If you buy a saddle pack battery that has 4mm bulllet connectors, it should come with battery leads with a balance plug so you can balance charge it as 2s, or if you just want to wast timem you could charge each pack individualy.

You will plug it into your charger like you have it plugged into your truck and charge it as the 2S and mAh you're running as.

you can charge them both at the same time or each. I prefer to do both to have them balanced.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...3/5ec0975a.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...3/637942fa.jpg

Already linked it. NAY NAY NA-NAY NAY... :D


I kid.

Edit: you edited! you jerk! joke... thunder... lost...

haha... I grabbed the wrong link....

OK I took that is 52%ft and 55%r . Not 52% to 55% rear. :blush:

When I scaled my truck it was 1380 in the front and rear with overall truck weight at 2760grams 50-50.

I did so out of necessity from a Novak 4.5 and I like the pro4 better, but wouldn't have been worth the extra money if my 4.5 didn't crap out on me.

I'm running the proine flotek, you still have to cut it up to get free flowing (more than the stock cutouts) but the top is also a little lower than the stock body, and it seems to land on it's wheels or side more often.

I run the flowtek body with all the cut outs. This truck is more nose heavy than a 2w SC so I think it makes more of a difference on 2w than 4w. I have run on a larger outdoor tracks with some pretty big air and the nose always dropped on its own without brakes, even in the wind, so I guess it does help on the right track.

Anyone bust up an idler gear that wasn't pinned yet? Truck has never been pinned but am using a MTK basket with the garodisc's locked down fairly tight...

Took 6 teeth off in the 3rd qualifier, I'm wondering if I've got a problem somewhere else or just put a new one and call it good.

Me and a buddy of mine jsut grabbed a pair of sc10 4x4's at a great sale price and have a few questions

Build went quite well with the exception that one manual specified which parts bags to use and one didn't ????? One came with blue fronts and yellow rears for the shock springs the other came blue/blue ???? I am guessing to diffrent age kits

We left everything as stock diff oils shock oils etc.......... didnt want to get into ripping them apart we are in it to have fun not give me a headache lol

The track we will be running on is a very tight very small indoor carpet track that will be changing layout regularly might be slow and bumpy might be fast and flat hard to say the only thing that will never change is its tiny but fun

Are there any mods / changes i should consider right out of the gate like chassis stiffening, I tried to get through as much of the thread as possible but the good info is jsut everywhere and impossible to pin down to a single page it seems

Lastly its going to be a bit before i can grab a brushless setup apparently the kids wants christmas presents blah blah blah............ would i be okay to run this on a brushed 15t double or perhaps a titan 12t jsut in the interm till i get a brushless setup ?

Thanks for the quick info. I have the stock and Flowtek and prefer the Flowtek myself. Any thoughts on the JC hi flow?

I'm honestly surprised I don't hear more about idlers without the pin from these guys who literally tighten down to the point of eliminating the Slipper Clutch with a plastic transmission. I have never once drove locked down due to common sense of saving my gears with the "slip"per. But i'm pinned and I break idlers anyway. :p

I believe the newer kits come with yellow/yellow, I know for sure the old kits came with blue/blue.

Most people here are running blue all around or yellow in front and blue rear along with the sway bars, yellow front, blue rear.

I would check the front diff and rear diff to make sure there is fluid in there, a lot of people put 30,000 wt oil in the front and 5,000 wt oil in the rear.

you'll notice with the stock oil the truck will have a lot of grab/almost too much with the stock oil, the heavier weight calms it down a bit.

I would spring for a brushless setup they are pretty cheap, you can get a castle system to get you started. I'm not sure if that brushed system will work or last long I'm sure someone else can comment on that.

Thanks jeff aprreciate it i will likely end up pulling the diffs at some point but right now i jsut cant bring myself to go back into it seems like a whole lot of work to get at them lol

I dont mind frying a motor or 2 i am still sitting on lots of brushed stuff from back in the day but i would like to at least roll her around for a few practice laps till i get a brushless in her