So after looking a little more I guess I could not do a combo deal and just get the ESC, motor and programmer separately. The HW4274 motor has a 1800kv option but it's a little longer at 74mm vs the HW4068 (2250kv) which is 68mm. Does anyone know if there is 5mm of space available for the longer motor.

I have the 2250kv and the 1800kv and they both fit fine. Mine measure the same 74mm, I run the sct pro speed control but the 150amp also has just enough room.
Paul Rush
HWNA
Team Driver

How does the 1800 vs the 2250 differ/feel? Which one do you prefer?

Hey Paul, Can you post a pic of your car with the HW speedo and motor in it? I just got mine and am looking to see the best way to solder up the motor being that it has wires on it.

Hey guys, just finished up my build on my EB48. I must say, it was a very smooth build. I had one issue and wanted to check before I messed with it.

The long screws (40mm) that attach the hinge pin brace (Front and Rear) are giving me a fit. They slide in, and thread approximately half the way and tighten up to the point of wanting to round the screw head tight. I pulled apart the diff case and even ran a pin (longer than the screw) through the whole and it is completely lined up. Is there something I'm doing wrong here?

Attached is a photo of the screws I am referencing.

Thanks!

Mine was a little tight on first run through since it's theading the plastic, but is easier on the second go around. Do you have a good driver, like MIP or something? If so you'll be OK. It should take a lot to strip these big bolt heads.

If you're really having problems you could also try getting a similar bolt from Lowes/Home Depot to pre-thread, or buy a tap for about $5 ... but neither of these really should be necessary.

I haven't had any issues.
Kind of sounds like your installing the screws on the wrong end maybe??? As in..... mixing up TKR1327 screws and TKR1333?

Yes those are difficult to install the first time, I used chap-stick on all my screws for the build.

Paul Rush

Crescent wrench
If a wrench is 2 hard to hold then use a deep socket without a ratchet
Plus 5 min to take it apart...10 if you're at the track and need to clear dirt from the bottom screws first...the split center rear support is an awesome part. 2 screws or 8¿ lol


Also, no matter how tight I get the caps they still leak...even with the serpent diaphrams...my guess is they were made faulty.

I had the same issue and ended up rounding one of them when I had to rebuild the diffs. I had to use a drill to get the rounded one out. My solution was to buy a screw set from rcscrewz, those feel a lot harder. I was able to screw it in/out without issues.

I like the 2250kv indoor on a short straight of 100'. I like the 1800 geared high (18x44) outdoors on a big track.

Here is mine but I am using the motor plugs......

I bought a pack of 10 from Tekno, I used 2 of them and never any more. I too stripped the head of them.

Thanks for the replies guys. Glad to know it wasn't just me. I kept checking to make sure it was assembled correctly and couldn't find any problems.

Make sure the upper two screws holding the case together aren't tightened down all the way. They should be less than snug until you get the long screws in the same amount.

Here's a friendly reminder for all of you. Check your out drives on a regular basis. I snapped a rear drive shaft last weekend. The out drive looked fine on the surface, but inside it had a groove deep enough to completely swallow the pin on the drive shaft.

I think I was still using the original set of out drives that came with the car for the F/R diffs.