Remember to spray all of the screws and set screws with some motor spray before you do anything, whether they go into metal or plastic...

Why for plastic ?
And why ?
I know for the locktight but ..after you put them in do you re oil ? Because i don't like rusty bolts ...

Reason is because the screws have a oil coating on them

Since I started doing that on every build for the past 3 years (about 40 builds) I've never had a screw back out. In my 20+++ years of doing this that was some of the best advice I EVER got! You can use motor spray, nitro cleaner, or simple green will work too. Lately I've been taking all the screws out of the bags and putting them in a small simple green bath container while I lay out all the plastic parts for each step. I'm a little O.C.........

I've seen mostly guys are wiring the motor bye Going around and over the center diff but doesn't this get in the way of battery plugs or is it the best way so far ..I've seen one pic that it went forward over the servo and looks better if you ask me and less wire less weight ..
Any body have a pic of there wiring that is different then the norm ...

Are most leaving extra wire to move motor out to change pinions I guess ?

Wires routed around the diff has zero issues with the batteries. I guess if you make the loop ridiculously long then yeah. As for the weight of a bit of extra wire, should not be a problem!

Got a new body for my 811e. I open and it's...."What, no window masks?" You've got to be kidding me, Serpent. I've bought more than a dozen bodies from various companies (Pro-Line, JConcepts, Protform, Losi, Traxxas,etc.) and they have ALWAYS had window masks. How cheap can Serpent be?

I would like to see someone make a different body period. I don't care to much for the stock one

Word!

Mine had window masks, I'm sure they will send ya some.

Mine had the window masks as well, so they must have forgot with yours.

Personally I love the 811 E body, coolest out there. I get a lots of compliments at the track how cool looking this buggy is. What I don't like is the Serpent Truggy body, I think its the ugliest on the market.

I did spray the screws with nitro cleaner but some of mine still backed out. No problem last night though after using red loctite on the problem screws.

Look good it should included if not all them or the store you bought if from and they will fix the issue or use painters tape

The bodies that came with my kits came with window masks. The bodies I ordered separately did not.

Well after a long thought out debate between the 811E and the Dex408 the serpent is the winner.. So before I pull the trigger I would like to know all the upgrades that make this rig the best.. also a good setup for a tight indoor clay high bite track.. And a good setup for a big outdoor loose track I run at bolth outdoor in the summer indoor all winter...

Ordered mine this week, and went to pick it up tonight at UPS at 9:30pm in the POURING rain.. lol

unboxed it and kit parts look good I can see why this is a durable ... slithery car!! cant wait to start the build tomorrow when its cold and rainy out...

I also bought a separate stock body that had no window masks.. but I could care less, certainly no reason to cry cheap... look at the kit ... Im gonna mask in my own in the shape of a ...

Ill take a few shots as I go along, thanks for the tip to wash all the screws!! and yeah, need more build pics in this newbie thread!

only mods I picked up were the M2C front shock tower guard/cover. Help protect the carbon tower better, even with sanding and ca all the edges.

Have a tekin rx8 w a 2050 motor setup going in... Im a little anxious about this area a bit..

my track is a large, outdoor and "fast" ... my nitro struggles a little with low end power in certain parts, but Im expecting that wont be a problem with this car.

1/8 elec are setting track records... with the Associated car now less, and I havent seen one of these out there... soo well have to see wuts wut after the raining stops...