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Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
(Post 9902691)
GOD. Stupid... Should have bought a AE to bash, and a Losi to Race, and a RC8 Conversion to 8th Scale.
Btw, Everything sucks if you can't win out of the box. :ha: Edit: My Sarcasm knows no bounds! :sneaky: |
Originally Posted by bohdi
(Post 9902371)
Coming from a guy who cannot find why diffs stick. Go back to New Brite:lol::lol:
I said the flames would begin and that is ok....time is on my side and I said I was going to build my own SC using the rc8 platform but with the worlds towers to LCG. a couple of questions for you, since i am just too stupid to by some other truck that can win out of the box with no mods. OOOOOOH wait, there is no other truck that can win with zero mods and even if there was who cares?? i mod my truck because i like to mod RC vehicles! not everyone drives the same or likes their truck to drive like everyone elses, its called personalization. So answer this: what company has the most RC championships? What RC car/truck can win out of the box? what was your point in trolling this thread? its ok to "build your own SC" but we cant mod ours? Cmon man, there is a Slash thread that may appreciate your BS but we dont, if you have nothing to contribute to this thread then please just move on. |
Cant we all just get along! :nod:
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I'm confused because he was making at least somewhat constructive comments in pages past. I think he lost a race and threw the truck down a cliff. :tire:
Sorry Bohdi. Don't even believe to think you ruffled feathers either. Your post is just 'that' ridiculous that it cannot be ignored. -Moto, I'll try and find the post. But you should be looking too. :p |
Originally Posted by mcdanielbro's
(Post 9902689)
Quick questin for u guys...
My truck, on high speed straits comin into a 90 degree turn per say, the rear of the truck is loose, off the throtal, it will sometimes spin out it comes around so quick, and u can't get back in the throtal fast enuff to pull it out. What can I do to tightin up the back end? My setup now: 27.5 rear 32.5 front shock oils,stock springs 5k rear 20k front diff oils 3-3 rear toe block 1 degree camber all the way around Front is overdrivin Slipper and clicker is locked down Enduro's all around Any tips? when you overdrive the front you pretty much have to always have some sort of throttle input through the turns or the back will come around, try not letting off the throttle completely past the apex. the 3-3 block will increase rear traction, increase on power steering and also rotate the back more. my suggestions would be to go back to the 3-2 block front yellow sway bar/springs rear blue sway bar/springs 1* toe in in the front -1.5* rear camber raise the front ride height a few mm's front shocks mounted outside on the arms/middle tower if you cannot corner with light trigger than eliminate the front overdrive. |
Originally Posted by MantisWorx
(Post 9902753)
couple of things:
when you overdrive the front you pretty much have to always have some sort of throttle input through the turns or the back will come around, try not letting off the throttle completely past the apex. the 3-3 block will increase rear traction, increase on power steering and also rotate the back more. my suggestions would be to go back to the 3-2 block front yellow sway bar/springs rear blue sway bar/springs 1* toe in in the front -1.5* rear camber raise the front ride height a few mm's front shocks mounted outside on the arms/middle tower if you cannot corner with light trigger than eliminate the front overdrive. |
I personally just watched a 14 year old dominate the 4wd mod class with his sc10 4x4 at s and n raceway tonight!!!! This truck is really coming together!!!!
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Originally Posted by rickybobbyxxx
(Post 9902766)
I personally just watched a 14 year old dominate the 4wd mod class with his sc10 4x4 at s and n raceway tonight!!!! This truck is really coming together!!!!
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Originally Posted by mcdanielbro's
(Post 9902689)
Quick questin for u guys...
My truck, on high speed straits comin into a 90 degree turn per say, the rear of the truck is loose, off the throtal, it will sometimes spin out it comes around so quick, and u can't get back in the throtal fast enuff to pull it out. What can I do to tightin up the back end? My setup now: 27.5 rear 32.5 front shock oils,stock springs 5k rear 20k front diff oils 3-3 rear toe block 1 degree camber all the way around Front is overdrivin Slipper and clicker is locked down Enduro's all around Any tips? next if you go thicker in the rear it make it less responsive off power witch is good on most out door track/slippery. i think you would like 7-10k on rear diff might make you truck want to flip more so try more camber if it dose.(if on tight high grip track lower the front to 10k) |
That kid did some bashing alright!!!!!! Shoulda seen this move he put on a durango in the big sweeper!!!!
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Originally Posted by mcdanielbro's
(Post 9902689)
Any tips? When my truck was at its most evil doing what you are describing, turned out the stock A arms had bent to the point where they bound up on the hinge pins. |
Originally Posted by bohdi
(Post 9902242)
While you all sit there and make mods, play with set-up, yadda, yadda, yadda, none of you have come to grips that the car is a basher only. I am an AE fanboy and know it is a POS when it comes to racing:smile:
I will not sell it as my 8yo loves it for playing in the yard but YOU will not be able to truly compete on a track with any mods. We are not the Ryan's and never will be. The Losi sucks too as you have to spend more money to upgrade the soft metal but it is so heavy and planted, we cannot compete unless you have a long main where you know the batts will dump on th Losi. I suspect AE knows this as well. I am sure I will get flamed but it is the truth. BTW, I post this knowing I have not had one issue that everyone else has had either. No slipping belt, no bent cvds, no warped a-arms. I do have the clutch basket though. I will not buy a Losi though and would rather dump the class but will probably build an sc10 out of excess rc8 parts.
Originally Posted by bohdi
(Post 9902242)
yadda, yadda, yadda basher fanboy POS
8yo yard will not compete never will be. sucks too soft metal heavy we cannot compete dump flamed BTW, I have issue I will not dump out of excess . |
Originally Posted by MantisWorx
(Post 9902753)
couple of things:
when you overdrive the front you pretty much have to always have some sort of throttle input through the turns or the back will come around, try not letting off the throttle completely past the apex. the 3-3 block will increase rear traction, increase on power steering and also rotate the back more. my suggestions would be to go back to the 3-2 block front yellow sway bar/springs rear blue sway bar/springs 1* toe in in the front -1.5* rear camber raise the front ride height a few mm's front shocks mounted outside on the arms/middle tower if you cannot corner with light trigger than eliminate the front overdrive. 5k rear diff 60k front I took the pin out and went with the 19t pulley up front. It FLYS You gotta stay on the gas a little in the corner or it will traction roll. I also have the arm shock mounts on the outer hole. tower are in the middle. 2mm sway bar front and rear. I went from -1 to -2 rear camber and 0 toe in the front I ran my best time Friday night Old time 12.14 Pinned 20t front pulley -1 rear camber +1 front toe. slipper 1 thread in from flush New time 11.74(5) pinned removed 19t front pulley -2 rear camber 0 front toe Slipper 1 thread in from flush I am starting to really like this truck. I was going to get a Novak 550 can 4.5T motor setup to replace my castle 3800kv after running with a Novak 5.5T 550 can. I see no real point |
Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
(Post 9902267)
Truly. And I mean this... I have never read more Invalid opinion in my life. Congratulations.
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Originally Posted by lodhammerdin
(Post 9900262)
For the record...
I have the ft alum fieriest and screws (not using many) and the ft shock kits but I didn't spend a penny on them. A certain AE team driver gave them to me along with a bnib reedy sonic 6.5 brushless. Now, as far as why people add weight after they put the lightweight stuff on is kinda simple, get the weight as low as possible. Its extreamly important to get the weight lower in rock crawling, why not in sc racing and other offload racing. also, if anyone is still figuring out the whole chassis brace thing, i bought a tail boom support (pack of 2) for an align trex 600 heli, cut off one end and drilled out the plastic end piece, cut the rod to size and epoxied it back on to the length i needed. it wasn't much work at all, and the pack of two support rods was 7 bucks. so i can make another one to have a spare. it basically turned out the same as the guys starting with carbon rods and using the rc8 shock ends, but i got TWO for 7 bucks. do i win for cheapest brace? |
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