Bcholka

Just ordered the avid pistons--They give some starting points for oils (which I will try) but wanted to get people's thoughts on springs?
It appears to me that spring selections on various drivers setup sheets are all over the place-linear, progressive, 1 dot,2 dot, etc.
Any suggestions for a medium size indoor track with medium traction?? I am of course running emulsion as well.
Thanks!

Bcholka

Double post

seth556

iTrader: (43)

My local track is similar to what you have, I just tried the Bayer setup on my car last weekend and it was the best it's been. He's running 2 dot in the front and 1 dot in the rear. I'm running the AVID pistons and the setup they recommend, works really well.

Bcholka

Thanks so much!! Just nice to have a starting point!!

pekow91

iTrader: (45)

Quick question. I need to replace my bevel gear this weekend and I noticed that the manual calls for graphite grease. I don't have any and was wondering what would be a good substitute. Or is it really necessary to use graphite grease.

seth556

iTrader: (43)

Black grease will work fine.

pekow91

iTrader: (45)

Excellent. Thank you.

coretex

I'm trying to cut costs by using the same wheels on my Kyosho RB5 and XB4. I see that the wheels fit okay in front if I change to Kyosho-hexes, but they do not at the back as the rims are too large. I see OleC says: "you have to drill out the rims and hexes with a 5mm drill bit." but I see nobody that have posted any Kyosho-adaptation at the back-wheels.

Now I see that XB4-wheels seems cheaper than Kyosho-wheels at Amain. I wonder if its better to let my RB5 run XB4-wheels. Do anybody have any comments on this?

Update: I just tried the XB4 rear-wheels on the RB5, and the RB5-rims were just a bit too short. bah.

seth556

iTrader: (43)

I found it's the ring and pinion in the front of the car that has been clicking under hard braking. I put a few shims to tighten up the mesh, it was pretty tight then, and it worked great. No more clicking for me. It's amazing how much more stress braking puts on the car than under acceleration.

asc6000

iTrader: (15)

yea, I posted that 100 pages or so ago. Just use XB4 rims. The fronts are close but your car will work differently when you switch rims because they are off a couple mm. The rears as you found aren't even close.

coretex

i don't get the answer here. does it work or not? i cant use the xb4 rims on the rb5..

asc6000

iTrader: (15)

On the front you use kyosho hexes and the kyosho wheels fit but their offset is incorrect. You could use them but any setup info posted on the net would not be applicable because the track width is incorrect. Also if you switched from Kyosho rims to xb4 all your setup info developed with kyosho rims would be junk. It's only a couple mm but the best and simple answer on the front is to use xb4 rims. Obviously we both had/have the same issue and that is mostly a concern in the rear where tires wear out 20x faster than the front. In the rear the Kyosho rims are not even close to working so without some custom hexes or arms which would cost you and leg to have made.....
Just use XB4 rims....

Mauve

iTrader: (3)

Hi guys, I'm pretty green when it comes to electric so I am struggling a little with gearing. I have the XB4 built and have thrown a SpeedPassion Reventon Pro in with a 5.5R SpeedPassion Comp V3.0. I had a 7.5t SP v3 in it but the magic smoke escaped when running a 20t pinion and std esc settings. I would prefer to not have this happen again, so at this stage I have put a 17t pinion and removed all timing through the esc, might as well be running blinky. Is this where I should be at? How hot is too hot when it comes to the motor? Esc has thermal cut off but I haven't thermalled it at all? I'm really struggling to figure out what gearing and settings I should be using, any help would be appreciated.

I know this isn't a speed passion thread, I thought you guys know the xb4 and its fdr and maybe someone out there is running the same combination?

asc6000

iTrader: (15)

I run a 19t with a 10.5 on an indoor medium size 75x65 track. Yes it is a lower wind than many use but it gives me the ability to actually use full throttle and drastically reduces problems like thrashed drivetrain and burnt electrics. Doesn't stop me from being competitive, in fact I think it gives me an advantage.

001casey

iTrader: (31)

Have you burnt out the the motor or the speedie? Optimum motor temp is 60-65c. The temp should be about this at the end of your race. Select the pinion to fall in this temp range. If the race is 5 minutes and you have a motor temp of 60-65 and then you add another 2 or 3 minutes of run time you could find the motor up around 90 degrees. The longer you run the hotter it will get. If you plan to run (practice) for longer than a normal race choose a smaller pinion. I am running 18 tooth on high grip carpet 5.5 turn, 62 degrees after 5 minutes but 7 minutes I am at about 90. On the dirt with 6.5 turn I have been running a 20 tooth with 60-65 degree temps. If your mesh is to tight you can also over load the speedie quiet fast. Ring me if you need further info.