's the things I did:
1) Remove some multi-flex screws
2) Ackermann to the forward position
3) Back to the 9* caster blocks from the 12*
4) Layed down the front shocks all the way (inner hole tower, outer hole arms).
I often overlook the multi-flex stuff, but it made a huge change in the way the car handled and really toned down the twitchiness of the car. However, it did not affect the low speed steering of the car in a layout with a bunch of 180s, the car was very stable but didn't push at all.
I'm not convinced about the 12* blocks on clay, the steering coming out is noticeable, but can be too much sometimes (layout has a lot of 180's, so you would think it would be beneficial). I'll keep them around in case I run some carpet.
I would like to try thicker fluid in the front and rear diffs too, just didn't have enough time. Changing diff fluids is a PITA though to do on race day, I really wanted to focus on things that can be easily changed between heats.
#9696
More options for your XB4 and XB2:
Bent
New Composite 3-Pad Slipper Clutch Spur Gears
• Exclusive secret blend of composite material
• Precision-molded
• Extra-strong
• Lightweight
• Stamped for easy identification
Precision-molded spur gears for 3-Pad Slipper Clutch, made from XRAY's exclusive secret blend of composite material, allowing the gear to run yet be robust enough to handle high performance brushless motors.
The spur gear is designed to have the lowest possible weight while staying strong and light.
Each gear is stamped with the tooth number for easy identification.
Fit: XB4'15, XB4'16 and XB2.
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...720f83a5c45949
• Exclusive secret blend of composite material
• Precision-molded
• Extra-strong
• Lightweight
• Stamped for easy identification
Precision-molded spur gears for 3-Pad Slipper Clutch, made from XRAY's exclusive secret blend of composite material, allowing the gear to run yet be robust enough to handle high performance brushless motors.
The spur gear is designed to have the lowest possible weight while staying strong and light.
Each gear is stamped with the tooth number for easy identification.
Fit: XB4'15, XB4'16 and XB2.
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...720f83a5c45949
Last edited by BentKa; 12-23-2015 at 01:11 AM.
#9698
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
So, on the rear,
if both dots front and rear are inside, they narrow the track width.
If the front is inside and the rear is center, it adds toe
Now, if you have the width/toe set in mind.
the front rear hanger's are Up(higher than the rear), that will add Anti Squat.
Now, the overall pin height will change roll center.
there are many configurations, start with the book setup and change from there.
if both dots front and rear are inside, they narrow the track width.
If the front is inside and the rear is center, it adds toe
Now, if you have the width/toe set in mind.
the front rear hanger's are Up(higher than the rear), that will add Anti Squat.
Now, the overall pin height will change roll center.
there are many configurations, start with the book setup and change from there.
#9699
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
Hi Randy, I tried to provide some clarification about the system to another racer on the XRAY forum a while ago. I don't know if it helped as I didn't hear back from him, but hopefully it might clarify any confusion you are having. You can find the post here: XRAY Forum
The original posting was in regards to an earlier version of the buggy, but the concept is the same on any of the XRAY vehicles using the same eccentric system (T4, XB8, XB4, XB2). The key to remember is that roll center and track width are dependent on the "absolute" position of the hinge pin; meaning if you move the pin in/out or up/down, those settings change. The toe or antisquat/kickup are based on the relative position of the front and rear inserts as it is the angle of the pin the alters these adjustment, not the location.
If that doesn't help (or maybe makes it worse!) feel free to call us at the shop and I will be happy to help.
- Bryan
The original posting was in regards to an earlier version of the buggy, but the concept is the same on any of the XRAY vehicles using the same eccentric system (T4, XB8, XB4, XB2). The key to remember is that roll center and track width are dependent on the "absolute" position of the hinge pin; meaning if you move the pin in/out or up/down, those settings change. The toe or antisquat/kickup are based on the relative position of the front and rear inserts as it is the angle of the pin the alters these adjustment, not the location.
If that doesn't help (or maybe makes it worse!) feel free to call us at the shop and I will be happy to help.
- Bryan
#9700
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (13)
Finally got to run my car for the first time today, all I can say is its the most confidence inspiring car ive ever driven. It is just silky smooth everywhere. I ended up running about 10 batteries through it today, and it was awesome early this morning when the track was dusty. As the day went on the car got more and more loose and I blame it solely on my bad tire selection. My only gripe with the car and its box stock setup is that it seems a little twitchy, I am going to try and leave the front end alone and get the rear end locked in as having a ton of steering is great for these cars. Needless to say, an XB2 dirt edition has been pre-ordered
#9701
I need a little advise on a couple things.
1. For the stock '15 wheels with 14mm hexes what size are the wheels? Are they 2.2's or 60mm (2.4)?
2. What tires would be good for medium/low grip clay other than dirt webs? Something I can order off amain preferably.
3. What tires would I run in outdoor loose dirt tracks?
4. I can not seem to find a '15 body in stock. Will the '16 body fit? I know someone said before the 15 body fits on the 16 so I would assume the 16 will fit on the 15. I know the 16 is just a couple mm wider but that shouldn't be a problem right?
5. If I get the 12mm conversion which offset size do I get for front and rear to maintain the same track widths?
1. For the stock '15 wheels with 14mm hexes what size are the wheels? Are they 2.2's or 60mm (2.4)?
2. What tires would be good for medium/low grip clay other than dirt webs? Something I can order off amain preferably.
3. What tires would I run in outdoor loose dirt tracks?
4. I can not seem to find a '15 body in stock. Will the '16 body fit? I know someone said before the 15 body fits on the 16 so I would assume the 16 will fit on the 15. I know the 16 is just a couple mm wider but that shouldn't be a problem right?
5. If I get the 12mm conversion which offset size do I get for front and rear to maintain the same track widths?
Last edited by Slapjack; 12-24-2015 at 08:17 PM.
#9702
I need a little advise on a couple things.
1. For the stock '15 wheels with 14mm hexes what size are the wheels? Are they 2.2's or 60mm (2.4)?
2. What tires would be good for medium/low grip clay other than dirt webs? Something I can order off amain preferably.
3. What tires would I run in outdoor loose dirt tracks?
4. I can not seem to find a '15 body in stock. Will the '16 body fit? I know someone said before the 15 body fits on the 16 so I would assume the 16 will fit on the 15. I know the 16 is just a couple mm wider but that shouldn't be a problem right?
5. If I get the 12mm conversion which offset size do I get for front and rear to maintain the same track widths?
1. For the stock '15 wheels with 14mm hexes what size are the wheels? Are they 2.2's or 60mm (2.4)?
2. What tires would be good for medium/low grip clay other than dirt webs? Something I can order off amain preferably.
3. What tires would I run in outdoor loose dirt tracks?
4. I can not seem to find a '15 body in stock. Will the '16 body fit? I know someone said before the 15 body fits on the 16 so I would assume the 16 will fit on the 15. I know the 16 is just a couple mm wider but that shouldn't be a problem right?
5. If I get the 12mm conversion which offset size do I get for front and rear to maintain the same track widths?
1. I believe they are 2.2 wheels both now and on the 15 car.
2. My local track is this type of surface and Panther rattlers in super soft on the rear and Panther bobcats work well. If it grooves up, chain links and gold Dirtwebs can work as well as electrons.
3. Outdoor I swear by holeshots. Calibers for practice with the arrows facing forward.
4. Try discountrcstore.com for stock 15 body.
5. Never did this.
#9703
I can answer some of these.
1. I believe they are 2.2 wheels both now and on the 15 car.
2. My local track is this type of surface and Panther rattlers in super soft on the rear and Panther bobcats work well. If it grooves up, chain links and gold Dirtwebs can work as well as electrons.
3. Outdoor I swear by holeshots. Calibers for practice with the arrows facing forward.
4. Try discountrcstore.com for stock 15 body.
5. Never did this.
1. I believe they are 2.2 wheels both now and on the 15 car.
2. My local track is this type of surface and Panther rattlers in super soft on the rear and Panther bobcats work well. If it grooves up, chain links and gold Dirtwebs can work as well as electrons.
3. Outdoor I swear by holeshots. Calibers for practice with the arrows facing forward.
4. Try discountrcstore.com for stock 15 body.
5. Never did this.
#9704
Took the time out of my day to measure the different track widths using the new Xray 12mm hex wheels with the Xray 12mm wheel hexes.
All measurement are done on the '16 XB4 using:
Width using stock 14mm wheel hexes and Xray V2 14mm wheels:
Width using 12mm wheel hexes and Xray 12mm wheels:
Front:
Rear:
Bent
All measurement are done on the '16 XB4 using:
- 20mm ride height (placed on Hudy 20mm droop blocks)
- 3 degree toe-in in the rear
- 1 degree toe-out in the front
- Hinge pin inserts in the middle position front and rear.
- Measured on the rear of the rear wheels (no tires)
- Measured on the front of the front wheels (no tires)
Width using stock 14mm wheel hexes and Xray V2 14mm wheels:
- Front: 245mm
- Rear: 245mm
Width using 12mm wheel hexes and Xray 12mm wheels:
Front:
- #365354 -0.75mm = 242mm
- #365353 0mm = 243,5mm
- #365355 +0.75mm (1 stripe) = 245mm
- #365356 +1.5mm (2 stripe) = 246,5mm
- #365357 +2.25mm (3 stripe) = 248mm
- #365355 +3.00mm (4 stripe) = Not enough threads on axle to secure the wheel nut.
Rear:
- #365353 0mm = 243mm
- #365355 +0.75mm (1 stripe) = 245mm
- #365356 +1.5mm (2 stripe) = 247mm
- #365357 +2.25mm (3 stripe) = 249mm
- #365355 +3.00mm (4 stripe) = 251mm
Bent
Post 9212:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/14256486-post9212.html
And the '16 body fits the '15 just fine and adds a bit of stability as well with the new design
Bent
#9705
Here you go.
Post 9212:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/14256486-post9212.html
And the '16 body fits the '15 just fine and adds a bit of stability as well with the new design
Bent
Post 9212:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/14256486-post9212.html
And the '16 body fits the '15 just fine and adds a bit of stability as well with the new design
Bent
Also just wanted to verify that part no. 369703 is the body with the fin piece in the back (if you know what I'm referring to). Thanks again for your help.