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-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

SC Shaun 09-09-2012 02:56 PM


Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 (Post 11190907)
Maybe we should disconnect the shocks from the arms to prevent the warping.

Others like Craig and myself have been doing that since we got the truck back in may last year. It seems to help but the warping is really happening on the track, not sitting on your bench.

Cain 09-09-2012 03:11 PM


Originally Posted by robale (Post 11190310)
Thanks Cain, this info just solved my problem. I order the diff shim kit yesterday. will have by Wednesday.

cool. which info was that ? LOL


Originally Posted by murky123 (Post 11190855)
had a great day today, won the A-main with nothing but Losi's behind me.

awesome!


Just an FYI to anyone who wants an actual setup sheet filled out with what I went with, just pm me your email address. Hope it can help someone in similar conditions.

RCJesus 09-09-2012 06:19 PM

Can any one tell me if the hobbywing SCT pro Xerun esc fits this chassis in the normal spot?

also if standard Intellect 2cell 6200mah corrally tube style packs fit in and you can get to the connectors?

thanks

btown 09-09-2012 07:08 PM

I am getting a 5150kv the viper system i have not run a 4x4 sct yet where would i start with the gearing. any help would be great

mHOUPS 09-09-2012 08:33 PM


Originally Posted by tom2tone (Post 11190176)
I'm enjoying the topic of adding weights again..

Are any of you that are running saddle packs, adding weight to your truck? I just ordered the FT upgrade kit from Amain. Plus it seems to be an issue installing an rx8, are there any tips for me?

Thanks!

You can trim the cage on the RX8 and use the outside screws (2) to keep the fan in place and the belt "rail" will fit right in there with just enough clearance for the fan.

**whatever you do, do not run the truck without the belt guard/cover! Dirt + rotating parts = nothing good**

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...rahy/right.jpg

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...ograhy/top.jpg

ryanpatrickgore 09-09-2012 08:44 PM

Truck is finally done. And its looking very good! Took me all day while watching my 4month old. Long day.
One thing I noticed is the front diff shims are perfect...(stock)
The rear diff is now shimmed perfectly with both the .5 that ae mailed me. (finally installed)
I previously had two @ .2 on each side, thanks to WC. That was a good MacGyver at the end of an evening!


2 dudes at my track have been running it without the belt cover for months now... indoor clay

turners dad 09-09-2012 08:57 PM


Originally Posted by fq06 (Post 11121957)
what is the center diff? is it the slipper setup.
Center ball diff. Great but not necessary... depending on your taste I guess. What is it explanation here http://www.rctech.net/forum/10015740-post6.html

what is the 8mm mod?
Drive the truck for now and get used to it while you catch up on reading this thread to see if 8mm mod would help you. You should be reading within the past month or two, use search in this thread or google's probably better than rctech search.

how should i set the stock slipper clutch? set it on the ground and hit the throtal, watch the front end to see how much it raises?
At least get the garodisks from RCshox for the old school two pad slipper for now if not the C-Diff. Adjust to where you slip for the first few feet @ full throttle on the track you are at... traction control. Start with manual suggested slipper nut setting and adjust from there for the traction at your track.

Shim rear diff...
Do you have a few shock limiter clips under the rubber bumper on the shock shafts? You need them. 8mm total including rubber bumper.
Call AE and they will mail thicker diff shims at no cost. I think .3 thick is correct, but the .5 AE ones cost $0 to your door and one minute on the phone.

thanks fq06, have been reading and putting full effort into this truck and just realized i never told you thanks for all the thought you put into your reply.

we race on three outdoor tracks in the area so it is a handfull being new to 4x4 and trying to get it right for 3 diff size tracks.

one is small like indoor but dusty,

2nd is med sized and hard but dusty some what bumpy

the 3rd is a large clay based great grip and fast. this track they race 1/5 scale trucks on, boy that gives me room to gather up most mistakes...lol

but again i just wanted to say thanks for the input

turners dad 09-09-2012 09:50 PM


Originally Posted by mHOUPS (Post 11192398)
You can trim the cage on the RX8 and use the outside screws (2) to keep the fan in place and the belt "rail" will fit right in there with just enough clearance for the fan.

**whatever you do, do not run the truck without the belt guard/cover! Dirt + rotating parts = nothing good**

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...rahy/right.jpg

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...ograhy/top.jpg

thumbs up for a clean install, looks awesome

xDIRTYx 09-09-2012 10:21 PM


Originally Posted by fq06 (Post 11186214)
Drive it first and check temps, you should be correct where your at. You will run cooler on dirt than on grass. Your esc temp will probably come down and your motor temp is cool for 10 min.

Takes 5 min to change pinion so you can change at the track if needed but I don't think you will.

So i finally made it out to the track for some testing. I learned a few things and had a couple guys willing to help me out and explain some stuff to me. First thing I did was put a full pack thru it and checked temps all around. The 13 i had in it seemed to run a bit hot and the motor came off at 170, so i went in and got a 12. With the smaller pinion heres what i got:

Motor: 150
ESC: 110
Lipo: 100

I think im pretty happy with that and will prob keep it that way. Another guy there had almost the same combo i do except he has a small fan on the motor and his temps never break 130 on the motor. Something I may try in the future.

I also figured out that I have the rcshox ball diff v2, with 6 pins installed. Im going to have to order some more because 6 is all i have. Also the front clicker had a piece in there that replaced the spring and completely locked it in. Someone at the track was nice enough to give me a spare spring to try. Im not sure which I liked better haha

The truck overall seemed ok, it pushed a ton and would hardly steer. I would have to be almost complete off the throttle just to get it around, or id have to steer with the rear. I would like to bring some steering back into it.

The olnly other issue I came across is that the diff is still making a ton of noise, sounds to me like the diff gears skipping the teeth of the sun gears. Im going to tear it down this week and check the shims. I got a few recomendations as far as what diff oil to use. Seems like the couple guys i talked to at the track said to go with 7k rear 20k front.

sorry for the novel :sweat: Any help or imput is greeeaatttlllyyyy appreciated!

kdub 09-09-2012 10:40 PM


Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 11167774)
Pretty sure I will have to use the Ae rear drive plate with , but otherwise will be using soon .:deathstar( AVID 87T spur & Robinson pinion)

Already used a AVID slipper for a few runs with my B4



Will order my AVIDs later this week...

And of course ...
Will tell everyone about how they performed for me after I get ....:D

The Triad is designed for 10th scale 2wd, 4wd, and SC10. It doesn't fit onto the SC10 4x4 due to the inner drive pulley/hub design. To get it to work you'd have to lathe down the inner pulley drive hub to 18.5mm. We haven't even tested it to be honest.

The 4wd SC and 550 motors requires a different setup than the Triad to be optimized....the VTS4 was designed for the 4x4 and you should run it. We did design the Triad for SC10 and it works great on my truck and makes it feel more planted and less wheel spin!

SC Shaun 09-09-2012 10:50 PM


Originally Posted by kdub (Post 11192727)
The Triad is designed for 10th scale 2wd, 4wd, and SC10. It doesn't fit onto the SC10 4x4 due to the inner drive pulley/hub design. To get it to work you'd have to lathe down the inner pulley drive hub to 18.5mm. We haven't even tested it to be honest.

The 4wd SC and 550 motors requires a different setup than the Triad to be optimized....the VTS4 was designed for the 4x4 and you should run it. We did design the Triad for SC10 and it works great on my truck and makes it feel more planted and less wheel spin!

I didn't think they would work, but we were just amazed he wasn't blabbering about AE's superiority. ;) I Ordered two (b4,sc10) eariler today. Next will be springs.

We need SC10 4x4 Springs from you guys! <3

RCJesus 09-09-2012 11:56 PM

Was getting the factory team edition of this truck, with the stock 32p spur what pinion would be a good starting point to order for a medium track with a 4 pole 4000kv 540 motor on 2 cell

SCTDan 09-10-2012 01:09 AM


Originally Posted by xDIRTYx (Post 11192676)
So i finally made it out to the track for some testing. I learned a few things and had a couple guys willing to help me out and explain some stuff to me. First thing I did was put a full pack thru it and checked temps all around. The 13 i had in it seemed to run a bit hot and the motor came off at 170, so i went in and got a 12. With the smaller pinion heres what i got:

Motor: 150
ESC: 110
Lipo: 100

I think im pretty happy with that and will prob keep it that way. Another guy there had almost the same combo i do except he has a small fan on the motor and his temps never break 130 on the motor. Something I may try in the future.

I also figured out that I have the rcshox ball diff v2, with 6 pins installed. Im going to have to order some more because 6 is all i have. Also the front clicker had a piece in there that replaced the spring and completely locked it in. Someone at the track was nice enough to give me a spare spring to try. Im not sure which I liked better haha

The truck overall seemed ok, it pushed a ton and would hardly steer. I would have to be almost complete off the throttle just to get it around, or id have to steer with the rear. I would like to bring some steering back into it.

The olnly other issue I came across is that the diff is still making a ton of noise, sounds to me like the diff gears skipping the teeth of the sun gears. Im going to tear it down this week and check the shims. I got a few recomendations as far as what diff oil to use. Seems like the couple guys i talked to at the track said to go with 7k rear 20k front.

sorry for the novel :sweat: Any help or imput is greeeaatttlllyyyy appreciated!

I would suggest 7k or 5k front and 5k rear with the c-diff. 20k works best with the slipper. Try going with fewer pins in the diff to see if it helps the push. I ran 5 pins in mine on a hard pack blue groove track and it worked well. The lighter front diff fluid may help the most.

Cain 09-10-2012 05:55 AM


Originally Posted by RCJesus (Post 11192847)
Was getting the factory team edition of this truck, with the stock 32p spur what pinion would be a good starting point to order for a medium track with a 4 pole 4000kv 540 motor on 2 cell

manual starting setting isn't bad at all.


Originally Posted by SCTDan (Post 11192937)
I would suggest 7k or 5k front and 5k rear with the c-diff. 20k works best with the slipper. Try going with fewer pins in the diff to see if it helps the push. I ran 5 pins in mine on a hard pack blue groove track and it worked well. The lighter front diff fluid may help the most.

+1 7K really helps with steering.

fq06 09-10-2012 06:13 AM

Dan & Cain, right on the money with the diff fluid. I run 5/5 with the C-Diff.

Dirty, do yourself a HUGE favor and have new gears for the diff when you pull it apart to shim it or you will more than likely be doing it a second time.

Order a couple 62 tooth spur gears from RcShox for spares along with the pins. You will more than likely end up running 6 pins once you drop the oil weight in the diff, but those wear so good to get some freshies.

Absolutely the first tuning change though is 5k front fluid.

On the temps, if you ask tekin they will tell you that you are geared correctly based on temps. I prefer 160, but I am not running the pro4. Add a fan with the 13 and your at 160 with more torque out of the motor and top end than the 12.
I come off at 150 after a heat but 180 during practice if I drive for more than 10 min.


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