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Old 07-30-2012 | 09:01 PM
  #27541  
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I am looking for a setup... so far I HATE the way it drives.. I have the center diff (the first gen) spring kits and exotek and b44 saddle pack conversion. I really think it has alot to do with my diff oils.. what diff oils should I be running with the center diff? what pistons and shock oils?

I feel like the truck is on ice. I cant be hard on the gas at all and its very twitchy. I can wheel my xxx-sct around the track 10x faster and its really fustrating. I run at a medium size indoor hard packed track.

I understand you guys on here have your trucks practically DIALED so any help is GREATLY appreciated! should I buy the factory team upgrade kit?
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Old 07-30-2012 | 09:16 PM
  #27542  
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Originally Posted by nickfin91
I am looking for a setup... so far I HATE the way it drives.. I have the center diff (the first gen) spring kits and exotek and b44 saddle pack conversion. I really think it has alot to do with my diff oils.. what diff oils should I be running with the center diff? what pistons and shock oils?

I feel like the truck is on ice. I cant be hard on the gas at all and its very twitchy. I can wheel my xxx-sct around the track 10x faster and its really fustrating. I run at a medium size indoor hard packed track.

I understand you guys on here have your trucks practically DIALED so any help is GREATLY appreciated! should I buy the factory team upgrade kit?
heavier front diff oil will help. im running 30k up front and 3k in the back. im not running a center diff though so i can not tell you how it will act with your set up. i know folks with the center diff are lower then others with out.

look up mantis works set up. i know he put it on here or al ink to it and he is the person who makes the diff.
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Old 07-30-2012 | 09:44 PM
  #27543  
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I'm running 10k front and 7k rear. I'd like a little more steering but I love how planted the thing is. I'm not fighting for steering anywhere. The base of my setup is Hartsons spring indoor nationals setup. I have made a few small changes but this one seems very predictable, a little twitch but in a good way, but really planted.
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Old 07-30-2012 | 09:51 PM
  #27544  
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Originally Posted by twisted
hmmmm things to ponder.
Don't get all caught up with the timing thing , my experience ?


more timing if the motor is slow and trying to make more top speed.

or

more timing =more top speed, less torque and less wheel


leave timing alone for most part & just use higher or lower pinion recommended...

scott

Move rear shock inside on tower
or
blue rear spring
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Old 07-30-2012 | 10:44 PM
  #27545  
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Originally Posted by 9turn
i know i am new to this forum but i have been reading from post 1400 untell now and i see a lot of people having truble tuning there trucks i have spent the last 2 mounths diving every day at 2 tracks in san antonio every time i dive i chang some thing and the truck for the most part is on ralls many of the setups on here are grate plase to start but there is one ajustment you all fall to us and that is an up travel limit in the front 2mm this truck has a lot of travel and that is y people see it work beter with other brand shocks they are shorter
the setup
steering rack standerd
bump 0
career 2mm
arm outer hole
tower mid hole
spring yellow
bar 2.2 yellow
sink long tower 2mm
polly 19 overdrive
tentioner #5 hole
foll time 4x4
front 25w piston 1.3 with 2stage mod and 2holes drilled out 1/16
2mm rebound limit 6mm up
rear 20w same piston
0 rebound 4mm up
bar 2.0 blue
spring f blue
8mm mod mid holl
tower 2mm, long link
arm outer hole
tower mid
polly standerd 20
standerd sliper 2.5mm(new nut any time it gets to hot
tention #2
wheel base long
3-2
ride h 21mm
battery stick
3oz next to servo(not needed for good handeling )
rx8 4600 14t-62 amp limit 65% push 7% timing min 5'(4700uf cap)
savox sc-1256tg(4400 cap)
camber 1.5 all
tires callibers fole tred
diffs 30k-7k
this will work on hard packed it it has to much steering move the front shock out one on the tower
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Old 07-30-2012 | 11:24 PM
  #27546  
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I did what I said I wasn't going to do, and bought an Exotek chassis.

For my Hotbodies sedan.
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Old 07-31-2012 | 01:06 AM
  #27547  
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Originally Posted by nickfin91
I am looking for a setup... so far I HATE the way it drives.. I have the center diff (the first gen) spring kits and exotek and b44 saddle pack conversion. I really think it has alot to do with my diff oils.. what diff oils should I be running with the center diff? what pistons and shock oils?

I feel like the truck is on ice. I cant be hard on the gas at all and its very twitchy. I can wheel my xxx-sct around the track 10x faster and its really fustrating. I run at a medium size indoor hard packed track.

I understand you guys on here have your trucks practically DIALED so any help is GREATLY appreciated! should I buy the factory team upgrade kit?
i feel your pain bro.. very frustrating.. try 30k in the front and 5k in the rear or even maybe 7k.. helped my truck out big time.. super loose in the rear.. also try front springs in the rear.. that could help
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Old 07-31-2012 | 05:02 AM
  #27548  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
I did what I said I wasn't going to do, and bought an Exotek chassis.

For my Hotbodies sedan.
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Old 07-31-2012 | 06:20 AM
  #27549  
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Oh and one Q.
How do I make the chassis roll less without going up in sway bars or changing shocks?
Thanks!
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Old 07-31-2012 | 06:28 AM
  #27550  
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
Oh and one Q.
How do I make the chassis roll less without going up in sway bars or changing shocks?
Thanks!
Shorter camber links, and play with the hub positioning. I think the further you go towards the outside the less roll.
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Old 07-31-2012 | 06:59 AM
  #27551  
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
I have been boosting my Pro4 4k for over a year now with no issues and on many different ESC's. IMO when they tell you not to use timing its static timing that can cause issues, if you ramp timing up higher in the power band you are fine.
That is what I have heard the Speed Passion guys are doing as well, running the latest stock software it appears that has all the super charger stuff and using it for the top end.

Based on what I saw at my race when I went up in pinion size for speed, I may actually go back down and give that a try instead on my Pro4 4000Kv motor.

Originally Posted by Blitzrockey
The BH is very close to the hw I run I use about 12 degrees of boost timing with my hw 4 pole 4000kv, and down the stright I will pull my buddys rx8 pro-4 4600 with no timing. I start the boost timing at 8000 rpm and it will ramp up as you apply the throttle this works beauty.
Good info, will give that starting RPM a look!
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Old 07-31-2012 | 08:01 AM
  #27552  
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
Oh and one Q.
How do I make the chassis roll less without going up in sway bars or changing shocks?
Thanks!
Add spacers under the inner ball stud to change the roll center.
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Old 07-31-2012 | 08:06 AM
  #27553  
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I have 3mm under the front. Should I add more?
Back has nothing but I have the parts for the 8mm mod. That should help right?
Trying to avoid traction rolling on medium/high traction track.
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Old 07-31-2012 | 08:31 AM
  #27554  
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
I have 3mm under the front. Should I add more?
Back has nothing but I have the parts for the 8mm mod. That should help right?
Trying to avoid traction rolling on medium/high traction track.
I'd put the 8mm stuff on first.
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Old 07-31-2012 | 08:37 AM
  #27555  
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Okay thanks!
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