https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0B46KBZKFw

Good tips I got from this were to use a really light oil to help clean out the old thick stuff, and to fill the diffs half way before putting the cross gears in.

Customss , I had a big stability problem as well with my car. Mark Unrath hooked me up with a great set up for my track ( Great they actually run there ) . He has shared it here before so I don't think he would mind me re posting it . The pistons , oil , springs , and hexes all made my car a different animal.

thanks i will give it a try

I just picked up a 48.2 the other day. Is there any changes I should make right away for example the shock springs and pistons like i did with the 410? Thanks

There are at least two ways to hit a jump. I like to run up fast and let off near the bottom, this will get you a flatter faster jump... if you pedal it before the jump and then goose it up the face you will go higher and just as far, but is a slower line.

Pistons are really the only thing from the box that id change...

Altho I did pick up the 2 piece mount from pete at fierce rc... wow that was worth every penny!!!

Can you please measure camber link' lenght with such 2/1.5 F/R camber settings and endpoint locations?

I use a gauge . It will be days before I have the car and calipers in the same place . Someone else may be able to do it quicker

Everyone must be busy racing... just bringing this back to the front.

I need some info on replacing the pins in the dog bones. I have the Hudy pin drive tool which has always served me well. Today I tried to replace the dog bone pin on the center-rear shorty dog bone on my EB48.2. I used a Mugen pin (3mm x 12.8) and as you can see in the picture it split the end of the bone. Do these dog bones take pins smaller than 3mm? Or are you supposed to simply replace the whole unit instead of just the pins? The pins in the rear drive shafts should be replaced as well since they've become very flat, but I don't want to attempt it if the pins aren't meant to be replaced. I've probably replaced close to 100 pins in my previous Mugen, XRay and Serpent buggies and truggies and never had an issue until today. This is the first attempt at replacing pins in a Tekno vehicle.

Compare with calipers, I bet the Tekno ones might be a few tenths smaller.

I have no first hand experience but remember guys saying that its hit or miss with these axles. Some Will take a pin some won't.

I just compared the two and both mic'd out at 2.97mm. The rear drive shaft/cva pins need replaced one way or another because they are really flattened. So I gave them a try and had no issues replacing the pins in the rear dog bones. Not sure why that center-rear didn't go as well, but lesson learned there.

I replaced 9-11 of them a couple of weekends back. The only one that had issues was the rear shaft of the EB48, both ends split, but I had some SERIOUS wear on that (probably 30% of the pin was gone). That looks like the same one you had issues with. I'm wondering if it's the part or somehow the stress we exert on that small piece? Right off of the center drive shaft on only 1", between diff's, imagine the torque that thing gets hit with. A recommendation I read was to heat up the material first.

So to summarize, I would say yes it's still a great idea to try that first before just pitching it and buying a new one as your chances for success are decently high. I will give the heat trick a try next time as well.

I have just got 2nd hand EB48.2 and it has CSI shock on it
But I got tolled csi don't do shocks for this car
So what would that be off