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Old 06-14-2013 | 07:51 PM
  #7246  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
I agree. That is a sick scheme you got going there. What did you do for the shocks?
Thanks. What do you want to know about the shocks in particular? I just built them as per instructions.
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Old 06-14-2013 | 07:51 PM
  #7247  
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Originally Posted by RavensNightFury
Hey gene how did you like the build and handle on the Aussie tracks
The buggy is great. I am only a novice at racing, but I will be doing it for a long time I think. The EB48 is the buggy for me!
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Old 06-14-2013 | 07:56 PM
  #7248  
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Originally Posted by Genebaby
Thanks. What do you want to know about the shocks in particular? I just built them as per instructions.
I wasn't very specific. I was talking about the white shock covers/shrouds. They look awesome and was wondering where i could pick some up.
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Old 06-14-2013 | 07:58 PM
  #7249  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
I wasn't very specific. I was talking about the white shock covers/shrouds. They look awesome and was wondering where i could pick some up.
No worries, they are from RC Skins: https://rc-skin.com/rc-shock-covers-rubber-coated/
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Old 06-14-2013 | 08:25 PM
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Default Part 1 - Tekno EB48 Build Review

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 06-15-2013 | 09:16 AM
  #7251  
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Originally Posted by Genebaby
I just finished my second build last night and didn't have an issue with these screws either time, and I have rebuilt the diffs on the first one too. Strange.
Those couple of screws are quite tight as it's a long thread to tap unless you're using some sort of power tool.

Again a recommendation is a little bit of oil (honestly does not matter what time, shock, diff, full scale car heh) on the screw. It will thread and tap much easier with just a small amount of reduction of friction.
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Old 06-15-2013 | 02:08 PM
  #7252  
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First race, second place. Before the race I only drove two battery packs on local track, and 10 minute run on the race track. Tekno performed flawlessly.

BUT! The center shaft wobble got worse. I really hate that, sorry to say, but it is very annoying that such bad quality center shaft is spoiling the whole otherwise great car.

Foto taken from Liporacer.at photo by Michi on their FB page. Thanks to all our new Austrian friends! Second photo is from our successful Slovenian Team first visit, each of us got place on the podium.

Best regards to all, new Tekno fan Miha :-) (hating the center shaft bad quality though!)
Attached Thumbnails Tekno RC EB48 Thread-clipboard02.jpg   Tekno RC EB48 Thread-img_3877.jpg  
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Old 06-15-2013 | 02:12 PM
  #7253  
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Originally Posted by RokleM
Those couple of screws are quite tight as it's a long thread to tap unless you're using some sort of power tool.

Again a recommendation is a little bit of oil (honestly does not matter what time, shock, diff, full scale car heh) on the screw. It will thread and tap much easier with just a small amount of reduction of friction.
I did use a power tool, carefully. I bought a new driver specifically for RC when I began working on my Vorza, let alone building a kit from scratch.
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Old 06-15-2013 | 03:37 PM
  #7254  
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Originally Posted by Genebaby
I did use a power tool, carefully. I bought a new driver specifically for RC when I began working on my Vorza, let alone building a kit from scratch.
Precisely my point Do it by hand and I guarantee about 2/3 of the way putting those screws in your hands start to cramp up
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Old 06-15-2013 | 04:02 PM
  #7255  
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Originally Posted by Miholc
First race, second place. Before the race I only drove two battery packs on local track, and 10 minute run on the race track. Tekno performed flawlessly.

BUT! The center shaft wobble got worse. I really hate that, sorry to say, but it is very annoying that such bad quality center shaft is spoiling the whole otherwise great car.

Foto taken from Liporacer.at photo by Michi on their FB page. Thanks to all our new Austrian friends! Second photo is from our successful Slovenian Team first visit, each of us got place on the podium.

Best regards to all, new Tekno fan Miha :-) (hating the center shaft bad quality though!)
Congrats on the great luck on your first race!

As far as center shaft wobble are you using the stock steel or lightweight aluminum one? My aluminum one is wobble free on both my eb48 and sct410. If you were local I'd give you my stock new ones for free to try to help your wobble issue.
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Old 06-15-2013 | 04:27 PM
  #7256  
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As a running change I put the aluminium shaft in my second build. I don't really have an issue with the steel one in the first car but wanted to give it a try. I'll put one in the first car too one day.

Space and tolerances are tight in this chassis (a big difference to most other cars, like the Vorza I was used to) so it's surprising that this wobble issue wold exist. There is not much wiggle room against that shaft in places.
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Old 06-15-2013 | 04:33 PM
  #7257  
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The wobble bugs the hell outa me too, I've bent it straight as an arrow and 2 runs later its back.. I may have to look into the aluminum one
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Old 06-15-2013 | 05:10 PM
  #7258  
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Today I bent an aluminum shaft so bad it will no longer work as is after what appeared to be a minor cartwheel today. I assume the chassis flexed a little too much (running front and center braces) during said cart wheel and bent the front aluminum drive shaft. I'll try to straighten it out and see what happens or if it holds up, makes me wonder if anyone else has experienced this or if anything else is wrong with it?
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Old 06-15-2013 | 05:41 PM
  #7259  
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my aluminum center shaft wobbles more than my stock steel shaft. I think its just so long that even the slightest bit of bend throws it out of whack. This might sound stupid, but I was wondering if the long hollow aluminum shaft for the traxxas 4x4 slash could be modified to work. Just a thought. I havent measured anything to see if its even close in length. Not sure what traxxas is doing but the center shaft in the 4x4 slash runs perfectly true.
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Old 06-15-2013 | 05:56 PM
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I wonder if a carbon fiber tube with pressed in steel ends would work?
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