SC10 4x4 Thread
I'm not sure its not mine its a friends. You can PM him he goes by "mattnin" here on RCTech.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 239
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 114
From: N/A
Alright. Balldiff time.
Here's my problem:
I am using a new lightweight Rear Topshaft: When installing the little spacer that holds the Metal disks in place, I place it down to sit ontop of my Rear slipper hub and whammo: It won't sit flush because of the lip on the Topshaft. This is one of those "spacer in the back of the slipper hub problems we argued about on page 100 etc.
What do I do?
- Leave the spacer in the back of the hub to allow the adapter for the balldiff to sit flush?
- Round out a little bit of that blue disk spacer so it 'will' sit flush?
- Kill it with Fire?
And if I do the spacer (as my truck has been since I got it, no need for the Basket) How am I supposed to adjust the balldiff then with it being that way? No different? When I tightened so the spring was fully compressed, it sure did'nt feel very "tight" to me.. I could easily spin the diff. Any Trick or whatever? I followed Mantis' instructions to the T, but it's just not tight, and of course, this spacer thing.
Any help would be appreciated. I would really prefer not to blow up 45 bucks.
Here's my problem:
I am using a new lightweight Rear Topshaft: When installing the little spacer that holds the Metal disks in place, I place it down to sit ontop of my Rear slipper hub and whammo: It won't sit flush because of the lip on the Topshaft. This is one of those "spacer in the back of the slipper hub problems we argued about on page 100 etc.
What do I do?
- Leave the spacer in the back of the hub to allow the adapter for the balldiff to sit flush?
- Round out a little bit of that blue disk spacer so it 'will' sit flush?
- Kill it with Fire?
And if I do the spacer (as my truck has been since I got it, no need for the Basket) How am I supposed to adjust the balldiff then with it being that way? No different? When I tightened so the spring was fully compressed, it sure did'nt feel very "tight" to me.. I could easily spin the diff. Any Trick or whatever? I followed Mantis' instructions to the T, but it's just not tight, and of course, this spacer thing.
Any help would be appreciated. I would really prefer not to blow up 45 bucks.
I would post this in the rcshox thread. I had a problem with my install as well since my spring isn't cut flat on the ends.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 319
From: Newton, NC
I made my own program in excel. PM me you email if you want it.
so whats the answer to off power steering on entry ??? its like it pushs i got ride ht at 25 and 23 ... 30 up frt and 5 in the rear diff .. 40wt in the shocks oz up front half on each side and a 1/4 in the gear cover area got a revo toelink for a brace thx wild cherry copyed what i saw on his truck last weekend ... ...entry thats where iam losing time exit isnt bad ... i have to apply the brakes to get it to turn it seems ...
Tech Adept
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 239
If your a hardcore racer and want the most of your truck, then yes, replace it with a higher quality one. Anything over 150oz of tq should work fine. The speed is up to you. I have the Savox sc-1256 in mine and I wish it was a little faster...
If you want to make your own chassis brace, try heisting your spouse's knitting needle. It`s even the right color...
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...108_172744.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...108_172744.jpg
Tech Regular
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 319
From: Newton, NC
so whats the answer to off power steering on entry ??? its like it pushs i got ride ht at 25 and 23 ... 30 up frt and 5 in the rear diff .. 40wt in the shocks oz up front half on each side and a 1/4 in the gear cover area got a revo toelink for a brace thx wild cherry copyed what i saw on his truck last weekend ... ...entry thats where iam losing time exit isnt bad ... i have to apply the brakes to get it to turn it seems ...
Try to shim the front ball studs, this lowers your cg. I have 5mm under mine, and others have some as well Mantis is one that comes to mind. I have also found that on my track no front sway bar allows the front to bite more.
I also found that the truck doesnt like weight in the nose, I scaled my truck and put .9 oz on either side of the servo(1.8oz total). My truck was doing the same as you discribed, I took the weight out and it had more front bite, It seems that the extra wight up front doesnt allow the truck to change derection quickly, too much momentum i guess. The guess who run saddles say inline is better than all the way forward, I'm assuming that is for the same reasons.
A higher speed servo does help, but like everything else with this truck, speed and power does not makeup for a poor setup.
There are things you can do in your setup to help corner entry:
Less caster
longer front link
standup front shocks
shimm front ball studs
move back on the ackerman/need Mantis' ack bar
a smaller rear sway bar
lean rear shocks over
softer front springs/stiffer rears
and the list goes on....
so whats the answer to off power steering on entry ??? its like it pushs i got ride ht at 25 and 23 ... 30 up frt and 5 in the rear diff .. 40wt in the shocks oz up front half on each side and a 1/4 in the gear cover area got a revo toelink for a brace thx wild cherry copyed what i saw on his truck last weekend ... ...entry thats where iam losing time exit isnt bad ... i have to apply the brakes to get it to turn it seems ...
Have you looked at setup.sheets on AE?
thanks for the awsome help guys. iam all most done with my kit. time to pick out a esc and motor. right noew i have a mmp esc with a 5700 kv set up will that work ok? and one last ? is the belt is tight at the book set up. will i be fine to run it in some.



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