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-   -   SC10 Thread Part 2 (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/632899-sc10-thread-part-2-a.html)

Wildcat1971 09-17-2012 04:43 PM

honestly you would get more parting it out. Stuff tends to sell for about 70% of the original value. so price it that way. to start.

gamedog1966 09-18-2012 12:25 AM


Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 11220482)
how do your lap times differ? my lap times are lower with my b4 than my sc10. The buggy requires more finesse. But I feel it is more precise to drive. Normally the buggy class is much more competitive. Even at Nats there were way more buggy entries than SC entries.

As far as practice goes, you need to record your laps and make changes. Tire changes, tuning changes and note the results. Even though the car feels faster, it can actually be slower. Work on taking the corners with more speed. The more speed you carry into the corner, the more you can exit the corner with. Work on downsiding all jumps and pick different lines on the track and try to stay in the line. you may find some lines are faster for you. You also want to learn alternate lines to pass people that are in your line. An effective practice involve trying new things and being able to hit all your marks at the optimal speed. Practice is also where you drive harder and try things your would not in a race. They say practice is going 100% and racing is going 80%. Taking chances in races and doing things you cant execute effectively, will cost you time.

a buddy of mine noticed that some of my turnbuckles werent the same lengths and he corrected them on his setup station and as soon as we hit the track i was able to drop down in the 17sec mark and that is where the fcast guys thrive and some of them hit the high 16.8/ 16.9 mark. i think i may need to not over drive the car which i kno i do cause i can do that with my sc10 and not crash out at all. if i can stay on my line and not over do it i think i may b ok man

Bubonic-X 09-18-2012 10:33 AM

Can somebody go over the purpose of the c clip in the front axle when you convert to hex hubs. How do you install it?

mccaul 09-18-2012 10:57 AM


Originally Posted by Bubonic-X (Post 11224862)
Can somebody go over the purpose of the c clip in the front axle when you convert to hex hubs. How do you install it?

1 I put the inside bearing on the axle,
2 install c-clip
3 install assembly into hub
4 install outer bearing
5 install pin and hex

jauntyfedora 09-18-2012 11:00 AM

Were the pins on the front hex axles super loose for anyone else? Ended up crushing mine with my pliers to make it stay better.

gamedog1966 09-18-2012 04:04 PM

hey guys i have a question on how often should i rebuld my diff?
i run every other tue starting at like 5pm race starts at 7, 2 5 min heats then a 8 min main. race every fri, sat and sun, fri i get to the track at 4 pm do tuning and preping for 7 pm racing of the same as on tue. sat i get there at 11 am and run all day and race at 7 pm of 3 5 min heats and a 8 min main , sun get there and run at 10 am and race at 1pm of 2-3 5 min heats and a 8 min main. i kno that is a lot of mileage but to me it dont seem like a lot of days mayb cause im just a track rat lol, and to me it seems as if im rebuilding and breaking a diff in like every two months is this normal or am i just puttin a lot of wear and tear on it, or im not doing the greatest of rebulid and break in procedures which one is it guys?

Micah123 09-18-2012 04:15 PM


Originally Posted by gamedog1966 (Post 11226151)
hey guys i have a question on how often should i rebuld my diff?
i run every other tue starting at like 5pm race starts at 7, 2 5 min heats then a 8 min main. race every fri, sat and sun, fri i get to the track at 4 pm do tuning and preping for 7 pm racing of the same as on tue. sat i get there at 11 am and run all day and race at 7 pm of 3 5 min heats and a 8 min main , sun get there and run at 10 am and race at 1pm of 2-3 5 min heats and a 8 min main. i kno that is a lot of mileage but to me it dont seem like a lot of days mayb cause im just a track rat lol, and to me it seems as if im rebuilding and breaking a diff in like every two months is this normal or am i just puttin a lot of wear and tear on it, or im not doing the greatest of rebulid and break in procedures which one is it guys?

sounds about right for a ball diff. Gear diff should run and run.........only thing to check is to check diff oil if it leaks.

gamedog1966 09-18-2012 04:30 PM


Originally Posted by Micah123 (Post 11226195)
sounds about right for a ball diff. Gear diff should run and run.........only thing to check is to check diff oil if it leaks.

thanks bro, cause i was wondering i have built ball diffs and learned from mistakes earlier when i first started racing and now i know im pretty good at buliding them and i hear some ppl say they run on theres for like 5 months or better and im just wondering if they run as much as i do or are they doing something different or better than me and i was like there is no way in hell i can run mine that long and it stay buttery smooth man. now im at ease i have bn doing a great jopb at the rebuilds and they are lastin as long as they sould i just run the dog crap out of em

RC_nooberton 09-18-2012 05:32 PM

I picked up the carbon U brace based on some reading here in this section as well as the FT hubs and the carbon C-hub tower. I'm wondering if I need to shave the U-brace prior to installing it. Not sure how to go about it if I were to do it. Is it beneficial to replace the stock u brace with the carbon one even if I don't shave it first? Is it mostly a durability upgrade?

Regarding the carbon C-hub towers - which hole should I put the camber link/ballstud in? Does it depend on the setup I'm looking for? Any recommendations?

Thanks for helping a noob out

Wildcat1971 09-18-2012 06:12 PM


Originally Posted by jauntyfedora (Post 11224957)
Were the pins on the front hex axles super loose for anyone else? Ended up crushing mine with my pliers to make it stay better.

yes, the holes in the front seemed bigger. I put a little black grease on the pin to keep it from falling out while I put the hex on. hopefully it keeps the pin in place when I remove the hexes.


ok, so I wanted to make the truck more forgiving. It was too loose in the rear last weekend. So I went from blue to red springs. move the front shock tops and bottoms in and added 2 shims to the rear stud. I also went from 5 deg hubs to 1.5 deg hubs. I removed the rear sway bar as well. Didi I go too far or sound about right? btw, I bought it used with the sway bar, tried it for giggles, I have a feeling is was crap on a low bite track.

gamedog1966 09-18-2012 09:37 PM

wildcat, what shock oil are y running along with pistons, what is your ride height set at, first hig i would do is set my ride height at something like 29 rear and 31 front and see how it feels, if you are going in the right direction there then try to use 2 pistons all around and mayn 35-40 wt oil ft and 27.5-32.5 oil in rear depending on how mych more traction you want. what onboard toe are you running to begin with and also are you running weight on the chassis and where andhow much? if none place 3 oz under the batt foam and ballast in front of the tranny. if need more mayb 1/4 oz in each rear triangle. i would only use sway bars if im running on high bite tracks man idk how to tune then on anything else bro. try running 3 deg toe onboard if that isnt enough go up just half deg block. with all of this taking it one stepm at a time youo should get the rear end to stick to the track men, well good luck with ur truck bro

naffer 09-18-2012 10:47 PM


Originally Posted by gamedog1966 (Post 11226151)
hey guys i have a question on how often should i rebuld my diff?
i run every other tue starting at like 5pm race starts at 7, 2 5 min heats then a 8 min main. race every fri, sat and sun, fri i get to the track at 4 pm do tuning and preping for 7 pm racing of the same as on tue. sat i get there at 11 am and run all day and race at 7 pm of 3 5 min heats and a 8 min main , sun get there and run at 10 am and race at 1pm of 2-3 5 min heats and a 8 min main. i kno that is a lot of mileage but to me it dont seem like a lot of days mayb cause im just a track rat lol, and to me it seems as if im rebuilding and breaking a diff in like every two months is this normal or am i just puttin a lot of wear and tear on it, or im not doing the greatest of rebulid and break in procedures which one is it guys?

4 days of racing per week is pretty demanding on the truck...lots of wear and tear. 3 to 5 times more than most people...

Wildcat1971 09-19-2012 04:41 AM

My inside toe is 3.5. I tried the .5 hubs. Didnt like it. Oil is 32.5 front and 27.5 rear. Pistons are 3 front and 2 rear. 4 limiters front and 2 limiters rear

Wildcat1971 09-19-2012 04:47 AM

My weight is 2oz under foam. 1/4 each triangle. 1/2 behind the reat tower. 1/4 next to rexiever. Green springs rear are almost all the way down. For ride height. I did bones level front arms just above level

Matt Trimmings 09-19-2012 05:20 AM


Originally Posted by RC_nooberton (Post 11226510)
I picked up the carbon U brace based on some reading here in this section as well as the FT hubs and the carbon C-hub tower. I'm wondering if I need to shave the U-brace prior to installing it. Not sure how to go about it if I were to do it. Is it beneficial to replace the stock u brace with the carbon one even if I don't shave it first? Is it mostly a durability upgrade?

Regarding the carbon C-hub towers - which hole should I put the camber link/ballstud in? Does it depend on the setup I'm looking for? Any recommendations?

Thanks for helping a noob out

If you are planning on installing the c hub then you need to shave the u brace flat, you can use a dremel or a file, go slow and take a little at a time to get it right. You should start with the B hole (middle).


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