Am I the only one that giggles every time someone says "put it in the b hole"? :p
BTW have some ventilation when grinding carbon parts. I shaved mine but still have one washer on the inner stud. I'm going to try it without a washer this week in practice and see if I notice a difference. Anyone else experiment with this on a high bite track?

Just a note
 

I am loving the new Avid steering bellcrank parts on my Sc10 FT truck. Very tight no slip, just have to use a little blue thread lock on the 2 screws to keep them in.

V2 shocks are doing well as long as i use the green slime by AE, if not i find they leak. Running 30 weight in fronts and 35 in rear, tracks i race around here are all dirt and loose.

I find proline slicers on front and AKA enduros on rear get it done.

Im hoping AE plans to put out nuts for the shock tower top screws, the plastic ones just arent durable enough, i did manage to find nuts at home depot that fits them sorry i dont have what size they are, 12 for like 2 bucks.

Does anyone see any big differences when running the fat lipos like turnigy 5.0 2s vs the thinner ones like turnigy 6.0 2s? Does it really make that big of a difference?

you can use these aluminum nuts
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...inum-Locknut-5

The grittyness comes from the grease break down in the thrust bearings. Grease just wears out. Mine is in the same boat and need to break it in before this weekend.

I got adventurous last night and changed some things on my setup. My track is medium traction and I reduced rear toe, moved shocks out, changed spring rates, removed antisquat, removed 2oz of weight and added bump steer. One more thing to try is with front shock location. It was weird at first, but after driving it for 2 batteries I dropped some seconds off my lap times. Mind you, I'm now running 13.5 blinky and my times were faster now than with my boosted 10.5.

@J-Bone
I suspect Glitch is like CV as traction goes. I believe you guys run similar tires. Double D's, grid irons, etc. But why did you make changes to reduce traction? What were your anti squat and rear toe before?

@J-Bone
I suspect Glitch is like CV as traction goes. I believe you guys run similar tires. Double D's, grid irons, etc. But why did you make changes to reduce traction? What were your anti squat and rear toe before?

That rings a bell being the 4\40 nuts thanks

Yes, gridirons are the #1 tire. I ran tazers and gridirons and I prefer tazers.
I was doing ok with the previous setup, but it was more of a high traction and different style of driving. It seemed to be to twitchy but no steering on power (rear toe). I had 2° of antisquat and tried 3.5 to 4.5° (4.5 before change) of rear toe. It worked great when I got on power and it had forward bite, but I lost a lot of speed in corners. Even though it was twitchy, it didn't rotate through corners with so much toe.
I got the idea of this setup from two guys who run a very similar and are extremely fast.
This setup does like to be driven hard. It seems when you let off, it is hard to drive.

ok, I will stick with my rear toe of 6.5 degrees for now lol. I was fish tailing the corners with 4 deg. I want the truck to push in the corners. Once it does that I will back off some of the settings.

Are you running 6.5 degrees of toe? And you have mid corner steering?

I had 4.5 last weekend. Adding 2deg more. and yeah, the rear was swinging if i tried to maintain any speed in the corner.

I am adding with the hubs, so easy to revert. just going to try some things. I might only need the stiffer front end though. I went a little extreme to feel the changes. I am a little concerned that the front will be way out of balance with the rear and make the truck goofy.

Thanks for the excellent info Mat!

I have the c-hub installed already on new FT aluminum hubs I need to pick up a dremel 1st before I can shave the new brace.

I would just get the ST racing alum ubrace. The shaved ones tend to break because they are thinner.

Done!

Thanks Wildcat :)