Where did you get these steel ones?

I also am running the FT and started running with the front blues in the rear from the get go. I know it's been working for almost everyone here, however, the last time at the track a switched everything to the FT setup and have to say it all made an improvement. I ran with my best friend who had a very tricked out sc10 4x4 so we were able to make comparisons between the two. After the track day, he bought the FT. After switching back to the stock FT setup, it was hooking up great. Well, off to race for the first time today and going to try the new v2 center diff.

A shop here in germany.. but you should be able to find 10.9 or 12.9 hardened steel screws on ebay for example.

If you trim the corner of the radio tray, it will fit where the receiver box is supposed to go



Damn Goat beat me to it!!!!!

Tried telling ya, Im faster than you!!

Does any one have the front clicker part they would be willing to sell? Just the part that keys onto the shaft and presses against the pulley. I lost mine and don't want to shell out the $12 for the entire pulley/tensioner system.

By blocking off the entire cab portion of the body..Maybe it's hard to tell from the pic but the tape runs pretty flat from the hood to the tail section. If air going up in the cab causes parachuting, why not block off the cab? the air can only go flat under the body now(i cut the front lip off the body a long time ago, i won't be doing that to future bodies). It looks a little hack, but meh, it's just tape. I have a better question, why wouldn't it help?

Cause you still end up with a large surface that will not let air through and will have a major braking effect. The issue is not the cab part, but that the air can't escape quickly.

nevermind found it! Darn playmobil

I run the blue rear front springs in the rear for a couple reasons. First is I run the renshock 550 4 pole motor which is a little heavier than my CC 1410. Second is I wanted more on power steering. The stiffer springs limit the weight transfer better when accelerating through a turn. One of those things that may or may not work for your setup. You don't know until you try. One bonus was better attitude in the air when jumping and being able to go with a lighter sway bar in the rear.

You might like the white or green short springs more on the rear. My current set up is shorty white rear/ blue front. The reason for the front spring on the rear is a more progressive stiffer rear spring. Not for everyone but it ballances the chassis better on the ground. I never have had jumping issues with the FT set up either. The springs will help keep weight on the front under acceleration and stop three wheel wheelies coming out of corners (inside front off the ground). The idea is for the chassis to ballance out the wheel weight as quick as possible for maxium traction. We could run big rear sway bars but then lose some of the suspension action for off road. Try the white springs again with the center diff. The center ballances power better front to rear over the slipper and works even better when the running the short rear springs.

There is no front or rear lip on my SC body, so it's flat underneath..no more spot for air to catch. Think of it like an upside down bowl..I see the skepticism because it's a new idea, but i see no reason it wouldn't work. The air will go out the back of the body much easier than it did before

Had guys using the new Ae VTS slipper on their Mod 2w last night , just showing how good the new Ae slipper performs , all for $17 ....

Hmm never thought about doing something like that, I may try it out on my T4..........

i have a rc shox pad on the in side with with the new ae slipper on the out side set up nice.