KODY

You can make the out drive cups fit tight , but then your diff action will suffer .

A little oil leaking is normal , replace the O-ring seals
for a improvement if necessary....

I do have a bit of toe out on my truck also the track always has a bit of lose stuff on it so its a very low traction track I think just adding weight would help out the most to this truck for me, also help me to not be "LOSI'ED" so much.;)

Pointy71: Are the tires you using the hot ticket on your track?

When you say you are using 95% of the setup, is that including linkage positions from Maifields setup, the one here:

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...field_ROAR.pdf

If so on the rear, I personally would lengthen your rear turnbuckle to at least the middle hole on the hub carrier. I actually ran it full length for the conditions out here but middle on the hub since you say you have medium traction may work for you.

I would also try 1 setting lighter on the sway bars front and rear.

Usually with newbies we would configure there vehicle with more toe-in (almost excessively so) so it would track straighter down the, well, straights.

Here is what the Hudy offroad book says about Front Toe settings:

FRONT TOE
Increasing (more toe-in) • Makes car easier to drive

Decreasing
(less toe-in, or more
toe-out)
• Decreases understeer
• Increases steering at corner entry
• Faster steering response
• Less stable under acceleration
• Makes car more diffi cult to drive

I would think as you accelerate down the straight, you would want it to be more stable which according to the manual is opposite of what you would see by adding in toe out.

I posted an image of a setup i used for our very low traction stuff out here. You may find it to be useful for you. If you can't find it, let me know.

bear in mind, it uses the M2C toe in blocks, RC Shox pistons, and Center Diff. The item I would think at a minimum you will want is the M2C toe in blocks as that will give you the rear traction you need in my opinion, or something else that addes more toe in to the rear than stock 3 degrees.

Try to ignore the negativity !!!


Fact is the Sc10 is the Roar National Champion after all is said .:tire:


The Lrp Flow or the SXX V2 performs great in a 4x4 SC truck , just remember to use the fan included .
Performs better then any and stays very cool ...

Cain , good news ,you just
learned toe out improves tracking & stability on the straights ....

Welp, time for me to move on and put my SC10 4x4 up for sale. I plan to keep reading/posting/helping in this thread as I really enjoyed my truck, but with my converted SCT dialed in and an official Caster SCT in the mail for testing I need the electronics from my SC10.

I know you will be back soon .....


Lots of stuff coming .....;)

A bit yes, but a diff-filling per day no! :( The worst is: i can't test it more than 1 day, because the race is this week. My only chance is to use the bearings with metal-seals from the idler-gear. Even the diffs without bearingmod from a friend dont leak as much as mine.

I ended up experimenting with grease instead of fluid for a while to minimize maintenance and it worked remarkably well. In the rear I would run the diff 2/3 filled with AE black grease and the front diff was also 2/3 full, but a 50/50 mix of racers edge heavy duty diff grease and AE black grease. This made the car feel very close to 10k/5k front/rear and it would never leak. You don't want to pack the diff full, or it can lock up. Just enough so that the centripital force keeps the spider gears mostly submerged. This was with the center diff, so if you are running the standard slipper you might fare well with straight up Racers Edge grease in the front to get close to a 30k feel.

Unfortunately WC, looks like its opposite day by you, unless you mean give your truck less toe out versus a little toe out as you said, you will not improve tracking / stability on the straights.

Or, as has been described here:

http://www.competitionx.com/rc-racin...oe-in-toe-out/

I am assuming that wander is NOT the effect that the OP desires which "giving your truck a little toe-out" will induce.

But regardless, for those curious which way to go if you feel both of us and the various guides on the net are full of it, give it a try both ways and report back ... Best way to confirm which is right is to give it a try and see.

Sorry to see you go Krio. You still going to be selling SC10 4x4 parts?

Cody - When you do your rebuild, are you using the black grease or similar around places where the oil can leak?

Cain , from experience I know .....

Good luck , BTW at your track the straight is not fast or long enough to even add toe out....

There is silicone diff greas you can buy rather than using black grease. It's good stuff

m2c
 

Hey just a quick question about the m2c block. What is the minimum and max toe amounts possible And by what increments can you adjust by?

I use greenslime on the red o-rings, AE black-grease on metal-parts like the outdrive and the bearings and hylomar on the paper-sealing. (it's kind of a sealant, you can see it on the pics. http://www.hylomar.com/) I also have the white diff lube from AE, but i think it's for ball-diffs, isn't it?

Same here WC and I am assuming from experience those guides were written as such as well ... and just an FYI my experience concerning the toe-in / out setting comes from tracks small (50ft or less) and up to around 200+ or more ft straights with a variety of vehicles from tracks out east as well as here.

So unless the SC10 4x4 suddenly responds totally different to general toe settings, all else being the same, that other 2wd, 4wd, etc 1/10 thru 1/8 vehicles, (which, from the rear toe in perspective, has behaved as I would expect on the track based on what a variety of guides say when using the M2C blocks) should work out essentially the same.

But, again, for those on the fence on what to believe, give it a try and report back. Nothing wrong with coming to your own conclusions and its something free to check.