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Originally Posted by dan-o
(Post 10516978)
Is the SC10 2wd body a direct drop fit for this car??? It would be nice to use my SC10 body on the 4wd , IF I make the switch from the Losi SCTE.
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Originally Posted by kjohnsiii
(Post 10513531)
Still building the FT, looking for some shock spring/oil and sway bar suggestions. Also will be running with exotek chassis.
Will be running at TRCR, med bite clay, now huge jumps with some bumpy lanes. Thanks thanks! |
Hey guys I just bought a new rtr. I'm looking for a good all around shock oil and spring setup.
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Originally Posted by MattP
(Post 10517224)
Hey guys I just bought a new rtr. I'm looking for a good all around shock oil and spring setup.
25/25 oil yellow front spring B4.3 springs in the rear (blue fronts) |
I have been slowly building my new FT kit and thought I would point out a few things. These may have already been covered but I am not reading through 20000 posts. Screws are very tight going in when assembling(to the point I was worried about snapping heads off)and I recommend using a soap or other lubricant for threads. Steering post that retains bellcrank and servo saver needs to be checked frequently when tightening screw through chassis brace pivot for torquing of plastic that in turn binds up steering. Also found very small brass chips in diff housings that need to be thoroughly cleaned and blown out with compressed air. I went ahead and washed all metal diff parts in denatured alcohol to verify clean and assembled diffs dry to check for proper shimming of side and planet gears. I found plastic fingers on diff housing cap to be too long causing planet gears to be forced into side gear in diff cup when case tightened and causing notchy feeling and binding in diff. These fingers need some material removed for proper operation and no binding in diffs. Question, what side of the case have people seen failing under normal use, the deep cup side? This is as far as I have gotten but I will be updating as I continue build.
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Originally Posted by thefatkid
(Post 10514279)
Just FYI, if you purchased the option rack from Associated (91181) and your running a kit truck you will need spacers or shorter ball studs. The kit uses an 8mm stud so without washers/spacers you will need a 6mm ball stud.
Originally Posted by Vegatron75
(Post 10516737)
Looks good man. Does the FT steering rack go lock to lock w/o hitting the servo saver arm?
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
(Post 10515567)
try this
I went 30 wt oil up front with yellow springs and 25 wt with blue fronts in the rear and worked great. I ran on outdoor with some medium size jumps.
Originally Posted by JLinney
(Post 10517301)
I have been slowly building my new FT kit and thought I would point out a few things. These may have already been covered but I am not reading through 20000 posts. Screws are very tight going in when assembling(to the point I was worried about snapping heads off)and I recommend using a soap or other lubricant for threads. Steering post that retains bellcrank and servo saver needs to be checked frequently when tightening screw through chassis brace pivot for torquing of plastic that in turn binds up steering. Also found very small brass chips in diff housings that need to be thoroughly cleaned and blown out with compressed air. I went ahead and washed all metal diff parts in denatured alcohol to verify clean and assembled diffs dry to check for proper shimming of side and planet gears. I found plastic fingers on diff housing cap to be too long causing planet gears to be forced into side gear in diff cup when case tightened and causing notchy feeling and binding in diff. These fingers need some material removed for proper operation and no binding in diffs. Question, what side of the case have people seen failing under normal use, the deep cup side? This is as far as I have gotten but I will be updating as I continue build.
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Could someone post just a setup that is very easy to drive. Doesn't have to be the fastest, just stable and easy to drive.
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
(Post 10517549)
Could someone post just a setup that is very easy to drive. Doesn't have to be the fastest, just stable and easy to drive.
One thing that really made a difference for me was going with the B4.3s on the rear, Yellows up front, and raising the ballstuds with 5mm - 7mm spacers. I actually think 5mm up front under the ballstud may even be a bit more agressive. really liking the diffs at 7K - 5K too. I would say for you, 10K - 5K may be more easy to drive. |
Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 10517562)
what conditions?
One thing that really made a difference for me was going with the B4.3s on the rear, Yellows up front, and raising the ballstuds with 5mm - 7mm spacers. I actually think 5mm up front under the ballstud may even be a bit more agressive. really liking the diffs at 7K - 5K too. I would say for you, 10K - 5K may be more easy to drive. Well this weekend is the last indoor race so I guess a 160 x 60 outdoor track. Haven't been to it yet. Right now I run 3k/3k on a tight indoor track. |
what kind of surface conditions do you see on the track?
I am running carpet over jumps right now, so it probably going to be a bit different than what you may need. track size for me is about 50 x 50. I basically use the Spektrum race setup as a starting point. track small enough that I dropped down to an 11 tooth pinion with the 5.5 550 Tekin motor I am running and that really made a difference in temps. Felt like the sweet spot for the truck. There was another SC104x4 there too, another driver had the RTR version. Definitely doesn't have the punch like mine does. his stock setup didn't feel too bad though, but does have A LOT of roll in the turns with some traction rolling issues. Could push my setup much harder like the losi drivers could. |
I actually have never been to that track yet so I don't know what the conditions are.
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Does anyone know of a source for diff. outdrive oring seals instead of buying entire gear kit. Will the diff case gasket and oring kit for the 2wd work?
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Gear diff seals # 9831
will fit 4w diff 2w uses 48p gears 4w uses 32p gears 4w uses #91005 gear case 2w uses #9828 gear case |
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 10517761)
Gear diff seals # 9831
2w uses 48p gears 4w uses 32p gears |
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