Cain

iTrader: (294)

thats what I ran on primarily. Took a variety of option parts to get it to work competively against the losi's. Tekno was easier to drive.

The biggest thing for me was in air pitch control. never solved that but it looks like a counter gear setup does the trick.

mark in wi

I have a sc10 4x4 that I bought used and race occasionally. Well, a while back I broke the front arm and put it on the shelf for awhile. I got the arm replaced and when test driving outside there was a terrible clicking/grinding sound coming from the truck whenever I made a hard turn or sometimes during hard acceleration. After inspection I think the rear dif needs some work. So I was wondering if there is a quick and easy way to remove and fix the rear dif? I know this sounds bad but I have never worked on a gear dif so if there are any tips to make it easier that would be great too.

Thanks for the help,
Mark

Cain

iTrader: (294)

you most likely need to get the new shims for the rear diff.

Call AE, tell them the issue you are seeing and they should be able to send you out the shims and gears. You'll probably want to do the shimming for the front too. Pay attention to the instructions as the shim that goes between the diff cup and diff case is no longer used with the new thicker shim that goes under the large gear inside the diff.

This will fix the issue.

I would recommend also giving the truck a full teardown so you get used to how its built.

mark in wi

Thanks Cain! I have worked on the front a few times but I havent touched the rear. This is the first time I have had any issues with there dif so I haven't messed with those. I call AE later on today.

G the Menace

iTrader: (71)

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...ff_removal.pdf

buster8787

I'm trying to sell my SC 10 4x4. I broke either diff atleast 4 times each. If there is an easy way to fix one, I never found it. What I did do the last time either broke was I put 3 shims rather than one. Never broke them again. As soon as you hear it pop, it's just a matter of time before it's toast. I liked the truck, but it is (in my opinion) too light to run in our 40mph winds out here on the praries. Now have a Losi.

Sleeper13

I race mine twice a week and have no issues. I did the diff modification adding the 5x10x3 bearing on the outdrives inside the original diff bearing. All the diff problems are from not having enough limiters on the outside of the shaft causing the cva's to hit the outdrives on full compression. Look at the wear marks on the cva's from that. That is the only problem and also keep the belt a little loose and I have found no need for the under drive pulleys.

swaswick23

iTrader: (6)

I have been fortuneate not to have the diff problems that alot people have been having, I solved the shock issues by purchasing losi 8ight shocks right off the bat

swaswick23

iTrader: (6)

Also do you guys prefer saddle pack or stick config

Fixmy59bug

iTrader: (20)

I prefer a shorty turned sideways mounted upfront...

Fastz28

iTrader: (7)

Opps double post.

Fastz28

iTrader: (7)

I run a stick.

Thinking about pinning my inner slipper plate. Can someone that has done it chime in on if its still working good or any issues.
Thanks

swaswick23

iTrader: (6)

i was running saddles til they puffed up pretty bad, ihave a shorty i use on my 2wd durango i will have give it a shot, im a little leary about the amp draw on my rx8

claytrackstar

iTrader: (1)

Run the square battery rather than a shorty if you can. I run the Reedy one and love the way my truck handles with the exotek chassis. nice and stable!

Cain

iTrader: (294)

if you run the shorty you probably need to configure the vehicle to be lightweight. in that form the shorties are run up front.