I have tried all that individually, but probably not as a whole set up, I will do all that at one time next time I'm at the track and see how it is!! Nlow that i think about it maybe thats my problem I'm tuning one end of the truck or the other and not tuning the truck as a whole.

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So I made a post on another forum trying to get help on pricing for my SC10 Factory Team, but no one is really giving any input so I figured I could ask here.

So after my track closed down, I've lost a lot of the fun I had with RC. Seeing as how I find it more fun to practice/race on a track than bashing around my neighborhood. Of course every once in a while it's okay, but after a while it's boring.

Lately I've been obsessing over several laptops, and I want to get into making YouTube videos. What I am using now is an Asus 1005HAB Netbook from 2010, 1.6ghz, Windows XP, and 2Gb of RAM upgraded from a measly 1.

Not necessarily wanting to sell it, but I was seeing how much one would pay for my Factory Team SC10 (converted to a buggy). The thing has ALWAYS been cleaned after every single race, maintenance always done, bearings checked and replaced.

What it would come with:
-SC10 Factory Team Upgrades
-Buggy body, wing, other pieces that came with the conversion
-All pieces to convert back to a Short Course again, excluding the body (I have 2, but they are in too horrible of condition)
-Extra arms, shock towers, nerf bars, and many other extras I can't think of
-RPM A Arms all around, RPM Shock Towers Front and Rear, RPM Arms Front and Rear
-RPM Front Bumper and Chassis Brace
-RPM Ball Cups (white)
-Avid RC Revolution Bearings all around
-JConcepts Silent Speed Spur Gear
-Tekin 13.5 Redline
-Tekin RS Speed Control
-Spektrum DX3S with custom molded (only 3 others with this similar pattern design)
-JConcepts Gold Bar Codes (2 runs) on Associated Hex Wheels (rear)
-AKA Rebar Super Soft on JC Rulux front wheels (they have a ton of runs, but they are still in really good running condition as per running in the front)
-Proline Caliber's on ProTrac Renegade wheels (M2 Rear Hex)
-JC Green Subcultures on Renegade Proline wheels (bearing front)
-Other tires I haven't possibly listed
-Proline Hex Adapter for the rear, anodizing removed with Greased Lightning
-JConcepts Hex Adapter (not installed)
-Avid RC Bellcrank
-B-Fast ball diff kit (carbide diff balls, ceramic thrust) 6 months in and it's still smooth with the excessive cleaning I've done
-Hexcrews screw set, the only screws that are not are the ones connecting the front bumper and servo, as the ones supplied weren't long enough for the RPM one

Oh gosh I can't remember what else I have done or have, and can't check at the moment. Here are some pictures.

http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/...s/102_0029.jpg

http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/...B/IMG_0086.jpg

http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_0069-1.jpg

http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/...B/IMG_0088.jpg

http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/...B/IMG_0087.jpg

Note that some of those pictures were taken before I replaced the small mini bumper back to the less aesthetically pleasing but more practical RPM SCT bumper.

http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/...DSCN6795-1.jpg

^One of the most recent pics I have of it.

Thanks for your input. C:

The trucks looks in great condition, with all the extras u have included as a roller u can easily get 150-175 bro

I wonder how that thing handles without a truck body on it. I see one of these at the track everyone once in a while. It never does well, but I think the owner is just an experimenter and not a racer.

Well wildcat, I have ran mine several times after making like gearing changes to see how she feels and it handled well and I got the results I was looking for. So I'm just assuming his truck shouldn't feel bad with that body it has on it to b honest, it may even fly a lil better

Itz crazy, I've only bn racing a yr now and I didn't know that different bodies handled differently until the other wk of racing. I bn practicing with the stock ft body and went to get ready for the first heat and tried the chevy 1500 hi flow body and man did it make my steering a bit twichy so I went bck to thw stock one and it felt great again just that fast. I'm assuming the chevy 1500 body adds a bit of steering ....well that's how it felt very fast but very edgy as well

I have an under body for mine, I should put it on and do some laps in practice.

yeah, I think it matter less for buggies, but these SC's are sensitive to bodies.

What is a underbody bro?

Looks like this. keep the chassis clean when racing


http://www.fastrax-rc.com/rc-product...0005060&cat=PO

Oh it looks cool, now I do wonder how it would handle with the extra weight, mayb a tad more traction, hell idk lol wildcat do u have a b4.1, and are u fast in it?

Try to drive my buggy hard like I do my sc10 and not having great success with that formula. I'm pretty fast in the sc10 stock class at my track but in the stock buggy no the same results. I would like to get a nice practice schedule that will tell me to run for so many mins and make check of time or run at 3/4 throttle and check time etc, I just need sometthing I can implement in how to make my practice sessions profecient that will carry over to the races, I need to wrk on how to b more consistent that is the biggest thing. I can do it in my sc10 but not buggy. Can u help me?

how do your lap times differ? my lap times are lower with my b4 than my sc10. The buggy requires more finesse. But I feel it is more precise to drive. Normally the buggy class is much more competitive. Even at Nats there were way more buggy entries than SC entries.

As far as practice goes, you need to record your laps and make changes. Tire changes, tuning changes and note the results. Even though the car feels faster, it can actually be slower. Work on taking the corners with more speed. The more speed you carry into the corner, the more you can exit the corner with. Work on downsiding all jumps and pick different lines on the track and try to stay in the line. you may find some lines are faster for you. You also want to learn alternate lines to pass people that are in your line. An effective practice involve trying new things and being able to hit all your marks at the optimal speed. Practice is also where you drive harder and try things your would not in a race. They say practice is going 100% and racing is going 80%. Taking chances in races and doing things you cant execute effectively, will cost you time.

I was looking for a price with all the electronics excluding batteries.

Also for the people wondering whether it handles well, I prefer the handling with the buggy body... But the durability is what I miss. The only reason I got RPM stuff.