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Old 04-11-2012, 05:41 PM
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Got a new body done up...


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Old 04-11-2012, 05:43 PM
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That is one nice paint job!
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Old 04-11-2012, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
That is one nice paint job!
Thanks, I wish I could paint that good but it's just a vinyl graphic kit.
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Old 04-11-2012, 05:49 PM
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lol I was fooled.
I just finished painting a new raptor for mine.
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Old 04-11-2012, 05:51 PM
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Some more...



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Old 04-11-2012, 06:03 PM
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On the fence about sticking with the new ft Vts4 slipper (or mtk clutch basket) vs the center ball diff. I love my ball diff in my sc10. Any experiences with both? Thanks!
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Old 04-11-2012, 06:19 PM
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here is their international shipping site

http://www.amainhobbies.com/informat...ional-Shipping
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Old 04-11-2012, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
I run a standard 540 motor and I have used them from day one. The power delivery feels smoother with them. Also alowes me to play around with the FDR a little finer than 32p will give me.

I think I drive Marcus nuts because he has to machine them special for me for the v2 center diff. but I will pay him back with wins.
I've also used the 48p from day one. No issues. Running Castle 1410 4 pole.

Cameron, what wind motor have you settled on? I'm thinking of trying a sensored 540 2-pole setup. Maybe a 6.5/7.5 with torque rotor? Just not sure.
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Old 04-11-2012, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA

On a slippery track, having more weight bias forward will help.
What would be different? More steering? More side bite? More stability?
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Old 04-11-2012, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
Thanks for the props, but those aren't mine (I just found a picture, Chris J. at AE has all my junk ones.), and I can get a set of arms to look like that in a single race day if I practice a lot.

BTW, I wrote the arms would last longer indoor because the speeds are lower. Either way they are going to warp; the only questions are 1) does it happen or 2) how fast, or 3) is there anything we can do to slow it down?
Those were mine. They were the original fronts. I've only replaced them once. The second set don't seem to be warped, or atleast not as bad as the stockers.

What would be some symptoms of the warped arm syndrome?
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Old 04-11-2012, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
What would be different? More steering? More side bite? More stability?
More static weight on the front end would give it more on power (forward) bite because the front has more mechanical grip. More front weight will also give more steering in a steady state turn (like a big sweeper or a skid pad).

If the grip is up, you don't need the bite (because, duh, it's 4wd and you have bite) and having the weight biased more to the rear will have more weight available to transfer, which will make the truck turn in harder.

This is why I say the SC10 has an edge on tracks where the grip is up, the turn in and bite off harder. The trade off is they aren't real awesome if you are running on a low grip, concrete hard surface with a sandy dust on top. Kind of like Cactus, where the turn marshals had to broom off the whole track every three or so heats.

Originally Posted by Vegatron75
Those were mine. They were the original fronts. I've only replaced them once. The second set don't seem to be warped, or atleast not as bad as the stockers.

What would be some symptoms of the warped arm syndrome?
Mine start squeeking when you cycle the suspension in the pits. With the scales, I can tell almost immediately because the cross weight will change.

The only way to tell for sure is to take them off and check them with a straight edge. It should line up perfectly straight between the hinge pins and the sway bar screw hole.

The way I check them (the straight edge is hard to do) is put a hinge pin in them, and then turn the arm so the hinge pin can fall out. If the pin sticks, the arm is warped and it gets junked.

If other users would like to chime in, I'd love to hear it. I have tried and tried to spot them warped on the truck, where they bend it's difficult to see it because the arm is obstructed by the chassis.

Last edited by CraigMBA; 04-11-2012 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 04-11-2012, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by sugs
I've also used the 48p from day one. No issues. Running Castle 1410 4 pole.

Cameron, what wind motor have you settled on? I'm thinking of trying a sensored 540 2-pole setup. Maybe a 6.5/7.5 with torque rotor? Just not sure.
I am very lucky to race for Murfdogg motor works. We have done a lot of testing and I like running his blue 5.5 motor with a 12.5 rotor. I do have a black 6.5 that i like too but i like the pop the 5.5 has. There is way more to a motor design than just putting a big rotor in it for SC. I have learned some about motors from Matt and he knows tons about brushless motors and especially his motors. I don't work on the motors I just runs what he sends me. My job is to race them he builds them. I will say that I have been out driven and out handled but never out motored.
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:03 PM
  #21253  
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Default RPM Supension Arms

Checked a set out today and they are way stiffer than the factory arms .

Putting a set on me ride tomorrow along with the new V2 slipper & upgrade kit...

Can only imagine a better handling ride with the RPM as they will not be flexing near as much in the corner's....
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:21 PM
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how much power can the belt take
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Old 04-11-2012, 09:14 PM
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I just finished my FT kit and (I'm a newb )...I assembled it with all of the included parts and fluids...so I have the 30k in the front differential....would that cause a$$ loose off throttle? ....I'm running on a dusty smooth mid grip track...I'm also running blue front sway bar and orange rear...just like the manual said....but I know it isn't the proper set up for my track.....please help....and if possible I'm a newb so if u cud dumb it down!!!!!! Thanks!
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