I was reading about that ball diff, I may have to get that!

So I've read that the F/R diffs can be quite a chore to remove, anyone have any input on that? I kind of looked through the manual and it didn't seem that bad, but I'm sure those of you that are avid racers and are rebuilding your diffs often can chime in on what short cuts or tips you might have.

Thanks! :)

its not bad, just make sure you have a cordless driver and the AE driver bits:D

If you have an electric driver, and some driver bits, it a piece of cake, 5 min max! I actually use my panasonic brushless impact driver to take screws out(1 sec per screw) and then use my dremel crdless driver to put them back in:)

This is probably one of the easiest trucks to work on imho as long as you have a power driver. The nice thing is nearly every screw is a 2.5mm cap head. You rarely ever have to change tips for anything. It just looks intimidating until you learn how it fits together.

I have a real nice Dewalt I use for everything and the Hudy tips, so no problems there.

I also take things like "oh god this is hard to do!" with a grain of salt hehe. ;)

How do you all find your diff fluids holding up? I do race the 8.2 nitro (my primary class) and 8.2e buggy's (love them both!) and typically I'll replace all the diff fluids in the nitro after quals and in the ebug around about 1hr of run time (it seems to be a lot easier on the diffs except the middle, which is easy enough to change). I find the AE fluids hold up really well! Just curious what your experiences are so far with the sc10. :)

Thanks again guys, sorry for the barrage of questions, trying to get as much info as I can as quickly as possible. :)

FTR, I was planning on running an RX8/SC4X 4.5 w/ 12t combo, if you have any input n that as well.

Thanks again!

That I do! And I also love that most of the screws are 2.5mm cap heads on my 8.2's. :)

For me the diffs slowly leak no matter what I do. I refresh the oil every 3-4 racedays.

fwiw, I would pick the Pro4 4000kv over the 4.5 sc4x. Runs cooler with more power and a lighter package. Also, the throttle response is just more linear than the sc4x to me.

i use Kyosho grease instead of fluid, works better and last about twice as long with barely any leakage. +1 on the pro4 4000kv, go with 14 or 15 and 60t spur. here is mine with that combo with 50c saddles:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjlWB...w&feature=plcp

make a decision about what your going to do with the pinning or not before you build your difs. i personally thinking pinning is the best option (unless you go center dif:sneaky:). unpinned 30k front, pinned 10k front. its good to see SOMEBODY from AE actually on this thread!!

I just recently replaced the shims in my diffs with 15mmx5mmx0.3mm Xray shims. They seem to limit the outdrive play as well as two stock shims, have zero parasitic drag, and being a thicker washer, I think they will stand up better... time will tell, but so far, I am happy with the fit.

+1 on both points

AE FT alum wheels hexes, so you don't lose the pin constantly :)

also JC hazard wheels if you can use them, sponsors etc


spares: arms, front knuckles, front cvd bones

as im building my kit i just installed the belt and it says make sure rotates freely but the belt dont move so either im overthinking or i messed up somewhere can some please help a guy out.

You are overthinking it lol. You can adjust tension once you have wheels on the car and roll it. But does it move a little or not at all?

Can somebody tell me why the front bones on my truck are bending? If i get the factory team shiny bones will it prevent it? thank guys and hope i get a responce

I agree. The HD pads help a lot and you may want to try running without the slipper cover if the slipper is getting over heated.

Problem is that once the pads start to heat up the slip too much and makes your truck feel like the battery is dumping.

Also, with a lot of the guys getting the center dif, you I bet you can buy used basket, garodiscs, and vented slipper off one of us for cheap.