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Just wondering how i can tell if my belt is too tight or to loose, just building the truck and would like to set it right before my first run. thx
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belt setting
I would set it up as tight as possible to where there is no binding or resistance when you roll it without the motor pinion mounted.
It will eventually elongate after its first few inital runs and then you can go ahead and reset the tension. |
Originally Posted by old&slow
(Post 9998693)
I would set it up as tight as possible to where there is no binding or resistance when you roll it without the motor pinion mounted.
It will eventually elongate after its first few inital runs and then you can go ahead and reset the tension. |
Originally Posted by J-RO
(Post 9998744)
If i set it to the sugested tightness in the manual is that setting pretty tight?
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Originally Posted by JayL
(Post 9998255)
lol Doyel we get to race in 4x4 now?I haven't been running VTA, too much offroad :)
I was the fastest AE 4x4 at the big opening race at Holeshot, qual'd 3rd, my basic setup: 32.5 F+R yellow front springs 2.0 sways F&R 30k front diff oil 5k rear diff oil Garodisk as rear slipper pad and AE HD as front slipper pad JC Hazard wheels with gold barcodes ground smooth I have been running a 6.5T 540 can motor with a 13mm rotor be prepared to be hit on the inside rear bumper by many a Losi :) |
I got a crazy question: I just got in a FT shocks for the front and it didnt come with any o-ring so I could do up my shocks emulsion style. Just the bladders why is this? When u can have a chose bewteen the 2 with the stock shocks. So I kinda modified the stock bladders to o-rings and they work 4 me better. :confused:
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
(Post 9998760)
Too tight imo. I suggest using the #4 hle front and rear, until the belt breaks in and stretches.
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Originally Posted by special_k
(Post 9999110)
I got a crazy question: I just got in a FT shocks for the front and it didnt come with any o-ring so I could do up my shocks emulsion style. Just the bladders why is this? When u can have a chose bewteen the 2 with the stock shocks. So I kinda modified the stock bladders to o-rings and they work 4 me better. :confused:
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I need new A-arms for the front and I wood like to know what u guys wood get the stock ones or the RPMs or if there is another op?
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Originally Posted by special_k
(Post 9999218)
I need new A-arms for the front and I wood like to know what u guys wood get the stock ones or the RPMs or if there is another op?
Speaking of which, I just got a replacement a arm from them, i broke one hitting a steel upright going big e buggy style:):lol:. They have good customer service! |
Marcus in the picture of the Ackbar installation on your website is the bar installed backwards ?
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Originally Posted by Dano628
(Post 9999387)
Marcus in the picture of the Ackbar installation on your website is the bar installed backwards ?
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Originally Posted by Resqnu
(Post 9993819)
How do these look? Just want to do good maintenence to prevent wear in other places.
Pic of front diff wear http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...1&d=1323021271 Pic of rear diff wear http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...1&d=1323021280 Also a few pics of my chassis brace. Guy before me made it to keep the belt cover from warping. Seems to keep chassis flex down.
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 9993965)
Resqnu
don't think those parts are gone yet , you can use quite a bit longer ...:nod: If you replaced them with brand new ? Doubt you would notice a improvement in performance.... BTW interesting chassis brace guy Thanks for your help. the belt/chassis brace is made out of Carbon fiber. How many suggest an underbody tray? |
Originally Posted by symmetricon
(Post 9999521)
the instructions have been updated, so what you see know is correct:)
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Originally Posted by special_k
(Post 9999218)
I need new A-arms for the front and I wood like to know what u guys wood get the stock ones or the RPMs or if there is another op?
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