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-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

SCTDan 03-26-2012 04:42 AM


Originally Posted by dan-o (Post 10516978)
Is the SC10 2wd body a direct drop fit for this car??? It would be nice to use my SC10 body on the 4wd , IF I make the switch from the Losi SCTE.

Drops right on

Eaglesrx 03-26-2012 05:41 AM


Originally Posted by kjohnsiii (Post 10513531)
Still building the FT, looking for some shock spring/oil and sway bar suggestions. Also will be running with exotek chassis.

Will be running at TRCR, med bite clay, now huge jumps with some bumpy lanes.

Thanks

Hey, do you mind posting some pics of the exotek chassis once finished? Also, any issues during the build with the exotek in.

thanks!

MattP 03-26-2012 06:01 AM

Hey guys I just bought a new rtr. I'm looking for a good all around shock oil and spring setup.

MantisWorx 03-26-2012 06:03 AM


Originally Posted by MattP (Post 10517224)
Hey guys I just bought a new rtr. I'm looking for a good all around shock oil and spring setup.

RCShox 2 stage
25/25 oil
yellow front spring
B4.3 springs in the rear (blue fronts)

JLinney 03-26-2012 06:24 AM

I have been slowly building my new FT kit and thought I would point out a few things. These may have already been covered but I am not reading through 20000 posts. Screws are very tight going in when assembling(to the point I was worried about snapping heads off)and I recommend using a soap or other lubricant for threads. Steering post that retains bellcrank and servo saver needs to be checked frequently when tightening screw through chassis brace pivot for torquing of plastic that in turn binds up steering. Also found very small brass chips in diff housings that need to be thoroughly cleaned and blown out with compressed air. I went ahead and washed all metal diff parts in denatured alcohol to verify clean and assembled diffs dry to check for proper shimming of side and planet gears. I found plastic fingers on diff housing cap to be too long causing planet gears to be forced into side gear in diff cup when case tightened and causing notchy feeling and binding in diff. These fingers need some material removed for proper operation and no binding in diffs. Question, what side of the case have people seen failing under normal use, the deep cup side? This is as far as I have gotten but I will be updating as I continue build.

thefatkid 03-26-2012 07:08 AM


Originally Posted by thefatkid (Post 10514279)
Just FYI, if you purchased the option rack from Associated (91181) and your running a kit truck you will need spacers or shorter ball studs. The kit uses an 8mm stud so without washers/spacers you will need a 6mm ball stud.


Originally Posted by Vegatron75 (Post 10516737)
Looks good man. Does the FT steering rack go lock to lock w/o hitting the servo saver arm?

With the ball stud torqued all the way to the rack, yes. Looking at the rack the thickenss where the ball stud mounts to the ft part is thinner then the kit part. It will be wednesday before I can get some shims. I'm not sure if this was an intended change for bump steer adjustment or needed for clearance.

Cain 03-26-2012 07:15 AM


Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 (Post 10515567)
try this
I went 30 wt oil up front with yellow springs and 25 wt with blue fronts in the rear and worked great. I ran on outdoor with some medium size jumps.

What pistons are you using as I am using stock pistons. The surface is carpet over jumps, with some pretty decent sized ones so really no give on the landing. I believe that would be about 5W lighter than I am using now and give me even more chassis slap.


Originally Posted by JLinney (Post 10517301)
I have been slowly building my new FT kit and thought I would point out a few things. These may have already been covered but I am not reading through 20000 posts. Screws are very tight going in when assembling(to the point I was worried about snapping heads off)and I recommend using a soap or other lubricant for threads. Steering post that retains bellcrank and servo saver needs to be checked frequently when tightening screw through chassis brace pivot for torquing of plastic that in turn binds up steering. Also found very small brass chips in diff housings that need to be thoroughly cleaned and blown out with compressed air. I went ahead and washed all metal diff parts in denatured alcohol to verify clean and assembled diffs dry to check for proper shimming of side and planet gears. I found plastic fingers on diff housing cap to be too long causing planet gears to be forced into side gear in diff cup when case tightened and causing notchy feeling and binding in diff. These fingers need some material removed for proper operation and no binding in diffs. Question, what side of the case have people seen failing under normal use, the deep cup side? This is as far as I have gotten but I will be updating as I continue build.

Did they do anything different with the diffs like adding in an extra shim etc?

Evil Genius jr. 03-26-2012 07:37 AM

Could someone post just a setup that is very easy to drive. Doesn't have to be the fastest, just stable and easy to drive.

Cain 03-26-2012 07:40 AM


Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr. (Post 10517549)
Could someone post just a setup that is very easy to drive. Doesn't have to be the fastest, just stable and easy to drive.

what conditions?

One thing that really made a difference for me was going with the B4.3s on the rear, Yellows up front, and raising the ballstuds with 5mm - 7mm spacers.

I actually think 5mm up front under the ballstud may even be a bit more agressive.

really liking the diffs at 7K - 5K too. I would say for you, 10K - 5K may be more easy to drive.

Evil Genius jr. 03-26-2012 07:41 AM


Originally Posted by Cain (Post 10517562)
what conditions?

One thing that really made a difference for me was going with the B4.3s on the rear, Yellows up front, and raising the ballstuds with 5mm - 7mm spacers.

I actually think 5mm up front under the ballstud may even be a bit more agressive.

really liking the diffs at 7K - 5K too. I would say for you, 10K - 5K may be more easy to drive.

Thanks!
Well this weekend is the last indoor race so I guess a 160 x 60 outdoor track. Haven't been to it yet.
Right now I run 3k/3k on a tight indoor track.

Cain 03-26-2012 07:47 AM

what kind of surface conditions do you see on the track?

I am running carpet over jumps right now, so it probably going to be a bit different than what you may need. track size for me is about 50 x 50.

I basically use the Spektrum race setup as a starting point. track small enough that I dropped down to an 11 tooth pinion with the 5.5 550 Tekin motor I am running and that really made a difference in temps. Felt like the sweet spot for the truck.

There was another SC104x4 there too, another driver had the RTR version. Definitely doesn't have the punch like mine does. his stock setup didn't feel too bad though, but does have A LOT of roll in the turns with some traction rolling issues. Could push my setup much harder like the losi drivers could.

Evil Genius jr. 03-26-2012 07:51 AM

I actually have never been to that track yet so I don't know what the conditions are.

JLinney 03-26-2012 08:06 AM

Does anyone know of a source for diff. outdrive oring seals instead of buying entire gear kit. Will the diff case gasket and oring kit for the 2wd work?

Wild Cherry 03-26-2012 08:27 AM

Gear diff seals # 9831

will fit 4w diff

2w uses 48p gears
4w uses 32p gears
4w uses #91005 gear case
2w uses #9828 gear case

Cain 03-26-2012 08:37 AM


Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 10517761)
Gear diff seals # 9831

2w uses 48p gears
4w uses 32p gears

In your opinion WC, what should be done to eliminate the clicking of the diff gears? Saw that yesterday on a guy with a pretty new SC10 4x4.


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